Dogsb

Yes...''professionally' done whatever that means these days. The use may be an issue. Just been working on an aid project overseas, not driven for 12 weeks. Always note for first couple miles the strange odour out the back..which does clear quite quickly. There are 6 months each year I don't touch the thing.

Course Liqui Mol is German. Website you can give details on vehicle, the suggested items are in response to those details.

Thanks to all for the insights. Whenever it appears does not go out until next turn off/switch on. [drove an hr other night with it on, fuelled up twas gone on start up] It is a new battery so will check that connection tomorrow. I did have an egr fault show [came on after dropping from 80mph to nearly zero after emergency braking, [ semi truck came into my lane]. Went out next day but had it checked at dealer, all was ok apparently...and not reappeared. I do use Liqui mol [Speed tec and others] in general [last MOT was extremely clean Im told] Engine oil is Liqui mol top tec 4200 [older engine formula....whatever that is] Maybe my mileage is not helping....rarely these days do 3k per annum, but I still observe a 12 month rule..''xxxx miles or 12 months'' on everything . Thanks again on comments, will tick those actionable beginning tomorrow. Keith

TDI Manual

Sorry, of course. 2014 Octavia Tour De France [2l] 4x4. Has basic trim, was made for carrying bikes so very minimal accessories. Manual 6 speed. Got on the road to repairs..and never stopped. Front end [suspension, disc's etc etc] Inlet manifold [thought was the egr leak..wasnt] clutch AND new diff [ at 6k costs] New boots all round Lot of money I know, love the 4x4 system, rear seats take out in 30 secs....[can get 3 cubic meter bags in there]. Has 130k on it, Hoping to make it to 200 or more.

Maybe once per week orange warning triangle [mid bottom of dash] appears, once driven for a while and after stopping/restarting it disappears. There is no other light appearing [simultaneously] In the manual the triangle usually appears with a particular link. ie brakes, gearbox oil etc. As an aside..and maybe linked, the dpf, Since owning the vehicle have put 30k on it, serviced a few times, never dpf mentioned. I wondered at what point is it prudent to consider cleaning, or does one wait til a problem arises [I prefer pre-emptive maintenance] Tks in advance for comments Keith

On the egr cooler fail. I was told my leak was that by local mech...who wouldnt touch it, I took to Skoda, was the inlet manifold [mine used egg cup every 100 miles or so] Thats 5k miles since, no leak.

Was afraid of that. I know when I was told my leak was egr cooler it was 6 hrs to get the thing out, in the end was inlet manifold. To be honest goes with how the car has reduced performance last few days. Higher rev's needed to get up to gear change level. Lower fuel economy too of course. Assuming a clean is needed, anyone done this while valve still in situ? On thought on the above. Two weeks passed emissions easily...would the above fault show at all.?

Diag says P0401...egr or ???? could be anything of course. States not enough gas recirculation, to clogging to sensor to vacuum. 4k miles ago I had a whole new inlet manifold kit done..was leaking coolant [at skoda...fortune] Nothing else found. Have removed code, will see if returns. Tks for all the pointers

Tks for that. No, drives as normal but appears to need more foot to the floor getting up to gear change speed Will have my scanner back this morning hopefully, Course its at an age where one thing after another will fail I normally do 2-3k miles a year at most [even then always do oils etc annually] but last 3 weeks have put 2500 on, had visitors from overseas. Been driven pretty hard.

This happened today 2014 S3 octavia [Tour De France model with 2l diesel 4x4] 130k miles MOT 600 miles since ago. Passed easily so am told. Was doing maybe 85 [Yes I know] and had to brake heavily down to 30 or less, HGV semi swerved 3 lanes into my lane directly if front of me. Shifted down the gears to help with some engine braking, down to 25mph] As I shifted down to 2nd, light popped on dash. Checked manual after getting and states the warning light is as mentioned above. Coincidence? Drove maybe 50 miles after, stayed on. My tester is loaned out right now [maybe tomorrow will have it back] Probably phycological but have noticed this past week having to shift down to navigate hills [live in mountainous part of Wales] I always take note of rpm on shift changes.....the grunt is not there below 1700...results in slight torque shudder [obviously manual] Hoping its not much of a repair, just spent 6k on new rear diff plus 3 complete rebuild front suspension and full braking system. Tks for any observations. Keith

Yes.....a few.....these two keep within the 10mb limit. I include the box as when I put diagnostics on it [before it was changed] it came with a code for no ground.

