ncsknc

Looks like insurance are offering £3k to scrap this car and give it to Copart. Was previous CAT N. Thinking if we should take it, not able to find a suitable alternative though. On one hand, no one is offering this price and on the other hand, she is a known devil. hmmm. thanks all.

It was a break in the wire due to corrosion. Local garage fixed it for £270. Diagnosis and two hours labour. Wish I knew how to check continuity on the wires. It’s probably easy for them having the car on the ramp. It’s broken under the back seat they said.

I have finally convinced the repairers to leave the car at my home so they can have space. MOT due in May and I wanted to have this fixed soon! 😔 Could you please guide me how to find a local garage that doesn't rip me off? List of things that needs doing has grown! ABS and anti-skid warning light due to hitting a pothole Rear brake left and right adjustment (Not spinning freely) Wheel alignment Changing speed sensors (Offside rear) If ABS error still persists, try changing ABS loom if not the whole ABS system Could you provide wheel arch cover / broken in the near front right Start/Stop system not working, probably linked to ABS. Replace all Car Locking Wheel Nuts to normal bolts. Looking for a cost on parts and labour. #Thanks

Not a surprise here, trying to own a car for the first time in my life. We purchased it for £3000 and it was CAT N previously. It is possible the insurance is basing this on the amount mentioned on purchase? Not sure if the value of the vehicle as being £3000 gets passed on from the comparethemarket to Hastings. I didn't even know there are certain CAT vehicles that I need to avoid especially if I don't know anything about repairs as evident by my post history with basic questions here and other forums. Anyways, I learnt a lot albiet an expensive lesson. Citigo 2013 Greentech previous CAT N. 70k on. Little service history of battery change, tyre change, oil by previous owner. Like for like, I think I can replace it with another vehicle for £3500 but I doubt insurance agent would not laugh at me if I say that as my valuation. What is surprising if that they are being silent with no communication. Perhaps they are expecting me to call them to give their first valuation but I am not very good on the phone and gives me a lot of anxiety just thinking about it.

Just updating with where we are with this. Insurance said they would be happy to fix it and sent it off to repairers. Vizion Network. Repairers given insurance company a quote and Hastings, the insurers decided to write off the car! 😮 (I saw the quote is for the rear sensor harness on both wheels and the speed sensors themselves. £700 including labour) Now they are not trying to contact me to give me a valuation or discuss this durther. Just become silent and I keep emailing [email protected] and [email protected] Wish the repair was done with independant company and atleast we could have a car now.

Yes, unfortunately I still do. That resets the light, turns off the light, bing and turns it back on again with the same error.

Ah, I have been researching how to clean the brake dust, adjust it so it doesn't catch and perhaps even change the brake shoes. Now, looks like relucter ring is within the hub assembly means, removing the hub, needs hub nut socket, decent breaker bar, torque wrench to put it back on along with an angle guage. 😐 Insurance says they could cover this as it was caused by a pot hole but the excess is at £490. The garage called after a day and pulled out of the repair request saying they are at full capacity. I have to find out how much it would cost to clean the drum, adjust so it doesn't catch, change brake shoes on both rear sides, together with removing hub assembley and cleaning relucter ring (hoping the ABS issue gets fixed) Or starting out as a repair job on ABS and if it would cost less than £490. Could you guys please suggest in your experience if you approach a job like this, how would you choose? The list of things that needs doing and the costs keeps growing!

https://imgur.com/a/MUej7P9 wait, parking was not on. should the feel spin freely? I was really struggling to turn it and nearly knocked over the jack. also, does this mean the gunk could be break dust? As in reluctor ring is within the housing. Is the brake pads in the drum in the same housing? could this be an issue that there is a lot of build up of black stuff as above and the ring is physically deformed somehow with dust?

Thanks. I have this VCDS tool connected to my laptop to reset codes. It didn’t, came back again. I didn’t try battery disconnect. I didn’t know that could be a step I could try! for some reason the car didn’t start. Showed oil symbol, topped up few ml and now it started again. i have indeed driven the car. no, I don’t have tools for hub disassembly. I have tried cleaning the relucter ring using a screw driver bit wound in a cloth. this was directly inserted into the hole. It was indeed clogged up, black stuff came out. Pictures attached. I could not rotate the wheel freely as it was too hard and couldn’t clean the whole ring properly. Nothing changed. I am weighing up options here. Have insurance excess of £490. Could go through them for a full ABS system change. Or could try independent garage for more experiments.

Probably too simply of a question, is there a guide or a video or a brief description of how to check the reluctor ring? What it should look like, comparing a healthy and broken one? I meant locking wheel nut sorry. I am unable to remove the right rear. can try rear left. Found a video where the cable is damaged. Not sure if that is something that has happened to me. Falla Sensor ABS/ VW UP / Skoda Citigo / Seat Mii ABS Wheel Sensor / Code C101B14 (youtube.com)

I am so sad right now. I think the locknut has stripped trying to remove the right rear. All 4 bolts were too tight. I am pretty sure it said just under 2V ingnition on, on the problem rear left wheel .

Hi i have replaced the sensor the problem with same error is still there. Sadly. I have measured the voltage on incoming cable in the problem rear left wheel, it says just under 2V. Should this be a 2V? I am removing the other rear wheel now to check how much it says there. is there a fuse per wheel for ABS sensors? Could that be an issue?

