StephFR

Sure, I will check the battery voltage and terminals, you never know. Thanks

To add to this, I just went to another mechanic for the emissions check. He scanned the car and found fault code P0600 with his diagnostic tool too.

Thank you for this very comprehensive explanation and demonstration. This VCDS issue might be a bit too technical for me to track down. However, I did have some issues in the driver's door loom that I fixed the best I could. Maybe my ugly solder joints are related to the remaining CAN communication issues. Yes, thanks for the suggestion. I guess I should try a new bleed under pressure (having only done it with the pedal so far), skipping the ABS for now as it doesn't communicate.

It should read: "I noticed it was as high as 8 L/100 km, and once it dropped below 5 L/100 km the engine warning light disappeared."

I finally found the solution for the engine warning and cruise control issue. Driving outside the city fixed it. From what I understand, lowering the average fuel consumption helped: I got it down to around 8 L/100 km, and once it dropped below 5 L/100 km the engine warning light disappeared. After the next restart, the cruise control started working again as well. The only remaining issue is the VCDS connection problem. If anyone has suggestions, let me know.

FYI, here is the current situation. I have checked the ABS-related fuses and they appeared to be fine. However, the VCDS communication issue remains, and the module still returns: 'Too many communication errors to continue'. Following my fuse manipulation, I am now facing: An engine warning with an exhaust system alert Loss of cruise control functionality I’ve re-checked all fuses and fixed one amperage mismatch (not engine-related), but no luck so far. I’m currently driving with the warning light on and I'm worried about potentially damaging the engine or the exhaust system, although I believe my car is not equipped with a DPF. I haven't noticed any change in how the engine is running. I have tried to unplug the battery for 2 days, but there was no change. Is there another simple reset procedure to try, or specific VCDS settings to stabilize the connection?

Thanks, I understand better now why it seems confusing… because it is :)

Thanks for confirming that this model does not use CAN protocol, at least, we can rule that out. Instead of running a full auto-scan, I tried accessing module 03 (ABS) directly. Sometimes, it appears to see correctly the VAG Number + Component + Soft Coding + Shop (does it exclude fuse issue?)... but then it keeps switching between different communication protocols (at least that's how it appears). If I manage to click on "Fault Codes 02" button quickly enough, it eventually returns the message "Too many communication errors to continue". (It looks like I am not senior enough to send you a message)

Yes I am a bit confused about the way ABS unit works (I'd rather not change it as it is quite expensive). Maybe there is no CAN on this car as per information on Vcds cable site "The New Beetle continued to use the older k-line diagnostics only incorporating CAN for Generic OBD-2 in 2008 as mandated by the EPA. Other holdover models such as the 7V Seat Alhambra, 6L Seat Ibiza/Cordoba, 6Y/5J Skoda Fabia, 1U Skoda Octavia, 5J Skoda Roomster, 3U Skoda Superb and others may have continued to use the older k-line diagnostics into and past 2008." Yes I did try off/on/running. This cable is from a mechanic (working fine on other cars). Couldn't scan any codes so far but could only get some controller basics informations. By your suggestions, I guess I could try to remove all fuses and keep only ABS, we never know

The pedal behaves the same whether the engine on or off. In both cases, the pedal travel looks to be the same at the top and bottom

Amazing thanks. I didn't pay attention, I thought that drain pipe was an overflow

I haven't experienced any leak nor fluid level loss. But I'm curious, how/where are they connected?

Thank you for your replies. Sorry, I didn't explain what was already done. Regarding the pedal brake issue itself, I've already performed a complete inspection (no leaks, no worn-out hoses), bled the system, replaced the master cylinder, and bled it again. The brakes work almost normally, except that if I increase the pedal pressure slightly and hold it for 10 seconds, the pedal eventually sinks to the floor. There are 4 discs. Regarding the diagnosis, there is no signal on the dashboard, but I'd at least like to check the ABS status/messages. The radio is original (I think it's a 'Car Dance' unit), I'm not sure how to access it. When I check the communication status on the PC, it reads: 'Status Ready / K1 OK / K2 OK / CAN NOT READY'. Does this seem normal to you on this car?

Hello everyone, I'm experiencing an issue with my brake pedal (basically going to the floor), and I suspect it might be related to the ABS module. I tried to scan the ABS unit for fault codes using VCDS, but I’m unable to communicate with it: it seems like CAN communication is not available. Is this normal on a Fabia Mk2 (5J), or should I definitely be able to access the ABS module via CAN? Any advice or feedback would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Thank you Pete and Lee for your confirmation

Oh really, thanks for your information. Maybe the setting has changed by itself when installing the new battery (I got a pretty remarkable electric arc). My concern is more about the potential consequences on the battery discharging (maybe it was just the old battery, we'll see how behaves the new one). Have a nice day

Hello, On my Fabia 2008, I now noticed that when the ignition is off (even for a while) whenever I push the brake pedal, rear brake lights will light on. I am pretty sure it wasn't the case before, could you confirm? And would you have an idea of the root cause?

That's the same issue we have when the driver control unit is faulty or the LinBus wiring is broken.

I believe it should be a mandatory security feature (not to depend on a functional LinBus to get out in case of a crash for example). Here is a link I found for Fabia MK1 for this emergency mode (called either "Limited function" or "Emergency operation function"): https://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/fabia-mk1/body/body_work/self_diagnosis_v.a.g_inspection_service/self-diagnosis_for_convenience_system_with_lin_databus_cable/fault_table_of_lin_databus/control_units_for_window_control_in_the_individual_doors/ Couldn't find it for MK2, but behavior looks similar (if you unplug control unit for driver window, other windows will work only for 10 minutes). That's the same issue we have when the driver control unit is faulty.

Thank for your reply. As long as the live+ground (1+2) is coming up to the module, shouldn't the window work in emergency mode for 10 minutes?

Hello, I am having issue with my 4 electric windows on my Fabia 2008. At first, it was an intermittent issue where none would work and sometimes later, they will without intervention. Then they finally stop working, but I could run them for 10 minutes in the emergency mode by removing fuses one minute or so. So I start looking into the issue, and I finally found one almost broken wire (black/blue) in the driver's door loom. After it was fixed, I noticed that the central locking is back to work when using the key in the door. Regarding windows functionality, it get worst: 3 windows are still working only in the emergency mode, except for the driver's window (and obviously the 4 switches command of the driver). So I am now suspecting an issue with driver unit control (not sure if it is called J386?) new to the motor of the driver's door. The references on the motor are 6Y2959802A 402079C HW002 SW0330 MR6 Made in france 09/08/07 08:07 T5 SK250D4DLS And on the TEMIC unit control part 440778DN 402010A4 19.07.07 HW:002 SW:03XX (on the card itself is written TSG-PQ24 290 758 04 A) On the TEMIC module, there are 2 connectors: -One has 8 pins: I checked that voltage between thick brown 1 and thick red/white 2 is around 12V. So I was expected this would be enough for the window to run in emergency mode. Is it the case? -One has 10 pins (for the command switches I guess). Is there a simple way to test the controller? Or did I missed something? Any hint would be appreciated! Thanks