JonathanOctaviaScout

Hello, I get the following error messages when i connect the iCarsoft CR Max device: P3007 - Camshaft position Sensor - no signal and P1650 -Databus drivetrain - Powertrain Data Bus: Missing Message from Instrument Cluster. The car often stutters on 2nd gear, cranks for an extended period of time no matter if cold or warm climate, sometimes doesn't start in the winter etc. The issue is definitely connected to the camshaft position sensor. I tried changing the sensor without it making any difference, the camshaft position sensor error code is still there. Hence, it should be the ECU or the cables for the connector. I did measure the 2 (electricity) + 1 (earth) cables on the connector. I am wondering how much electricity they should have - what is the correct value for my specific vehicle? Also, in this video, 7 minutes 50 seconds in, he changes the torsion value by loosing the 3 bolts and moving them to the ''middle''... I tried doing this but no difference... Should the bolts really be in the middle for my specific vehicle as well? They were outmost on the side when i first looked.

Hello, I have a Skoda Octavia Scout 2008, 2.0 BMM engine. I think it's time for a ''haldex'' oil change. I wonder two things: 1. Is there a filter which is necessary to change simutaneously? 2. What type of haldex oil should i purchase, what are the specifications? I've read through the instruction manual but it doesn't mention anything about it nor any specifications for the oil. I want to change it, however, just like with the transmission oil i think it can be good to replace despite not being mentioned in the instruction manual. /Jonathan

No. It makes perfect sense. Thank you!

Thanks. I changed the gearbox oil but that's it. I'd appreciate pictures on where to change the bevel gear oil, and also where to change the rear differential box and haldex oil... It seems difficult to both know where it's located and what type of oil to use... The instruction manual doesn't mention anything about it and there's not a lot on youtube about this for the car neither.

Hello, How often should the Haldex oil be changed in a Skoda Octavia Scout 4x4 2008 with a BMM engine? From what i can understand, this oil is for the 4x4 system and should be changed once a while. How often/KM? Thanks.

Thanks for the info, but is there any point changing this then as part of routine maintainance?

Hello. The car has gone 170.000km and the gearbox runs well, however, i've read that it might be a good idea to change the gearbox oil despite it not being a written recommendation in the instruction manual. So, i requested a price offer from a merchanic. 1. They responded that they don't have the equipment and that it's not usual to flush a manual transmission vehicle, and that they can only flush automatic transmissions... My question is if it isn't as necessary to flush a manually transmissioned gearbox? Otherwise changing the oil wont make to much of a difference? 2. They wrote ''If you care so much about your car to change the transmission oil, we also recommend to change the ''Bevel gear'' oil.... I have never heard about this, i also tried googling changing this oil without many results... Is there some truth in what they write or nonsense? 3. I think the ''haldex'' oil for the 4x4 system was changed around 130.000km, so 50.000km ago... How often is it good to change this? I heard that it's good to change it despite it not being written in the instruction manual. /Jonathan

Thanks for the tip. Perhaps w5w works as well, w3w seems quite difficult to find i had to order them, but it worked.

Seems like the old ones were 3w3 it looked like, a bit faded text colour though. I put in 3w3 and it worked. Not sure if 5w5 works as well.

I emptied the can anyways, it revved a bit higher a few times but i think the nozzle wasn't reaching far enough. Not sure if i notice a difference after doing the procedure, probably not, but i don't think the engine has so much carbon anyway due to long distances driving.

Could you clarify what you mean here? I understand the point you mean about the computer being able to compensate/adjust so that it runs smooth despite a change in the fuel/air ratio due to different sensors. And that it may be a "Snake oil" /deceptive product you mean. However, why is exactly my engine not making changes in rpm while all engines in Youtube does and it's considered normal according to the instructions? Bortom Line, is it Still safe to use the other half of the remaining bottle or am i spraying in the wrong place?

?