Thanks. Still waiting on the order! Can't wait and hope the weather improves so I can get this done when it delivers. It's wet all around and missus will not be please if the car is out of commission for too long. Found another thread that talks about battery being an issue. Doubt it in my case, it's a new start/stop battery replaced in 2022. Having said that, would constant start stop some how burns through the sensor resistor? I am presuming it's the resistor type sensor or a small copper coil that get's magnetised with DC current from battery. All in all, this is a fascinating and simple tech. * ABS sensor * Reluctor ring * Battery.

Digging a bit deeper, I was able to see real time log on the measuring tool. Rear left stays zero. 😔 I am hoping the failed component is just the sensor. Ordered one and waiting for the delivery. It is a bit strange, sensor is the non moving component with just a magneto resistor, and how it fails. The only explanation I have is moisture corrosion but I don't see any obvious signs of corrosion getting inside the contacts.

okay thanks. Ordering one now.

Ah thanks! He is ground for few months now. Until he gets used to the house and feel safe. I was able to remove the wheel, remove the clip on the cable, clear the female part of the cable from the computer, remove the nut for the sensor, take out the sensor and clean it. Gives me the exact same error! 0003 - Rear Left Wheel Speed Sensor C101C 14 [137] - Open or Short to Ground MIL ON - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear the contacts are clean already. No obvious signs of rotor hitting the sensor plastic, I guess that eliminates the rotor damaged for now. Not quite sure what Open or short to Ground means. A break in the cable? May I ask if you know where the cable from the wheel ends, would there be a contact issue on the other end to the vehicle computer? I could try buying a new sensor (hope they have a return policy! ). Trying to find a cheap multimeter to test if the cable to the wheel has voltage. Wait, Rear left wheel is passenger side or driver side. I checked just the passenger side rear wheel

Just loosened all the nuts and I have angered the sky man. Raining here. This is going to a long day

Sorry. We have been moving houses (way too many clothes and boxes! And the cat ran away on first day giving us a nightmare and came back at midnight!) and this has been moved to lower priority. Thought this warning light will go away on its own after few drives (like last time) but didn’t. I have to attempt at least once before going to a mechanic and say please remove my wheel so I can slightly press on the speed sensor. (Perhaps I have to replace just one in that wheel) I think I was quoted £90 on https://www.fixter.co.uk for replacement of the sensor in 1 wheel. Don’t know how legitimate they are.

Great. Thank you both. I was trying to be brave and studying how to remove the wheel myself. Looks like when we are putting it back on, I need correct torque to be set. I can't just stand on the level to tighten it. Lol. Taking to a garage in thr weekend.

Would appreciate some help please

IMG_0158.HEIC IMG_0161.HEIC IMG_0166.HEIC

We hit a few pot holes in the last couple of drives. 🥴 VCDS reading as below. C101C 14 [137] - Open or Short to Ground Address 03: ABS Brakes (J104) Labels: 1S0-614-517.clb Part No SW: 1S0 614 517 E HW: 1S0 614 517 E Component: EBC 460 ESP H08 0012 Serial number: A00771D Coding: 31BF24718BB002F98CFA24F9D1A94090590100 Shop #: WSC 05072 004 1048576 ASAM Dataset: EV_Brake1ESPMP1TRWVW120 016035 ROD: EV_Brake1ESPMP1TRWVW120.rod VCID: 3169A0C36029531B74-8064 1 Fault Found: 0003 - Rear Left Wheel Speed Sensor C101C 14 [137] - Open or Short to Ground MIL ON - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00000001 Fault Priority: 1 Fault Frequency: 1 Reset counter: 171 Mileage: 111348 km Date: 2024.01.30 Time: 20:10:04 DTC: 00 00 03 Please tell me this is an inexpensive fix! I tried looking at my rear wheel, doesn't seem like a puncture. Not sure what open/Short to Ground means. Would it mean the connector to the sensor might have come undone? I am not able to reach with my hands into the back of the wheel. Looks like the only solution is to remove the wheel which I have never done. there is a screw jack in the back and tools. Worth removing the wheel myself? Any suggestions please? Is there anyone in London that can help out? I am near Wandsworth. Thanks.

Hi, New to car ownership. No warning lights for now. Car is running fine and the only thing we were advised about the "feel of the car" is to change bushes. Looks like a faint knocking sound is coming from the front and a little squeaking when going over bumps. I wanted to be cost effective too, Skoda pricing is eye watering. What are the frequency in services please? Citigo Greentech. Coolant servicing (Level seems fine, does we drain and change this?) Oil change and filter change (How to check if it due?) Kwik fit is asking £87.95, is this okay?) Air filter servicing (How to check if it due?) Tyres - tread check and change - (This is obvious, I have to measure the depth and just choose a service place to change) pollen filter change? (How to check if it due?) Light condensation in the near side front lens. Not sure how to remove it. transmission oil change? (How to check if it due?) Bushes, suspension and anything related to it? (Not sure where to start!) Could someone guide me on the way to check some of these please? Appreciate your time! Thanks, Sid

Thanks will try tomorrow

Take the wheel off? Whoa. I need a torque wrench to put it back. 110 Nm isn’t it? I have the locknut, and factory jack on the spare wheel. I will try asking around if anyone can lend me a wrench. Thanks.