mutetourettes

I've got the same issue with a DRR-M30 (same mechanism, both service manuals available online).. Looking closely at mine it's the slightly-up-and-down-movable bits of the hubs that are 'sticking' down if they get nudged down by a tape during loading and not springing back up to properly engage with the teeth in the hubs of the cassette itself. Therefore while the pinch roller and capstan are merrily drawing tape through, the take-up reel isn't turning at all, so tape spools out onto the pinch roller and surroundings.. It seems the spring on the forward take up reel is weaker (different part number to the other spring), so it's that one that presents the problem... hence on mine reverse play and rewind is ok but forward play and ffwd are not. I hope it just needs a stronger spring, but I don't know where to get one or why they would have originally specced a weak one. Also I'm suspicious of the hub mouldings themselves - I've taken them apart and cleaned and lubed to try and get rid of 'sticktion', and parts move smoothly in my hand, but as soon as i put them back in the machine there's a 'gritty' quality to the movement... so something's going on.. I haven't got to the bottom of it yet, but I've started a thread on tapeheads so I'm hoping with their help we'll solve this apparently common problem...

i'm guessing diesel, cos it sounds similar to my problems too. jeez i hope one of us sorts this out some day....

correct me if i'm wrong but i think the plugs can remain on for quite a while (a few minutes) after the light goes off - the light is a "wait for me" warning but does not indicate whether the plugs are off, the ecu may choose to keep them on for a while. apparrently you can check how many plugs are working by the current in the cable - after an initial peak it settles to 8 amps for each functioning plug, should be 32A.

mine has a blue paint blob on the throttle-position-reading-pot - so i guess it's a factory paint-pot. Yeah I guess injectors are strong possibility for the starve/surge behaviour - or maybe the EGR is going mad for some reason - I heard that can produce basically any wierd symptom!

well it wasn't so much the worry of getting a spanner to the plug - i was concerned that it wouldn't have room to wiggle out of the engine block, but turns out that it came out fine. Car is very much appreciating having 4 new plugs... still a little prone to starve/surge though... oh well.

My local mechanic had a go at this today when he had changed the glow-plugs - he noticed that it sounded like a misfire if the revs were held around 1000, and adjusted the rod length until it sounded smooth at this speed - car is running much nicer now, though still a little bit starve/surge-prone. Still interested to know what angle other members' 1.9D mysterious levers are at when throttle is at rest...

ah ok - just for the record it's not a big problem to get the plugs out, they're not long at all.

thanks - i got one today from a local VW garage - £15+vat - it was easy to fit too. car much quieter - still have some 'clunk' though, so i'll look at the exhaust mounts next...

thanks everyone - i got the part today from a diesel place - they said to set it up they'd have to take the pump off and do it on a bench - maybe 3hrs labour, at £65/hr + vat.... they also didn't agree with teflontom's description of "main fuel delivery lever" - they thought it was something like "light load timing advance" (i can't quite remember) - but in teflontom's defence they didn't seem super-sure.. not really noticed any big difference having put the link on, will have to try various positions. could anyone with a 1.9D tell me what position their mystery lever is in (ie hands on a clock, compared to vertical) when the throttle is at rest. pretty please!

hehe ok that sounds like a practical approach - but i find it hard to believe that the no2 glow plug is THAT hard to get out - has anyone here changed theirs? Haynes says we can expect them to be dying around 60k miles, must be pretty common. anyone? Bueller? Anyone?

ah, thanks - so that explains a lot! - I'll try and find a replacement - do we think the length will be standard for all pumps of this type, or do we think it's a 'tuned for each individual pump' sorta thing (in which case i'm screwed, not having the original...) could anyone measure... pretty please... thanks Mark

