Mbn42

I ran a new wire from the fuse box to the fan. It should be of an appropriate gauge (25amp), and obviously ensure fuse is still in the circuit. Working fine new.

Thanks very much! That is very helpful. In the last picture I posted, you can see the 10 way connector where the wire colours change in the top right corner. I pulled that apart, no corrosion, same problem with the lower voltage. My job for the weekend will be to run a new wire with a fuse to the fan and see if that resolves the problem. Any suggestions on where I should tap the positive from?

2014 Full details: Year: 2014 Make: SKODA Model: SUPERB Colour: BLACK Submodel: 125KW4X4ELEGANCEW 2. Body Style: Station Wagon VIN: TMBMF93T1E9011439 Engine No: CFG385324 CC rating: 1,968cc (2.0l) Fuel Type: Diesel Drive: 4WD

Are there any relays or other devices between the fuse box and the blower fan that people are aware of? I haven't found a free wiring diagram for the Skoda Superb II, and if I did, I might struggle to work out what it means!

If there was a wire chaffed like shown in this other post, could that be a potential cause consistent with low and variable voltage?

Good suggestion. It is definitely the positive wire (red/white). I have a feeling if I ran a new positive line with a fuse to the connector and cut it in, it would be easier than taking off all the dash to try snd find the problem. Unless there is a known problem or component that I should be looking for? I should note that the lower voltage I see at the red/white wire is constantly bouncing around by 0.2 volts or more. Not sure what it means.

The resistor unit is in the pic below, bolted to the fan unit. The brown and red/white wires in the plug (other pic) should have 12 volts all the time I think (but don’t) and the climate control buttons in the cab, when adjusted, send a different voltage signal to the resistor unit. I have verified that the voltage for one of the thin wires in the plug changes as climate control buttons are adjusted. I also think that if the resistor unit fails, the fan should work if put on full speed? Which it doesn’t. that leaves me thinking there is a problem between the fuse box and the plug connection. I’ve gone one step back in the loom to check the last section of wiring is ok, seems fine.

Attached some pics of diagnostics, correct voltage at fuse, low voltage at connection

The blower fan was not working. Fuse ok, so pulled out the fan to replace. I tested fan by connecting to 12 volts from battery, it was ok. This is where I got out my multimeter. I have low voltage at the main wires for the blower fan. I have full voltage at the fuse, and confirmed I had the correct fuse (removing fuse makes voltage go to zero). I can’t see any wire damage, wiggling wires has no effect on voltage. So, is there some resettable fuse or other device between the fuse box and the blower motor that could be faulty?

Hello, Site has been useful before, but sometimes you get to a point where you need to be a member!