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I have some plastic trim removal tools that I usually use for opening PCs and electronic devices, and I was thinking of using them for this. The problem is, I don’t know exactly where to insert them, and as I mentioned, I really want to avoid breaking anything in such an important part of the car. I understand you might suggest that I look for videos on YouTube again, but as I already said, there’s nothing specific for the Skoda Scala. That part is different on every car. Sorry if I sound a bit clumsy — maybe you could just reassure me about what to do. I really don’t feel like going back to the dealership to let them charge me €100 for this nonsense…

@Aldfort you’re right, but to be honest, I’d completely forgotten about it, as I never actually found the video I’d been told to look for. Unfortunately, there’s nothing specific to my car on YouTube. That’s why I’m looking for something else now. If a moderator happens to read this, they can go ahead and delete that old post—it’s a bit outdated, let’s say. This one is more complete; I’ve even uploaded a video to go with it.

Hi everyone, I have an annoying issue with my Skoda Scala (manual gearbox). Whenever I move the gear lever to the left (towards 1st or reverse), there’s a terrible squeaking noise, like something is rubbing or creaking under the plastic trim. The dealership already lubricated it once, about six months ago, and that solved it temporarily - but the noise is back again. So I’d really like to fix it myself this time. If I understood correctly, I should be able to detach the plastic trim plate around the gear lever, but I can’t figure out how to do it without breaking anything. I looked for videos online, but couldn’t find anything clear specifically for the Scala. Does anyone know how to lift or unclip that trim safely? Do I need any special tools, or just careful leverage in the right spot? I’m attaching a video of the squeak and a photo of the area, so maybe someone can mark exactly where I should work or apply lubricant. Thanks a lot in advance for your help. IMG_8616_edited.MOV

I finally managed to change the battery serial number on the control unit, not by activating the OBDeleven PRO subscription, which I believe costs around € 60 a year, but by going to a Volkswagen workshop and accessing it through ODIS. Total cost: € 30. And that’s the end of this annoying business… 🙂

To clear any doubts, I’m opening a ticket on the ODBeleven forum. This is exactly the kind of situation where I’m already wondering if I wouldn’t have been better off going straight to an auto electrician… 😑

This evening I carried out a new test with ODBeleven and noticed that, while driving, the voltage stayed at around 12.5 V. In my opinion, that’s not a normal value. On the few occasions when I was coasting, I recorded readings of about 14.3 V. This leads me to think that something isn’t working properly, most likely linked to the fact that I haven’t yet registered the new battery – which could make sense. On this point, I tried exploring the various “Applications” of ODBeleven 3 through the iOS app, but I realised that they’re paid and need to be activated individually. For example, the Battery Capacity application costs 30 units (I’m not quite sure whether they’re credits or something else), and the same applies to Battery Type. What I haven’t managed to figure out, however, is where the battery’s serial number should be entered. That part isn’t clear to me. Just to clarify, the app I’m using is ODBeleven, which is different from ODBeleven VAG. Lastly, I ran an error scan and several alerts came up. The next step will therefore be to check whether, and to what extent, they might be related to the battery issue, even though the battery itself has just been replaced.

Super useful! Thank you very much.

Oh, that’s interesting. I wonder if my OBDeleven 3 can register the new battery on its own. That would be great! It would save me a trip to the auto electrician. Do you happen to know?

Good morning, I’d like to update you on the situation. I’ve purchased an ODBeleven device to monitor voltage while driving and to better understand the car’s behaviour. From the initial tests I’ve found that at start-up the voltage stays at 12.8 V, shortly after setting off it settles around 13 V and, during acceleration, it tends to fluctuate between 13 V and 13.5 V. When I lift off the accelerator, for example downhill or when the car is coasting, the value rises to 15 V. In light of these measurements, it seems I can rule out any issues related to the alternator. What do you think?

Here in Rome unfortunately I haven’t been as lucky. Oh well… I just hope it won’t cost me more than 15 euros 😅

I’ve read your reply with great interest. Thank you for your very valuable contribution! So do you think that even without doing anything, the ECU would still be able to figure out what happened? Anyway, just to be sure, I think I’ll drop by an auto electrician tomorrow.