Think I might have a new clue as to why my felicia 1.9D is running strangely - sometimes it seems to be starved of fuel :confused: then suddenly kicks in with full force. :eek: Today i noticed what appears to be a missing linkage on the engine side of the fuel pump. A lever that easily turns is connected to nothing - looks to me like a bar should connect it to the throttle lever (attached image) - anybody have any clue what this lever is for, and whether i can get the part to connect it to the throttle lever? attached is a picture of the absence... Mark

Hi - put an amp clamp on my glow plug cable today and got 8 amps when it steadied out - so does everyone agree that I've only got one glow plug actually working? (Haynes says it should be 32amps ie 4*8amps). That would be why it's so hard to start then... decided to replace whole set with some good name brand ones. Looking at the engine it looks like plug 2 will be impossible to remove without taking off the fuel pump or the cylinder head - does anyone have experience of this? Any advice would be most welcome cheers Mark (attached image of glow plug 2 stuck behind the solenoid on the fuel pump)

aaaah... i also though you meant taking the plugs out and wetting them! will try slobber in situ on the external parts, as my 1.9d is also not starting well at all. Also mine has had a run-in with biodiesel (though new filter since then), so possibly some residue still lurking somewhere is waxing up... bleurch.

my1.9D estate is having a really similar problem - feels like a sudden fuel starve- can also happen sometimes at 70/80mph... but mostly on roundabouts or just accelerating from start when i've used too much welly in first gear.. after the starve it's as if the blockage clears and there's a huge (and often unwanted, even dangerous) push of power as all the fuel comes through! Oh and it's become a total sod to start in the cold too. so from what i can gather on this forum there's a vacuum operated fuel timing advance mechanism, some kind of mechanical idle speed boost mechanism, and presumably the mechanical accelerator mechanism - sheesh will have to check these out. Filter has been replaced pretty recently. a while ago the little cover on the last injector return pipe nipple broke, letting the system squirt fuel everywhere - this is currently wearing a piece of rubber pipe with a screw in the end to plug it. could this be knackering my fuel system somehow, or could it have got knackered when it was doing its squirting? I don't know much about diesels, or petrols...

anyone know where's best to get them from? - i need to do mine too - mechanic said it was a very simple job - 'even *you* could do it' were his words i think...

had this on my t-reg - solved it by just wiggling my finger in the windscreen rubber at the bottom corners - there's klind of an opening or flap where you can get in - i got a load of horrible black gunk out of there - no flooding since - fingers crossed

Thanks - I didn't go for it in the end because it had no type approval label - was on a P-reg car - mine is T-reg so needs the sticker, apparently.. is that mad?

ok - i found atowbar today at the breakers yard on a pre-facelift felicia estate - does anyone know if this should fit my post-facelift estate?

maybe i don't understand that diagram too well but i think 2 is the actuator in the door, below the lock mechanism - I've had trouble with my central locking but it's one of the rear mechanisms gets sticky and the fuse blows...

but remember with those infinities you'll need extra wiring for the crossovers, and the tweeters, and you'll need to fit the crossovers somewhere and the tweeters somewhere too, preferably higher up (nearer your ears). I put a similar set up by JBL into my last car - it was a bit of a hassle but did sound nice in the end! let us know what you do, i may well copy...

Anybody have any recommendations or know were I can get one -with electrics - and does anyone know why i would want relay electrics? It's for a caravan, so i guess twin electrics is right? cheers for helping the clueless Mark

so are you saying the crud accumulates in the inlet manifold trumpets which come off, or the actual intake tube holes in the cylinder head? I guess i could take off the manifold trumpets and clean them if i find a new gasket somewhere. I guess I'm a little worried that bits of crud might get impacted into the valve seats and whatnot if I couldn't get it all out of the way.

mm no idea whether there's a cat section in my exhaust (uk t-reg) but how would you or anyone recommend cleaning the intakes if there were? any ideas? Mark

i looked at desborough recently they had 4 felicias, all pre facelift, but i'm sure some were 1.6. Unfortunately some were destined for the crusher very soon, so it's worth ringing them.. frank beale scrapyard, desborough NN14 2SP tel. 01536 763088