cjmason88

Hi Graham, thanks for the detailed reply! I have a topdon scanner and also utilised one that a mobile mechanic had - no joy on either. I've checked the port again today and I'm seeing 3.4v on the k-line pin instead of the expected 12v. The handbrake light is also now flashing when I turn the key, but that might have been cos I was checking fuses! I have an offer from someone who lives nearby with vcds, so will see if it will talk to that!

Hi, am hoping to connect to @Scout66 as you show in the original list as having a connection in Swindon. If that's correct, would you have anytime soon for me to borrow your cable for 5 mins to see if my car will connect? Currently has a k-line issue so normal scanners won't connect. It's a fabia 2010. Many thanks!

I have a Topdon AL400 (which is compatible with the k-line diagnostics) but it's not being detected when plugged in (but is on the other car, so I know it works). I have a suspicion that when the ignition barrel was changed by the previous owner (at a garage) before I bought it, they damaged one of the wires. I think I might need to go down the route of an auto-elec to diagnose the fault. I don't have the expertise to work out what's wrong with it and I don't want to butcher the wiring in an attempt to find out what went wrong! I think it's a damaged cable somewhere that has caused a canbus short (resulting in the 2 lines having 2.5v each plus the resistance of 64/65). If anyone has any suggestions on companies/individuals in the swindon area that can properly diagnose/fix this fault, please do let me know!

Just checked the system again, both CANBUS pins are showing EXACTLY 2.5v when the system is active (key turned, radio on, engine off) and also inactive (key out). I'm led to believe that there should be a very slight voltage difference (2.7/2.3) between the 2? If this is the case and this is the issue, any recommendations on how to fix?

I've done some multimeter checks today. Pins 4/5 > 16 show roughly 12.4/12.5v (expected). Canbus shows 2.5v (expected) 6 > 14 resistance check is 65 (higher than expected, norm 60/61) Would the 65 be an indication of a problem somewhere? The port has power on all the pins I would expect, but perhaps there is a small issue further upstream which is causing it to not connect? If all else fails I will ask an auto electrician to have a look - hopefully they will have more tools and experience with this sort of thing!

Well that seems a bit stupid tbh! You would think they would put a RHD diagram on the cover... Thank you!

Well to flog the dead horse somewhat, the ABS light pinged up today (first time ever). Scanner doesn't connect still. What I HAVE noticed though is that my fuse strip next to the ODB port seems to be the wrong way round to the diagram on the back of the panel (and the diagram link above) - the fatter fuses are to the left and the smaller ones to the right (which doesnt correlate to the diagram). Is this potentially the reason why nothing is working (because someone in the past has 'fiddled' and put it back incorrectly)?

I had a look the other day, all wires look fine and I made sure they were all pressed home as much as I could. I will check the readouts when I dig my multimeter out.

Whats the replacement procedure for the fuel filter? I also have a weird judder/power loss when accelerating, usually around 3k rpm. Got a 2010 1.2, 71k miles. No idea on when the filter was last changed but everything else was done a few months ago (oil,air,pollen).

Nope it's the bog-standard CD player jobby, nothing aftermarket in the entire car! I could disconnect the fuse for the radio and see if that makes a difference?

I've tried 2 different scanners and they both failed to connect. Haven't checked the battery but I do have a multimeter in a box I can dig out!

I have a 2010 Fabia 1.2 and the ODB port isn't playing ball. Tried 2 different scanners and they both fail to auth with the ECU. I initially thought it might be a bad fuse so I replaced num 22, didnt change a thing. Slipped the port out of the dash and made sure that the wires are fully seated in the connector, no change. I've tried with electrics on and also engine on, doesn't make a difference. Does anybody have any suggestions on what to look for next?

So it turns out I was slightly incorrect - all I could purchase was a service plan, not the all-in-one plan (so I'm slightly disappointed!). The private plate isn't year dated.

So - I bought my Karoq back in Jan and it came with 1 year of warranty/breakdown etc under their all-in plan. I've since applied a private plate onto the car and when went to check to see if I could get this new 2 year plan under the cheaper price (so I could extend the warranty for another 2 years), it allowed me to do so. I have a feeling they haven't linked the plate change to the current service plan, which is why it's allowing me to take out a new plan (even though the current one lasts for another 2 months). Do you reckon they will catch onto this, or just allow it? I've been able to progress up to the point of entering my DD details, so I'm guessing not! I'm hoping that when I next take it for a service, the old plan would have expired and the new plan would be in place.

Interestingly, I had CrossClimate 2's fitted on Sat, but they were 215/50R18 (to match what was fitted previously). Is the 225 a better fit for the 18" wheel? Can't say they offer better grip yet as only driven about 20 odd miles but so far so good!