I see. Then I guess I really need to go to an auto electrician… Unfortunately not, I’m writing from Italy!

But what exactly do you tell the ECU? That the brand has changed? The capacity is the same. That now it’s charged, while before it had memorized it was discharged? Could you explain this to me a bit better? Thanks.

Uhmm… actually no. I just installed the same type of battery. By doing so, the seller told me it wasn’t necessary to update the ECU.

Hi everyone, I’ve just replaced the battery on my Skoda Scala with a Varta Dynamic EFB N50 (50Ah 12V 550A). The original factory battery lasted me 4,5 years and about 60,000 km. At the end it dropped to 11.5 V and the car wouldn’t start anymore. After installing the new one I did a quick test with a multimeter: engine running at idle, voltage stays around 12.5 V constant, it doesn’t go higher. I was expecting the usual 13.8 - 14.5 V that typically means the alternator is charging properly. At the moment I don’t notice any strange symptoms: no warning lights, no error codes, lights and electronics are fine, car starts without problems. Do you think this is normal behavior of the Scala’s energy management system (charging in steps), or could it be that the alternator isn’t doing its job? Has anyone else measured similar values on their Scala? Thanks!

Hi everyone, I’m considering installing a dashcam on my Škoda Scala and was wondering if anyone here has already done it. How did the installation go? Was your installer able to route and hide the cables cleanly? Would love to hear your experience or see photos if you have any. Thanks!

Thanks @nta16, much appreciated. I’ll try to find one of those videos. I’d like to get a good look at what to expect first, as the last thing I want is to snap one of those clips.

Does anyone know how to access the base of the gear stick? I need to lubricate it a bit because it’s creaking, but I’ve no idea how to open it without breaking everything… Thanks.

Same thing for me. However, I was reading on a forum in my country that many people have this issue with the Scala. It seems to stem from a design flaw in the bonnet.

Thanks, everyone. I’d say we can wrap it up here for now. I’ll find a local body shop that specialises in detailing and see what they suggest, also to refresh the bodywork, as the car is now four years old, even though it has only 50,000 km. I’ll post an update here when I have more news. Thanks again!

Guys, I really appreciate this valuable exchange. I’m not in the field; for example, I’ve only just discovered that there’s a transparent layer over the paint. So, thank you for the information you’re sharing with me. To answer directly, I’ve never had my car polished. So, I assume the clear coat is still as good as new. If I’ve understood correctly, there might be a chemical method to test before going to a body shop to ask about a solution? Because it would also be good to understand how much they’d charge. If they ask for €500… well, I might just leave it as it is. Also, I doubt anyone would polish just that one part—they’d probably use the opportunity to suggest polishing the whole car. A sort of “all or nothing” deal.

I’m just trying to explain myself as clearly as possible so you can understand exactly what I’ve tried. Come on, be patient with me 🙂 Here are the photos. Ignore the halos around the stain—they’re just soap residues that I didn’t rinse off properly half an hour ago. The stain is slightly rough, almost imperceptible. It practically has no thickness. When running a finger over it, you can only feel the transition from smooth (paint) to slightly rough, but there’s no significant thickness, just to be clear.

First of all, thanks to everyone for the great suggestions. I’ve just done a few tests with what I had in the garage, applying it directly to the stain: Repeatedly rinsed with warm water for several minutes to soften it. Tried cleaning the area with a microfibre cloth, but no luck. Then I used a Ma-Fra product called Waterless, essentially a car polish, but nothing. I applied it several times, but no result. After that, I tried an Arexons product for resin and insects. The packaging mentioned active foam. I let it sit for a minute, but again, no luck. Now I’m heading out to take a photo or video of the stain so you can get a better idea of what we’re dealing with.

I’ve switched to Fuelio to log my fuel stops. Better than nothing. The real shame is that Skoda hasn’t provided any way to export all the data recorded over the years on Connect Lite. Truly a crappy move.

I have some polish, but I haven’t tried using it because I’m afraid to rub, even with cotton wool. The stain is on the front hood, off to the side. I’m worried I might make a mess… I was hoping to apply something chemical that could dissolve it. I think I’ve already tried using a warm/hot water compress in the past, but it didn’t work.