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All sorted. Bumper off, radiator and AC removed, allowing full access. Drilled, tapped and removed with bolt and slide hammer. Expensive fix but these things happen. My observation is that the aluminium body oxidised and reacted with engine casting to seize. After replacing sensor, at least my ACC now works, which was the reason replacing in first instance.

Does anyone have any experience with replacing oil pressure regulator on Octavia Mkiii 1.6 TDI? I’ve actually tried removing, but have snapped the body off. I took it to friends garage this afternoon and they too also struggled to remove remaining bit stuck in engine. The insert would just not budge. I’m in some serious trouble any help guidance really appreciated!

Hi, sorry to hear you are experiencing similar symptoms. I seem to have resolved the issue by replacing my vacuum hoses from the compressor to N75 valve and N75 to turbo actuator. The system had been leak tested on multiple occasions by garages plus I performed vacuum teats myself but no issues. However, the majority of forum and posts indicated an issue with vacuum lines so I replaced anyway. When I was removing the the vacuum line to the N75 I discovered a very loose fit, which I have not necessarily proved to be the issue. However, the hoses were replaced 6 weeks ago and I have yet to see the fault again. Hope this helps a little. I too began to think about ECU but felt needed to stick with the basics in the first instance. FYI: When idling and coil light flashing, my turbo actuator would fluctuate between 0v and approx. 3.6v. However, with no fault, actuator voltage was stable at 0.664v

FYI: N75 valve replaced by Skoda garage in February 2024

Problem still hasn’t gone away. However, observed fluctuating actuator arm at idle the other day. Measured vacuum from N75 valve and appears to be fluctuating. Actuator seems to hold vacuum without decay. Wiggled electrical connector to N75 valve and it seemed to induce fault. Pulled out ferrules and check contacts. Seemed a little loose, modified to improve contact. Wire water ingress bungs didn’t seem to be fully located either. Rectified. No faults so far. 4 days!

Hi, had a couple of instances when I have observed my temperature gauge exceed 90 degrees C when accelerating and then dropping back down to 90. I can maintain 90 by not accelerating hard. Seems to have happened after sitting in slow traffic for 5-10 minutes. Sorts itself out when out of traffic. Octavia 1.6 TDI MK3 110,000k. Could it be sign of water pump going? Coolant level fine. No codes reported on VCDS. Thanks

It’s a damp morning, will see if I have a problem this morning.

I think it was damaged by a broken push in cable tie. This cable sits right under the engine cover, so if not secured with the cable tie it could get crushed. I’ve temporarily repaired each wire with electrical insulation tape and joined. I will look at removing wires from connector and fitting heat shrink for a more robust repair. Plus fit a new cable tie clip. If it sorts the issue I wouldn’t have needed to spend £2.5k on new turbo!

Just taken a look at wire harness to turbo actuator and found damage to wire insulation. Could this be the cause of the intermittent turbo fault? It always seemed to be prevalent in wet and damp conditions!

Thanks. I'll take a look at VCDS and capture temperature.

Thanks for the link, maybe something to explore. However, I ran further tests and diganostics at the weekend and observed the flashing glow plug light again but then a solid engine mangement light also came on. I also observed a new fault code P0299. The turbo functioned correctly and the raw voltage was stable during this time. I'm looking to change the boost pressure sensor after reading a few posts but I'm not holding my breath. The next day I ran the car and there were no longer engine mangment lights BUT the tempertaure coolant gauage increased above 90°C when accelerating hard and then dropped back to 90°C when cruising and at idle. The drivers blowers also don't feel warm when cranked up but the passenger side does! Could this be linked or is this just another issue? Thermostat, heating matrix, water pump......... Drove today and the flashing glow plug light has retunred and will not reset when engine turned off.

Thanks, I'm not 100% sure what was fitted but I will discuss with the garage and see how to progress.

Thanks for your feedback. Although I did get the turbo fitted by a VW specialist I believe it was only a refurbished unit, plus they had issues and had to fit a 2nd unit. Seems very strange that it did fix the issue but it’s now returned after 6 months. I wonder if the issue would be resolved with a genuine VW turbo/actuator! If it were a wire/ECU I would have thought the issue would never have been resolved by the new turbo. As the part is still under warranty by the garage my angle would be to get them to replace with genuine part? Not sure what other option I have unless they look at wire loom/ECU at additional cost, but they would still only be guessing. Maybe I could contact Skoda UK for help, or go to Skoda garage? Thanks again for your help, really useful.

I managed to capture the fault (flashing glow plug light) with VCDS. The turbo actuator voltage was bouncing all over the place at idle (0.004V to 3.792V). When I turned engine off and on again the fault went and the turbo actuator voltage was constant at 0.664V. Does this point at the turbo actuator being faulty?

VCDS Turboboost Control Position Sesnor Circuit error codes P2563 (implausable signal) and P2564 (signal too low).