Scoo123

So today - following on from a wasted trip to a breakers for ‘a complete clutch pedal assembly’ only to find a pedal and nothing else, not least the willingness to get rest off whilst I waited - I reassembled the original pedal. Only this time I packed everything out with multipurpose grease and voila, as we speak, no clicking. Whether this will be the end of the issue remains to be seen but one observation is you can still feel a ‘nick’ if you put your finger on the side of the master cylinder pushrod retaining clip whilst moving the pedal in and out. We shall see…

Yes, that’s what I’ve changed today. I’m not living in fear of impending doom in any sense other than I may lose my sanity if - having put up with it since I bought the car in April and had the pedal in bits three times (so far) - iit doesn’t get resolved imminently. I’ll be doing something like 1k miles in it next week, hence why the pedal is currently dismantled on the floor and I’ll be getting another complete - personally tested to make sure it’s click free - assembly for it from a breakers tomorrow even if it kills me!

Does anyone know if the clutch pedal / box etc are the same on all Mk2s as I think the definitive way to sort this is to replace the lot. And if so, is anyone breaking a Mk2 in Kent. Thanks

I’ve just moved the pedal a few times whilst touching various parts and it’s the clip / end of the pushrod. This is OE, sourced from the main dealer and in any case the click never went away when it was installed. So… is it possible the end of the pushrod has worn? Car has done 135k TIA

The dreaded clicking clutch pedal. First I changed the master cylinder pushrod retaining clip on the pedal. No change. I’ve just changed the spring… no change. As it’s doing my head in other than when I turn the stereo up, any suggestions as to what else it could be - the pedal itself? TIA

Update on mine… Has done the one solitary ‘cough’ in the past few weeks. Power wise it seems to be showing some consistency. Boot it through the lower gears and it pulls like a train right through to the redline. But if you do the same in 4th, as in where it’s taking longer for the car to pull through the rev range, it’ll normally get to just over 4k and the power will notably dip. Once it’s done this, the power goes to its wafty place from about 3.5k onwards. The car feels slightly less responsive as well after this. Flicking the key to reset everything changes nothing (unlike on the older 1.9 PDs where it got rid of limp mode). Leave the car parked up and go back to it, all back to how it should be. So… it appears prolonged running at higher revs under load is when this kicks in is the cause. Question is, why? More exhaust gases than the DPF or a pressure sensor can deal with when under prolonged high load? Injector(s), a sensor or something else electrical malfunctioning due to being unable to cope with being under prolonged load? Turbo VNT - do they ever get sticky on these? EGR? Be nice to find out what it is. The new exhaust pressure sensor I ordered weeks ago is still sat in it’s wrapper so maybe changing that would be a good start…

Is yours the same all the time or just when the power loss kicks in? S'ok, we can form a victim support group. I've just had another thought... do these suffer with MAF issues? Fairly sure that wouldn't be causing the symptoms mines showing but it could be a factor.

Morning We code scanned the car when it first did the random misfire - sometimes it's literally one 'cough' when it's been driven less than a mile from cold and it showed a voltage issue on injector number one. Cleared that and no more have been generated since. It may be a red herring as I stupidly didn't make a note of the date it was logged. So anyway, we pondered injector loom at the time but as above, it's not shown it since on the rare occasion it's done that. As an aside, have you looked into what's involved in changing that on the CRs, only we did and it doesn't appear to be a simple unplug and swap out like the PD one is. My idle is always as it should be so unlikely to be the same thing as yours methinks. Not had the power dip / loss thing specifically on hills - more power loss in specific circumstances as above. Reading up elsewhere last night I found some reporting EGR issues on the CR. Whatever, these are definitely more of an enigma than the good old 1.9 130s that I've had in various VAG cars in the past when it comes to tracing faults like this (and they had less of them in the first place...).

Anyone? I'm changing the Exhaust Pressure sensor tomorrow whatever given how cheap and easy it is to do but fairly certain this is down to more than one issue.

I'm aware there are a few threads on here regarding power loss on the CEGA (I believe that's the engine I have - 2011 VRS 2.0 TDI CR) but I can't find anything which gives a definitive pointer as to what's happening with my car, so I'll list all off and hope you'll take mercy on me. Problem 1: Occasionally misfires when cold. Might be just the one cough or has been known to do it on and off for a few miles once or twice. On one occasion I was coming gently out of a roundabout and it cut out and with the glowplug light flashing. Problem 2: Power loss. The car has been mapped (before my time and no dyno printout). Has bags of power. When running 100% it'll push you right back in your seat as the bulk of it comes in. Pulls well round right through the upper rev range. Then there are the occasions where the power feels like it comes in a lot softer - the car is still brisk but nowhere near has pokey as before. Then you start to get what feel like flat spots around and about 4k rpm and, if on an autobahn (honest) and at higher speeds in 5th and 6th it'll feel like it's not keen to pick up any more speed. In some ways it feels like a loss of boost. I've had it where it's been driven at higher speeds and the flatness has kicked in when you've come off a motorway or whatever and the generally subdued feeling remains if you put your foot down in the lower gears. I've also had it where it's done this kind of thing and I've cruised along gentle speeds for a while. Stopped at a junction, pull away and it's been trying the spin the front wheels up in second more than ever. It's been code scanned today. Nothing. I've seen a few posts which suggest one issue could be with the injectors. Drive it sensibly and you get 55mpg out it, so still likely to be those? I've seen mention of the DPF Exhaust Pressure Sensor. Do these ever suffer with EGR issues. Thank you in advance for any pointers you can give as it's ruining an otherwise great car for me.

Afternoon all. I recently replaced all the arms on the back end of my VRS. Reason being that when we under the car investigating why it felt like it was all over the road on rough surfaces, we found quite a few of the bushes were starting to go and I figured it better to replace the whole lot. It's since been to be aligned and it couldn't be done because the washers for the camber bolts had seen better days. So a set of those later and they've managed to dial most things in bar the rear right will not run any less than 3 degrees of negative camber. I was shown how turning the camber bolt beyond a certain point did nothing on that side whereas the one on the left still changed the camber. I bought the car a few months ago and it had recent tyres on the rear. Both fronts had worn inside edges so suspect they may have originally been on the rear so for all I know it's nothing to do with the bits we've fitted and everything to do with an issue the previous owner hid up. So... before I pull it apart again, could it be something like the hole the bolt goes through in the subframe is damaged / worn? Any other ideas? All arms etc are installed correctly etc. TIA for any light anyone can shed.