Rear diff wrecked after local mech left unconnected some elec connections. [reader had shown no ground] Anyway but the bullet and paid for new [yep 6k] Had spent two weeks searching, best builder in uk said if its in need of parts theres no way he could rebuild as thye dont release gears etc etc] Plus fidning a good used one is a lotto thing, then the programming etc] Had spent maybe 5k over past couple yrs [inlet manifold, full suspension, disks, exhaust, rad etc etc] has intend to keep as long as poss [its a 2014 tour de france edition] Anyway. Got it back, done maybe 200 miles. Have a torque shudder, along with associated hum [as we know torque decreases as rpm increase] from maybe 1700 to 2200 rpm, has the feel of unbalanced prop shaft [from older vehicles in my past, we all know about marking prop and diff flange before disassemble] This is in all gears, mention this as its not speed related [wheel balancing Thoughts....apart from obvious observations on spending silly money at a Skoda dealer Keith Tks

yeah...she told me

His is not a 4x4, but he does service a lot of vag's He's done quite a bit of work on mine, always really good, actually collects and returns for me as he lives same village. He's well respected locally, has a 6 weeks lead time just to get in. So busy he stopped doing MOT's couple years back. I do think one of his guys has done it, not been checked by him tho. Sadly nearest dealer is nigh on 60 miles away....benefits of living wild's of Wales.

Strangely the guy who ones the shop has a VRS as his personal car....but he does have others in the shop. My guess is he didnt check on them I actually know one of them, just arrived from life of working on Bentleys. Thanks for the comments, given whats been said Im mightily surprised it's done 500 miles. Actually plugged diagnostic in a while back....came up with code c111213 ''clutch pump open circuit haldex''...called skoda dealer who told me no such code???

Had my haldex [gen 5] oil changed 1000 miles ago, maybe 500 miles ago noise from the back end...sounds diffy.... Do they have to be done together, I assume theyre different units...meaning draining the haldex does not drain the diff. The noise get's louder when warmed up, plus theres a road speed link...meaning wheel rotation speed. I made a recording using phone in the boot, theres a delay getting in/out of the car, the click you hear is when changing gear...which you can't hear in the drivers seat. Its a 2014 Tour De France model [4x4] made for 100 yrs of tour de france. Standard recording 6.mp3

Yes..Mech lives 3 doors from me [has his own shop] He has the same yr but the VRS 2WD. Bout 1000 miles since. I loaned it to him [Was a Scout for sale locally so asked to drive couple days....course 4x4 is only used 10% of the time] Anyway, he put a clutch, discs all round, front shocks, inlet manifold [leak..everyone said egr but wasn't] few other things plus a 'donut' at the rear. Also fluids which included Haldex [his suggestion as as just topped 120k] He did mention the strainer, also mentioned oil wasnt that bad. Me thinks [maybe wrongly] driving conditions, our location is mud n farmyard droppings filled roads, its been so wet all year [my location is officially wettest in UK] just never dried out. Thought could be connection issue [had a car where the alarm ran to the starter motor..which faced forward, turned the key and nothing, dd 40 on connection worked fine, known fault] There was no code displayed. As usual before a long trip I connect scanner and see if anything hidden. Anyway have deleted code, shut down, restarted and its gone..but havent driven it yet.

Searched the code, hasnt come up anywhere. Course should have done it ages ago...bout to do a 500 mile round-trip tomorrow. Anyone had same fault. Had a full service on it 1000 miles ago The code only came up after plugging ob11 in...no dash warnings Tks Keith

Thanks for that. Did answer a worry I had [besides...what to do with everything that is there, condenser, pipes, electrics etc] then not being used Seeing as dealer quoted 1500 to deal with it I thought I may make an attempt. I did hear the pulley is not replaceable, whether or not true I found the whole thing [compressor etc] was around 300..plus belt of course. Only remaining question is [apart from charging of course] difficulty of replacing new for old [am assuming one has to evacuate the system?] Tks again for the note

2014 Octavia Tour De France [4x4 model] Had a coolant leak, found was the inlet manifold. Had the dealer do it, while there he found the a/c pulley bearing was on the way to failing. .Pondered whether to pulley change or complete unit. Have a great relationship with local parts guy, knows Im away for much of the year when a/c would be used. He questioned whether I should even bother. ''Why not remove and install a belt without a/c provision' Think its 4 yrs I last was in country for summer..or weather that needed a/c Im assuming its more complicated that just omitting the pulley drive? Keith

Been told by Skoda dealership its the inlet manifold, 2 grand to fix. Is it a possible home fix?...and what probs could arise [reset comp etc.] Tks Orignally thought was the egr cooler as oer is often on these...and a pig to do. Tks Keith

Been advised my coolant leak [4 months of 10mm per week loss] is an egr coolant. Anyone with experience of this? Have a round-trip of 400 miles over the weekend to make I cant miss. Have been told its going out thru exhaust [not sure if thats correct, think its a guess to be honest as tried everything else apparently] Damage caused if any, other than topping up 10 mm every 200 miles. Thanks for any info.

Strangely had a new battery fitted last week [had to be coded] Guy that fit it said earth lead only if disconnecting. Vehicle wont be left at home while away [parked in a secure compound] The 8 weeks could turn into 12, without being driven at all.