tetoon

How do i know what? That EGR heat exchanger isn't the cause? We replaced it but fault is still present. For 10 years there wasn't a single mL of coolant loose. So from my point of view every dcL of coolant meas a big difference. How do i measure it? Fill it up, mark km counter and after 10-20days - when i check fluid level and fill it up, I also check what distance was made. Cap? How to detect cap leaking? No residue of coolant around.

Hello! My beloved Skoda Octavia, mk3, CKFC, 2.0 TDi is magically loosing coolant. Water pump has been changed about 80.000km ago, as well as head gasket. And recently coolant started to disappear with a rate 1.5-2 dcL/1000km. No visible coolant loose, no check engine light, no white or blue smoke. So assumption was made that EGR heat exchange must be faulty. As well as valve and head exchanger were replace - coolant disappearing continues. We proceeded with chemical test of CO2 presence in coolant was made. No, CO2 in coolant was detected. Footwell area sims to be dry. No visible marks of coolant. As well as engine radiator. Also no crack on coolant expansion tank or its cap. We have runed out of ideas. what could be a problem. Any ideas anyone? Did you maybe encounter similar problem? What was the solution? Thank you for an answers, responds.

Update.... I know that few are following debates. Motor was disassembled and checked. Head is cracked. Yeeeeey. My car will get new parts 😡 Anyway... I'll fix it. Let's think how to seize the opportunity. Car has abt 220.000 km. I thought about mounting new valve rings. Anything else? Thank you for answers.

Hello! Thank you for answers. Cylinder head gasket was replaced abt 2y. According to mechanic's words also leveling with milling machine was done and also hi-pressure test was performed. @varaderoguy thank you for the link. My car is forcing me to become mechanic :) Engine type is CKFC - so TDi. @Alasdair1 as far as I know; this EGR and kind of temperature exchange element (maybe EGR cooling) is incorporated. I strongly hope that coolant leakage is happening there and not in engine. Car is responsive like 150HP car can be; no lagging, no loss of power, no white smoke, no other-color smoke. So, in moment of speaking, car is at mechanics. I'll wait for his comment. TNX for answers and debate.

Hello! I decided to chat, ask opinions or experiences before I take my car back to workshop. In late Jan 2025 I replaced EGR and DPF. And now, after abt 4 mounts check engine light lit on. Diagnostic shows: P0401 [0x0401] Exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system - insufficient flow detected Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Flow Insufficient Status: Confirmed After all coolant is disappearing in a rate 1dcL/1000km. Anyone experienced something similar? What was the cause in your case or in case you know? Thank you for your answers! Regards

Short update I decided to replace faulty EGR and clean DPF. Soon after begging of DPF cleaning, it shuttered into peaces. So decision was made; EGR replacement and DPF restoring (new honeycomb). But I ended up at remapping - of course, without EGR and DPF removal. Obviously both things had to be done. Horses came out of stable in total legal way

Hello! Tnx for answers. Well, My Octavia is 2014, CKFC engine. I have never done any major repairs and nor like cleaning EGR and DPF. And so far no extra oil consumption. OBD reading says EGR problems. DPF regeneration occurs occasionally. Because problem is more on and off; i can assume EGR works and it's sticking Maybe it needs just cleaning... idk. I might start with cleaning DPF and proceeding with EGR inspection (cleaning/replacing). Maybe DPF isn't cause of problem, but cleaning doesn't hurt What do u think? Anybody has different experience? TNX

Hello! My EGR life is getting to the end. It's not completely dead. It works 20day, and off 4 day. Than 1 months, and 5 day off... and so on. Warning comes on (and also lack of power) and than it works again in couple of days. Has anyone experienced such a behavior; not dead, but getting sick)? How did you solved the problem? By fixing, replacing or EGR deleting and remapping? Thanks for answers.

Yea. Not good. No bench testing was made. And pump is supposed to be OK - its about 12-17 months old. No sludge was found on filter, but some metal dust/debris. Oil was replaced about 24 months ago and now again. We will see. Now it's seems to work...

Hello! Topic update: After discussing with mechanic past week we decided to start solving problem step by step. First was Haldex oil change. And after 200km its promising. All symptoms was gone. So far, so good. Maybe some metal debris were present. Off course I take care of machine I just wanted to know if this symptoms can result in catastrophic failure and further expenses Thanks to all for now. I hope I'll not have to write for help again near time soon Kindly regards.

