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I've been looking and looking and looking for TPI 2037419 / 11 but seems this has been replaced by a 2037419/12 from 06/09/2017 There is a copy online (in russian) at the online ELSA site, Chrome or Google Translate will get you an English (ish) copy. https://superetka.com/elsa/hst/src/5d/1139805/master.html I was going to post begging if anyone had a copy so I hope this helps someone. I'm guessing we aren't allowed to just post the whole thing in here?

There is no way to check it. The procedure is to drain it into a measuring jug, then pour back in after topping up to the correct amount. There is no dipstick or hole to fill up to as in the old days.

Yeah it's not difficult, without looking it up again: Remove Air Filter to get better access Fuel pipes unclip by lifting the bracket off the cover. Undo the screw at the top and a clip front and back and cover lifts off. You can use a spanner on the crank shaft pulley I think to turn the engine. I don't bother just have a look at condition each year but mine has only done 40k. I'd make sure you keep everything clean, don't want to get any dirt or grease on the belt. Try not to touch or wear gloves etc.

I've only ever heard of them being replaced when they fail. They are basically an pair of coils to replace the old style ignition coil. As long as they are functioning correctly I would save my money, they aren't a wear item like a spark plug is.

Hi All, Hoping someone has some experience they may share. My mother has a 2010 Yeti, it ran fine yesterday but today logs P0341 (or PO341). My googling suggests Crankshaft Position Sensor but also suggests it should run. It's been quite rattly over the last few months which I'd advised her to take it in and talk about the TSB as it's the 1.2 TSI but we don't think it's been done before. Anyone any thoughts? Is this the symptoms of the cam chain stretch / jump? The cam does appear to be going round at least so not snapped. It sounds like it is turning more smoothly / no compression if I had to describe it. I've checked the fuses. Can't hear a fuel pump on turning on the ignition but don't know if that's normal for it or not as it's not my car. I'm guessing it's call the dealer in the morning but thought I would ask. Thanks Chris.

Yeah that matches my reading of the haynes diagram and sitting down there with a meter between it and the chassis. It runs fine most of the time which is just odd I read that imobiliser error out after driving home from work with the engine still running. What I was seeing when testing was that turning the ignition on and letting it prime for a few seconds it would turn the pump off, cycling the ignition again it does the same thing, but after 2 or 3 cycles the fuel pump (and relay) no longer come on. Though testing the other day with it hot the engine would start even though the fuel pump would not come on when it was switched on. I guess next time it refuses to start I need to pull out the code reader and see if that Immobiliser code comes back, perhaps cleaning the contacts on the pickup coil and the immobiliser coil have done the trick. It's more annoying as undiagnosed electrical faults usually come back to haunt me at the wrong moments (like half way round a roundabout in rush hour lol) Thanks for digging that info out. I'm guessing there is not a lot of info on the immobiliser circuits in the documents. Hopefully it'll be something simple when it comes to it Cheers!

I picked up the lights one when it packed up from the local VW garage (no Skoda dealer near) and I think it was about £6.90, so may be worth getting a quote for the genuine parts if they are pretty cheap. Skoda bits often seem to be quite sensible compared to some makes

I can confirm the VAG 405 MaxiScan that I picked up for £44 inc next day postage on ebay worked for me (as I ignored the Haynes advice to disconnect the battery). That's on a 2000 1.3 MPI, the connector being in the drivers side footwell. Into airbag screen, read codes, and it displayed 2 unknown codes (I didn't look them up), just cleared them and a few seconds later the airbag light went out.

I once asked what 'should' have been on a service after the dealer I bought mine from told me that it was normal for the oil to be black after a service and that "the oil filters came from the factory with mud on..." I've always used it as a good guide for what/when things need doing. I'm not sure if this link will work but here goes... If not I can send you another link. Felicia Service Schedule If you have the MPI then I think timing etc is all fixed in the ECU so nothing to change. I'd buy the Haynes manual for the bit of extra guidance and the recommended order in which to do each valve, saves a few rotations of the engine. A socket on the crankshaft pulley with the cover by the drivers side wheel removed if you still have it on works for me - just remember to remove it before starting afterwards, I always forget!

