Drewphotoboy

Thanks Pete - that's useful info - so my mistake was leaving it facing uphill in first gear - should have used reverse gear....! Chain and Head cost £1550 all in which seemed pretty reasonable all things considered.

UPDATE / SOLUTION Tested compression - low on cylinder 1, OK-ish on 2 and 3. Towed to mechanic - his analysis was same as here - timing chain jumped. Stripped timing chain, crank out by one or two sprockets. Fitted new timing chain kit. Car started but very uneven, not running - v poor compression on cylinder 1 - fine on cylinder 2 and 3. Head off - valves damaged on cylinder 1 - OK on two and three. Off to engineering shop - head skim and new valves all round - thankfully no damage to guides/seats. Re-built and running sweet. Takeaway: Don't park up hill in gear.... liable to jump timing chain - fix that stretched handbrake cable... After jumping one sprocket car kept running but poor performance, excess fuel consumption and ultimately killed CAT. Thanks again for the helpful advice provided here - spot on!

THnaks to everyone - you've really helped a newbie out here and its appreciated. I'll post back when I have further news...

Thanks - on the way!

Thanks - I will do that....

UPDATE I've had the plugs out and checked TDC as suggested. The cams are both aligned with one another however at TDC they are diagonal (at approximately 7-2 o'clock) rather than dead horizontal (9-3 o'clock). See below (camera is level at TDC - apologies for the distracting bracket in the foreground) So this confirms the problem as you've all advised - timing chain has jumped on crank sprocket. I think it probably jumped a single sprocket a while ago which resulted in incomplete combustion, poor performance and overheating which killed the CAT ? Then this week after parking facing up steep hill and leaving in 1st gear its jumped again to the extent that it won't run. As this is an interference engine this will have probably damaged the valves. I've reviewed GREGSY's experience here: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/497626-has-my-timing-chain-skipped-any-easy-way-to-check/ Given my car is outside on a steep hill and I have no workshop, this kind of repair is beyond me so I'm going to ring round some recomended garages tomorrow. I know in the past that you've advised this kind of fault is probably not worth reparing (2021) https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/498056-skoda-fabia-2003-12-htp-117000-miles-engine-turning-over-quickly-but-not-starting/ Given the current price of second hand cars and the fact I've had the car since new and it's otherwise sound would this still be your advice... ?? Thanks again for all your help in diagnosing this - at least now I know what's wrong despite the challenge of getting this fixed (and I've learned not to park facing uphill and leave in gear....!)

Thanks Chimaera and Pete for advice. So Check TDC myself (and perhaps see if I can get a photo down plug hole to see if any damage). Then tow to garage to check diagnosis and put new timing kit on as its not worth not replacing if stripped down to reset timing. Then fingers crossed...?

Thnaks Chimaera - I was concerned that not reseting system after replacing part might have made the ECU 'unhappy' and caused other problems but clearly not - I think I have the answer (see above)

OK - I've just had the emergency call out guy here: He first reset system and cleared the Cam Fault - when restarted it was still there. He cleared the system again and nothing else was showing but the cam sensor fault He suggested the new sensor was likely fine and the error was due to cam/crank misalignment. He turned the engine over and squirted 'solvent' into the air intake - the engine didn't catch at all. He listened to the engine and felt that the engine turned over too easily and quietly suggesting low compression. Also suggested that if it had previously jumped just one tooth it might still run but burn hot and over time kill the cat. His diagnosis is the same as yours - a timing issue - jumped a few teeth. He suggested: Tow to a nearby garage Strip down timing chain Reset timing (without replacing with new timing kit) to test engine. If engine runs OK fit new kit and all is well. If engine doesn't run due to damaged valves/pistons consider if car is worth spending big money on. I think I might remove plugs and test cam alignment at TDC to double check (he said he wouldn't bother as he is certain this is the issue). This all seems about right to me - any comments....? (And as a newbie thanks for your very helpful advice!)

Thanks again for your help so far... What is your advice as to how I should proceed I only have fairly diy basic skills I could check plugs/cylinder but not about to undertake a rebuild... Am I likely to have damaged the valves? Should I not turn the engine over??

My takeaway here is that leaving car in gear on hill when you've only got drum breaks on rear wheels is a no-no as it too much force will act on timing chain and could cause it to jump or slip??

Quick (posibly stupid) quest - is the cam timing on a belt or a chain on this car??

I think garage were legit and did a good job - I've used them a couple of times before as I visit there frequently, they just forgot to reset the system after quickly fitting the cam sensor before I drove away, this was a last min addition to the job...

So the concensus is the timing is now so far off it won't drive... If this is the case what is your advice as to how I should procedd - I only have fairly basic skills. Also am I likely to have damaged the valves? Should I not turn the engine over??

Hi - Thanks for all your help. I sometimes work away and had the CAT and Sensor replaced while away and then retruned home (100 miles drive) drove around town at low speeds for a day OK then the following morning it wouldn't start.