Hello! Tnx anyone for replying the topic. I appreciate! No. The wheels/tires are all same size. In this moment winter M+S, 16". Stock size. The tearing or rattling sound is not so audible more felt when you are inside car. And yes; the hole thing its like driving, being in a proper off-road vehicle or true quattro Haldex pump and oil was changed 1y ago. Accelerating in straight line is no problem. And also accelerating in 3rd and does not cause any issue. Hi power, hi toque and 90° turns are usually made on intersecting roads, parking lots, country roads,etc And exactly this kind situations described issue occurs on paved surfaces only. So.... you think/suggest that CV joint is worth of checking? Approximately yes. All bearing in diff. Haldex remained unservicesed. Just oil change. I can assume we are describing the same sensation, feelin - it feels like proper 4x4, or quattro. To much engaged. Yes. I talked with mechanic again and you are correct; he was describing me engaging the Haldex clucth and % so on As first step in solving problem, we decided to go with oil change. Metal contamination? Like disintegration Maybe. We will see if oil replace would wash away I can't answer that question. I was informed that spare parts are not available at all. And group of guys; found a solution of modifying Audi and SKF bearing and modifying bearing bed. Guys gained experiences in Skoda Service and modifying rally race cars. Like I said; I'm not mechanic. I can only have faith that the did right job.... I'll give report after oil change. We will see. Tnx again to all! Kindly regards,

Hey hey. Tnx for reply. Welll.... at the end of spring some bearing sound appeared. Car had abt 200.000km. And we started with the less costly well bearings - rear wheel bearing. They were bad indeed. But the sound remained. So we proceeded with replacing diff bearings. And we succeeded. After 10.000km described above problems appeared. OBD data analyses shows that under condition (-1.- When I'm steering (doing corners) with applying throttle (gas) in 1st or 2nd gear, it seams that rear diff locks up as much it can. And sounds like something is the tearing apart. Only in 1st and 2nd gear.) that rear diff locks up to 34% which is max it can be achieved - according to VW mechanic's words. Sounds are coming from rear part. I also talked with few guys, who are mechanics on trucks and transportation vehicles. Few of them were familiar with issues like described. Similar problem was spotted on VW Passat and VW Transporter 4Motion (Synchro). But unfortunately they don't recall the solution. I assume its not CV.... That's it. Don't know how to proceed further.... Tnx for all suggestions and sharing experiences.

Hello! I'm having really interesting issue. Because I'm not mechanic I'll name it rear problem Symptoms: -1.- When I'm steering (doing corners) with applying throttle (gas) in 1st or 2nd gear, it seams that rear diff locks up as much it can. And sounds like something is the tearing apart. Only in 1st and 2nd gear. -2.- This is very noticeable at the begging of driving. When I'm on the road lets say 10 or 15km, those symptoms are not so noticeable, but issue is still there, -3.- When I'm not applying throttle, no issues. -4.- When driving in straight line, no issues regardless of throttle applied or gear selection. -5.- When reversing and steering same symptoms are like described in poin1. Anyone with similar problems? How did you solved it? Many thanks for all answers.

Hello! Hopefully you are right. I'm also thinking to pull a line true firewall of AWG 18-16 from engine compartment to DC-DC charger and leisure battery. Tnx for all answers again.

Hello. That means that a load of 12V and 20A would be a go? Is that a solid connectio from voltage stabilizer? Or fused over one of the fuses under the hood fuse box? Looking to connect DC - DC battery charger. Thnx again. It's looking promising 😁

Hello! In "cockpit fuse box", place 3 is not populated. But one terminal terminal (positive one) is available. Can somebody tell me what is the presuppose of that and what AWG is behind? I'm seeking for 12V 20A DC source inside cockpit. TNX for answers.

Hello! My first post on the forum. I'm experiencing the same problem: cold start (after 8h-10h sitting), front facing down the slight hill, low RPM (because no need to press gas pedal). And after 50m no brake power. Sometimes "spiral" sign near "check engine" sign blinks, but very rarely. Have you solved the problem? What was the cause in your case? Thank you very much! Mitch