Edit: I read a bit more about it. In this video the guy reads from the bottle: ''When the RPM doesn't increase during spraying, stop the treatment and contact your workshop''. And in this product sheet: https://www.autoserv.co.nz/uploads/files/product-info-5822c3f947b3d.pdf It's written: ''During the pulverization, the RPM can go up or down, this is normal and ensures the product is being applied properly. This rise in RPM is due to the addition of liquid and the change in the air/fuel ratio.'' ...So, am i not applying it properly by spraying it there? How come the RPM doesn't always increase?

Hi, I have a spray bottle of ''Wynns Diesel EGR & Sensor cleaner'' laying around so i thought i'll spray it into the air intake hose after the mass airflow sensor (where i drawed red on the picture, the picture is from google but it's a similar engine). I have a Skoda Octavia Scout 2008 4x4 BMM engine. However, there was no change in rpm despite spraying 1-2 seconds sometimes. It did change raise once or twice but not at all after every spray like in the youtube videos. I revved it up to 2000rpm/minute. It was almost at working temperature but not completely. How come the rpm did not change? It always does it the youtube clips when they do the same procedure. Might it clean without the rpm changing? I stopped in case something is wrong, but if it might be normal that the RPMs doesn't change i can use the rest.

Hehe yes i already ordered 3w3, but didn't dismount the lamp yet so can go and buy the w5w as well. I'll see which suits.

Aha and w5w doesnt work? The large shop here doesnt have w3w more strange.

Yes that's the place. Aha, w3w... I only seem to find w5w but it should be w3w? I should look some more then.

Aha... Nowadays the new ones seem to be closer to 40.000 EUR here in Sweden, how come did they raise in price?

Hi, I have a Scoda Octavia Scout 2008. Error message claims that the rear right light bulb is broken. It's not the stop lights, not the reverse lights but the light that's always on... Seems to be 4 lights that are always on and the 2 most to the right of the lamp are not working. Up and down. Does anyone know which type of bulbs these are? I prefer not to remove it to see. Which specifications? Thanks

Thanks. Yes i'll probably have to diagnose that with a good scanner, planning on buying one later one.

Hi, I'm wondering what the Scoda Octavia Scout 4x4 2008 with the bmm engine, 140hp, costed when purchased new in 2008. More or less. Anyone remember? & For those who have the same model, how long have you driven with it? miles/km.

Any more ideas?

The oil level is fine, thanks.

Thank you. I'm from the Nordic part of Sweden. Luckily i have the engine pre-heater installed which is common here. I just bought the car, according to the service Book the fuel filter was replaced 1100km ago so quite recently. The car has only gone 165.000km.

Hello. I have a Scoda Octavia Scout 4x4 with a BMM engine. It's cranking a bit long before it starts, comparing with other diesels. This occurs both when it's warm and cold outside, but perhaps especially when it's cold. One morning when it was -16.5c celsius it seemed to crank fine but wouldn't start. When i jumped start it with the help of another battery it started. Another morning when it also was more or less as cold outside it started rather fast. It tends to start a bit faster when it's warm than cold but usually not immediately when it's warm climate neither. If it only occured when it's cold outside, i'd suspect the glow plugs - i may still be but i've had another car with bad glow plugs and only experienced the issue when it was cold outside. I've measured the battery, it's 12.4 volts and goes down to around 10 volts when starting. It's old, so i'm going to change it - However, it still cranks rather fast so i don't think changing the battey will fix it. I have some MAF-sensor cleaning spray laying around, and figure it doesn't hurt to try cleaning that as well. I was thinking about cleaning the MAP/pressure boost sensor as well. I saw there is another sensor on top of the engine most to the left - Is it a MAP sensor or a boost pressure sensor? I've only heard about people cleaning the MAP sensor so if it's a boost pressure sensor i'll skip it. Another thing, the first few seconds after a cold start it seems a bit weaker as well... I have to give it some more gas for it not to stop when taking off. Other than that, it runs completely fine, pretty much always starts, have a completely even idling also at cold start. It's just the long cranking time, which is a bit more but not only, during cold starts. It has also happened that it starts rather quick when it was -15 which makes me not sure that it's related to the glow plugs. That might be something to measure, however... Does anyone have any suggestion or have experienced anything similar with their Scoda Octavia Scout 2008 model?