16csvt

Power and willingness restored! In case the link to the picture of the timing marks breaks at some time in the future, here is one I prepared a short time ago. The mark on the sprocket was originally a tiny rectangular dint, roughly the size of the light mark. Notice that it had originally been picked out in BLACK! One could just about see it with a mirror from above if one knew it was there somewhere. The triangle mark on the tool (now blobbed white) was hidden by the removal knob, now removed itself. Once again, many thanks to those who responded.

This time I put the peg in the cam and put paint dabs where the timing tabs are and on the backpeice. Armed with the knowledge of the little mark on the sprocket, I've knocked the crank pulley off, used the correct tool (choice 2) with the correct corresponding mark very near the peg (per photo) and lo and behold, cam is one whole tooth retarded w.r.t. crank. Easy done. (My excuse anyway). It's easy when you know how, innit. I shall be on with it, and report back the outcome. Many thanks for the replies so far. This Torsion Angle malarky looks interesting, but thats a job for when the mechanicals are in the right place. 16csvt

Last things first. Reset timing. No, have been meaning to get a vcds but somehow have never got a round tuit. Had this vain hope that if mechanically it went back together at the same timing as it came off then it oughtn't to need change. Teeth counting. I confess I am not up on this technique. Have you a link to the detail so I ( and prob others in the future) can see the method? I hadn't counted before, so it is probably pointless to count now? In the past I've been fortunate to have engines with a peg through the block into the flywheel and a pegged cam (similar to this one). Regards 16csvt

This was starting and running fine before I broke it. Following routine cambelt /idlers/pump change, it is very difficult to start, and lacks power. At idle, when the fan kicks in, it almost stalls. Having tried to take the usual greatest care regarding locking off cam and crank, I am not totally convinced the belt timing is awry. Before starting, I took the precaution of turning it over with a spanner 4 crank turns, two complete cycles and nothing touched. I am a diesel bloke of the 'Old school', and have just had a very steep learning curve for the PD type fuel systems. I was convinced from the sounds at starting that there is / was air in the system somewhere, it would start with coughing and knocking, then clean up to an idle. Although it will rev to well up the gauge, it is sluggish and lacks the previous 'willingness'. I have introduced a transparent piece to the tandem pump return pipe, and although I have seen a couple of tiny tiny bubbles, there was nothing to write home about. When the pipe is disconnected at one end while running, the tank pump delivers at a very respectable rate out of one open pipe, and there is return from the tandem pump, but not as much, out the other end. Putting ones thumb on the end of the (open) return pipe produces a proper hosepipe type squirting. I am fairly sure that the tandem pump is in order. There was nothing wrong with it before, and it seems to perform now. Back to the timing. The book of lies does not instruct how to establish Crank TDC from first principles. It assumes the timing is correct, and derives locking off positions from the peg in the cam pulley. I think I probably need to prove the timing is correct. The big question. How can I derive the proper crank locking position from first principals, without reference to the cam? The top belt cover is easily removed to access the locking hole. Are there any tricks to avoid stripping the bottom for access?