Riddley

Mate at work has a six speed Tsi Golf (not sure what size though) and that has a totally different shift assembly. Sorry, I know that's not much help. Best bet is to look at the various photos you can find with a forum search or a google search then get your head under the bonnet and compare. Once you know what you are looking for it is fairly obvious if yours is the same or not.

Don't make the mistake I made in getting the Golf R shifter. Looking on other forums it looked like a shorter throw than the TTS. On fitting however the post that the cable attaches to is thicker than the Skoda part. I simply had to enlarge the hole in the plastic end part of the cable but it was a bit of an arse-ache that wouldn't be necessary had I opted for the TTS part like everyone else. Oh, and the Golf R one doesn't feel that different to the original, lol. Never mind, you live and learn! As for standard fitment stuff affecting other VAG sales, you only have to look at the Air-con 'off' switch mod. They actually produced a separate part in order to disable an existing function, bizarre.

I have what looks to be the same problem. Posted about it here My link Despite all the respray scare stories I put it down to flexing of the vehicle body under spirited driving. As rich453 says, there is a sealant strip here which will be naturally more flexible than the paint/laquer. Once you know they are there it's annoying but hopefully there are no long term implications.

I have the same problem on my Mk2 Octavia in the same place. I posted about it in the Octy 2 section (search didn't find this post). Out of warranty unfortunately but I'm going to see what the dealer says about the situation.

Cheers for the replies guys. Looks like the same problem Hearny has. Didn't find that post using the search, thanks Minimoke. As for the other marks on the paintwork, that's poor prep from me I'm afraid, they're just watermarks because I was half way through cleaning when I took the photos, they've all gone now. Alberg, the mark near the windscreen is the adhesive from when I had the windscreen replaced due to delamination. You had me panicking there, lol.

Hope it's not a respray, got it as ex-demonstrator from Skoda dealer, a hidden history would be a nasty surprise. I guess a phonecall may be in order.

Cleaning the car today I noticed that the paint at the edges of the roof, where the sides of the car join, had started to crack (the inner corner of the step that runs from the top corners of the windscreen to the back window). They are only tiny cracks looking a bit like old paintwork on dried up wood where it cracks and starts to lift, but there are a lot of them. Anyone else experienced this? I'm hoping it's only cosmetic, I'd hate to think it was a deeper problem caused by flexing or something. Sorry if this makes little sense, the pictures will hopefully make it clearer. This is the area in question And these are the cracks It's hard to make them out on the picture but they are like small cracks in the laquer. They are on both sides of the car and they are dotted along the whole length of each side.

Last year, standard Tfsi Vrs, kept on military base, Esure; £400 fully comp. This year, price comparison website, declared re-map and no longer kept on base; £800-£900 fully comp. Seriously reconsidering choice of car. Back to Esure for renewal quote, re-map and no longer under armed guard; £390 - go figure.

I remember reading something about vibration. Can't say I've noticed anything out of the ordinary since fitting, so far anyway, lol.

Just for anyone else having this problem; did you loosen the entire torque arm? I only ask because I had exactly the same problem. Tried to cut corners( figuratively, not literally in this case) and make the job easier, loads of fairy liquid, trolley jack, hammer, everything. A couple of hours, a torrent of swearwords and a cup of tea later, started from scratch, removed both torque arm bolts (so arm rattled about freely) and insert slid all the way in. Bolts replaced and tightened, job's a good un! (Forgot to say - I put the insert in the freezer for a couple of hours which probably made fitting easier too)

Cheers Pete. It would seem that side-to-side doesn't make that much difference but it is my understanding that to get the Forge kit to work properly on the later spec models both parts must be fitted. There seem to be complications if just front-to-back is fitted. I'd hate to shell out over £150 for a single part when I know a fully adjustable 2-piece set-up can be had for the same price, lol.

Cheers wega. I'm just thinking for that price I could have the whole Forge setup rather than just the front to back that the Neuspeed provides

Apologies if I'm repeating anything here but an afternoon with the search tool has proved fruitless. I'm looking at getting a short shifter (Forge, Neuspeed, VAG??) for a 56 plate 2.0 Tfsi Vrs. The problem is there seems to have been a change of design mid 2006. Thanks to a very helpful chat with JKM (cheers chaps), I have established that mine has the later design (plastic where the two shift brackets interact as opposed to metal) which I am advised leads to problems with the Forge front-to-back bracket. From what I can gather Neuspeed seems to be OK but pricey, VAG cheaper but not as effective and Forge OK if both shifters are fitted therefore bringing the price back up to Neuspeed territory. The upshot is, I was wondering if anyone has any recommendations/ horror stories/ happy endings regarding short shift kits and 2006.5 onwards 2.0 TFSI VRS's.

Does anyone know of a decent Skoda breaker, preferably in the North East area? Some drunken arse decided it would be a laugh to mess with my windscreen wipers and just kept pulling until the drivers side snapped off near the base. £50 part from Skoda and unavailable from aftermarket dealers. Bloody fuming doesn't even begin to describe my mood at the moment, especially since I've got loads of miles to do over the next week or two in the snow and the ice and the salt and the sleet, grrrrrrrrrr! Cheers Kev

I've always been careful to warm up engines before thrashing after my days working on 2-strokes. Ready to be shot down in flames but I believe it has to do with the thermal expansion of the metals in the block. As the piston has less mass than the engine block it expands quicker than the surrounding cylinder resulting in scoring of the liner or even total siezure. I have also been told by an engineer about water cooling to combat oil burning in the turbo, negating the need for turbo timers etc. Does anybody know if VAG engines employ water cooling for the turbo, specifically the Octy2 VRS?

Hey up, been vistiting this site for a while and as a result ended up with a nice red Octy2 VRS a few weeks back. Loving every minute of it. I'm new to the Cambridgeshire area and the VRS has been a brilliant way to find my way around! P.S. Anyone want to buy a Pug 206 Gti, it's going spare now I've got the Octy!