The last few years I've found Admiral way cheaper than anyone else, with Aviva second this year... I've only got a bog standard Felicia though. May be worth trying, I think they do vans as well. A mate of mine who works for them told me that LV were good for modified vehicles and had got quite a lot of the Scooby people coming to them, may have changed again now. They have always been really expensive for me. All my quotes last month seemed to have gone up loads so the bad news is it looks like we are being expected to take huge hikes in insurance and pay cuts :-( *sigh*

Great, thanks. Have picked up a Maxscan VAG405, that has got rid of the Airbag light. Has given me 2 codes from the engine. 17978 -163 KWP1281 and 00522 -158 KWP1281 From what I can see the 522 code means the temperature sensor is likely to be dead. I've read they do fail so will get on to that and replace it, easy enough job. The other is (I think) an imobiliser error, would I be right in thinking that this error means that at some point the imobiliser has been activated and prevented a start or does it mean that it is currently activated? RE the wiring diagrams, is an original one available anywhere? I did buy a manual CD from ebay but it appears to only cover the felicia 1.6 not the 1.3, unless I'm being blind Thanks for the comments on the fuel pump, a little more insight is good. As for the carlsberg, would probably fix the problem for me too, at least stop me noticing it if I'd had to much to drive :-) Cheers!

Thanks! Glad I'm not too far off the mark... I've had a look at those connectors and they looked ok to me (have been given a squirt of contact cleaner too since then). Nothing nasty and white or similar in there. What I don't get is it usually cycles a couple of times ie first and second power on, but not subsequent which I think it always used to. The relay doesn't click there after so it's not the pump that's not doing it's thing as it is unpowered. Turning the ignition off for a couple of minutes seems to reset whatever it is, but that doesn't mean much to me, I was wondering if there was a sensor that told the ECU the fuel line was pressurised but the pressure relief valve appears to be purely mechanical, I'm going to see the local garage that was the Skoda dealer tomorrow in the hope that perhaps they still have someone from their Skoda days there (they lost their dealership when Skoda decided everyone had to have the big shiny new showrooms in the early 00s). Otherwise I guess maybe the VW dealers will have seen something similar with the Caddy (I'm on the Isle of Man so the nearest Skoda dealer is now an 8 hour and £170+ ferry ticket away) I've also got a VAG-COM cable on the way in the hope that there may be a tell-tale error in there somewhere. I actually like my Felicia, nobody else does but I think it is much better to drive than many other similar small cars I have tried. Anyway thanks for the info, much appreciated.

Hi All, My first post so I hope I don't upset anyone! I'm been bashing my head on a problem with a 1.3 Felica MPI not starting (sometimes). When it won't start it doesn't seem to turn the fuel pump on. Leaving it several minutes usually cures the problem and it will start. Turning the ignition on the fuel pump seems to prime for about 10 seconds and turn off. It will do this 2 or 3 times usually and then doesn't come on any more until left for several minutes. From the wiring diagrams (Haynes) it appears that the ECU grounds the fuel pump relay, causing it to close and power the pump (and injectors etc). When the pump doesn't run it appears that this (if I remember right the blue wire on AA) stays ungrounded. I've done what I think is obvious which was to change the relay. I've also checked and cleaned the connections on the ECU and the Imobiliser box behind the clocks. I can't find any description of what / why the fuel pump is controlled like it is, does it just run for 10 seconds and then the ECU turns it off until the engine turns over or is a sensor involved? Has anyone seen something like this before of have any thoughts on this? Many thanks in advance, if I've missed a posting covering this (I have searched honest guv!) please point me in the direction :-) Cheers, Chris