GarryC

Agreed, just drain what you can and you will be fine. The lock to lock method seems to work well

Ha ha, good point. Always nice to give back to the community I find. Leaves me feeling all fluffy and warm. Actually... a bit like a good drink

Hi YellowCar, Thanks for your assistance on this. I have found the thread (HERE) and after reading the comments, it seems this is indeed my issue. Will whip the door cards off, and have a look at the connector, to clean it all up and see if I can get it working again. Kind Regards Garry

Sorry to jump in here as a bit of a hijack but I think I am suffering a similar problem and hope you guys could point me in the right direction: Using the central locking key fob, ONLY the 2 offside doors open, the nearside ones do not. They open okay from the inside (pull the door handle) but not on the central locking. This isn't a side of the car issue and its intermittent and sometimes one will randomly work, but most of the time they do not. What do we think the cause is, and what is the best way to fix this? Thanks in advance for any guidance. Kind Regards Garry

Morning Gizmo, Folkestone is good for me, I am based in Ashford so nice and convenient. When and where is good time to meet up, and how many bags of jelly babies or other payment would you like Good to see many familiar names here from when I was more often on this board, good times. Kind Regards Garry

Morning all, Is there a friendly vag com owner in Kent who would be willing to meet up and enable cruise control on my MK1 Octavia VRS. I have the stalk now can can fit that, just need it enabled please. Happy to pay in cash, beer, sweets, freedom membership or buttons Thanks in advance Garry

This appears to be quite the common issue :( My door is also locked and wont open, you can hear stuff moving inside but it just doesnt lock, almost like its jammed inside. I shall keep an eye on this to see if anyone is able to fix it

Hi, do you have the engine sump avaliable? Managed to crack mine at the weekend. Whoops...

Thanks Buddy I shall keep you posted on your order

Bodge You are correct in what you say. They have ceased trading and started again but at a new factory

Thats right, the B8s have shortened rods for cars with more of a drop. As Bilstein make specific shocks for the VRS they will be designed for the lowered height of the VRS. As you are only dropping it around 15-20 mm i would use the B6 as they will offer a more comfortable ride compared to the shorter (and stiffer) B8s. I hope it helps but im sure it has just added to your confusion

Bilstein shocks are very very good shocks. The B8s are designed for quite low cars though, so i would suggest the B6 shocks instead

Quite a mix then I would suggest the H&R ones then buddy if your budget can stretch. If it cant then the V-Maxx will be a nice safe bet, espeically as you have a local supplier.

Whats your budget? H&R are my personal choice (i have their coilovers on my car). I find they are soft enough to be comfy, yet firm enough to be sporty, a nice all round package. A friend has a set of Bilstein B16 coilovers on his MK4 Golf and they are awesome on track days, but on the road i find them to stiff and crashy. As you dont do too many track days i would avoid the Bilsteins. Thats just my experience of these 2 brands I guess it depends on your budget, in the UK H&R are over 2 times the cost of V-Maxx, and Bilstein more like 4 times the cost. What are the roads like in NZ?

I have this problem also sometimes when cold :( But i dont have a secondary air pump, and my throttle body is clean Most odd but i have learn to live with it till it warms up

Rob, im a supplier of both of these products and i do have more than a fair share of problems and comments of "not as good as i expected" from the Koni buyers. The V-Maxx dont sell as many but i have yet to have a problem or negative comment made about them to me (Actually thats a lie, one guy did say the rear didnt go low enough for him). I would choose the V-Maxx for the peace of mind of a local supplier and general good all round reviews combined with value for money Just my 2pence tho

I just took mine off There is a guide on here how to do it Whoop Whoop

Sadly it just seems to be the case with cheap discs. They are cheaper for a reason :( No such thng as a bargain these days, you always pay the price one way or another. EBC have good reviews and i sell thousands of discs a year with very very few warranty problems. Most are normally customer error or incorrect ussage. As far as the pads are concerned i would use the Red Stuff for road and light track use, and only go to the Yellows if you drive like a crazed man everywhere and do alot of track days I use the Ferodo DS2500 pads for the road, and have sets of the DS3000 pads for when i do track days but sadly these are not the cheapest pads around :(

lol. I was waiting for someone to say that I had to undertake it, was so slow round the bends, It was a sleeper though and quick in a striaght line, had a throttle bodied 2.0 Zetec in the front. Nice install it was. In fact during the whole day i only had one car really suprise me, and that was a Citroen AX that had a VTR (8v) engine inside. Was so quick yet properly bodged together car. Was great fun to watch it on track I have a few videos of this session from my GoPro Camera (you can see it mounted on the passenger door) so will upload that shortly also to prove i wasnt done by a Ford, lol.

Cheers Steve I used the Goodridge kit for the MK4 Golf. IT all fitted perfectly except the 4 points that the flexible lines connect to the hard lines. The ends pass through brackets that hold them in place and these need to be enlarged to suit the Goodridge fittings. This isnt a problem and only added around 20 - 30 minutes onto the fitment time A very worthwhile mod Cheers Rob Thanks Buddy

I have the same system. Love it. Nice and subtle when just cruising yet sporty when your "in the mood" A real nice balance. I did have the Milltek Resonated on the car before this one but it was just too quiet, no different to standard really :( Thats no fun. I see they are on offer over at Motorsport World at the moment: System (assume twin tail but others avaliable = £296.10 (SYSTEM) Downpipe and sports cat = £370.13 (DOWNPIPE) Hope that helps

How do Luca Much the same really. Last bits i did were: Fully polybush the car again Braided brake lines Tarox Brake Fluid Ferodo DS2500 pads all round Removed all the Secondary air system and a load of hoses from the engine bay Changed two coilpacks (both went on the same day last Friday, most odd) New Stereo throughout (Alpine Type R components, Alpine head unit for my iPhone and Alpine Amp in boot powering it all) Thats about it really. The front tyres are getting low so will change them soon. I still have the FMIC to fit but just havent got round to it yet. It still runs silky smooth and pulls well. I didnt have any troubles on my recent track days with heat soak, i think its more an issue at lower speeds (on public roads) as the flow will be that much less that constant high speed use on track. Hows about you? You sort those spacers out okay?

Its been a while since i posted on the forum so thought i would make a thread with some recent pics i took of it. My car is still the same. We still never drive it so it just gets used ocasionally for trips away and track days really. I still love it and have no plans to get fid of him. (despite recently taking an R8 for a test drive). Its such a good all round car. Cant moan So heres some pictures of Tyronne Taken at RAF Marham Taken at Lydden Hill International Raceway Not overly exciting but enough reason to post something and remind people i havent forgotten about this forum. So hos is everyone else on this fine Friday afternoon? Garry

Nice to hear your latest updates Billy. Shame its not all good news but nice to see the car is still to a high standard

Yep works a treat Done mine twice now. Ive had the car about 3/4 years now. Comes up like new and lasts 12/18 months Keep meaning to get them colour coded but just never got round to it. Hope that helps