Joff-Monty-Yeti

I will investigate the servo situation, which sounds like it could be the route of the issue so far

To explain further, you press the brake pedal , first there is an inch of travel when nothing happens, then the brakes start to work, but feel like they just can't slow the car down. The harder you press they start to bite a little, but even with a really hard press I cannot get the fronts to lock/abs kick in. As I have mentioned I have bled the brakes twice, once via a pressure system from the top, and the other via a vacuum bleeder from the caliper. Put probably about a 1.5 litres through the system (full bleed all the way round front and rear) - zero bubbles coming out at the end of both bleeds. As I said before they just feel "adequate" and thats with just me in - 4 up with adults and the feel is just worse, like it just doesn't want to stop at junctions. Its a DSG and previously I have used cars with manual boxes using engine braking as well as the brakes. Hence the reason for considering bigger discs to help provide more braking force to give more confidence when coming to junctions or the end of slip roads. I don't drive like a hooligan, but I like to keep up a decent speed and not dawdle along , to me the brakes are just so mediocre.

No, still here - just mulling over options at the moment - given that it had brand new brake pads and discs (Brembo) last August, with all sliders cleaned and greased (with silicone grease) and the brake fluid changed and brakes bled (twice) , I'm still wondering why the performance is so poor. I will be doing some further investigation once the weather gets a little more conducive to working outside. Thanks for all in the input so far, and yes I am fully aware mods need to be declared to the insurance co's, given I built a Meriva with an Astra VXR engine, and have a Nova with a C20LET conversion. Cheers all Jonathan

Greetings all I am in the process of upgrading my brakes on my 1.2 TSI petrol Yeti due to their "barely adequate" level of braking. Rear wise has been a pretty simple case of finding some CR170 caliper brackets for 282mm discs, the discs, pads and backing plates . All very straightforward. The fronts are a whole different kettle of fish to deal with. Firstly the hubs on the 1.2 petrol have built in carriers for the 280mm discs. These cannot be removed and therefore an upgrade to a hub with bolt on calipers is required - i.e from a 2.0 or 2.0 4x4 . This brings its own issues as the diesel hubs use a 55mm damper , the 1.2 petrol is 50mm . Easy enough to sort, but a bit of a pain none the less. I'm looking to install 340mm front discs (the biggest that will go under the standard 17" rims) from a 2021 VW Tiguan. However the diesel flanges have a different spline arrangement than the 1.2 petrol ones , the petrol ones are smaller. So that leads me to two potential solutions 1. Use 2.0 diesel front driveshafts with the correct splines for the hub flange 2. Use the 2.0 diesel hub but fit a 1.2 petrol bearing and flange into it (the more simple solution) So the question is does the 1.2 bearing fit into the 2.0 diesel hub?? If not, do the 2.0 diesel driveshafts bolt up to the 1.2 DSG gearbox without issue?? Advice most appreciated , especially from someone who may have already done this conversion Jonathan

UPDATE AND SOLUTION..... I have found that the rear tailgate latch has a two stage closing mechanism, part and fully latched. Due to the bump stops on the tailgate being adjusted incorrectly, my tailgate would only part latch. Within the latching mechanism there are two microswitches which detect part and full latching and this is why the interior light would not go out as the car could not see the tailgate fully latched. On the plug there is PIN 4 which is the common input and PIN 1 and PIN2 feedback into the car to tell it where the latch is , as per the table below. Everyday is a school day - bumpstops adjusted and we now have a fully working interior light which goes on and off when it shoud!

UPDATE - I have had the vehicle connected to VCDS on Monday - seems the tailgate may have 2 switches within it - one was constantly open, the other was working fine (showing open and closed at the right times) - replaced the tailgate lock with a new one - still the same issue, so its not the lock mechanism itself - now thinking its wiring related - anyone got a pic or pdf of the rear wiring and how this connects to the rest of the car???

I have checked and the boot light goes out when the tailgate is closed - also checked on live data and you can see the tailgate open and closed respectively, so the car can see when the tailgate is closed or not Joff

Thanks for the info, but I have already double checked in the manual. I have the type Version 1, but with extra map lights - there is clearly an issue as it states - Automatic operation The system is turned off when any of the following are present - The vehicle is locked - The ignition is switched on - About 30 seconds after all doors have been closed I have tested all 3 scenarios and it remains on all the time I am guessing that the system thinks something is open - but I can't pin down exactly what this is as all the doors , tailgate and bonnet are showing closed within live data?? Joff

Good evening all, I have just aquired a 2019 Skoda Citigo Monte Carlo and just getting it prepped for its MOT. However upon cleaning it today I have noticed that the interior lights are in the off position. When I switch the interior light to door mode, it stays on all the time (yes I have got it set on the correct side - not the on all the time side) - the lights are on when its unlocked, locked ignition on, ignition off - the bods on FB mentioned it could be a faulty door switch. So I have had a look at the live data from my OBDEleven kit and it seems channel 5 and 7 are all showing the correct data. See pics However I have noticed on channel 6 that there is something marked open - the top one is the bonnet and the middle is the tailgate - anyone know what the lower one is?? Help most appreciated Joff

Greetings all, I am new to the world of Skoda/VAG, having been in the Vauxhall world for the last 35 years. In the world of Vauxhall Opcom was the go to system for OBD diagnosis and live data checking and testing. Which system is recommended for Skoda's - this is something I will be using occasionally to reset service intervals and check and diagnose any warning lights or messages. I see there is OBD + apps such as Carly, OBDeleven and Carista and laptop systems such as VCDS I would appreciate what recommendations you would have for a good diagnostic system for occasional use. Cheers Jonathan

Good afternoon to all Just become a member of the Skoda family with my purchase this week of my Yeti 1.2 TSI Monte Carlo edition Looking for general advice on keeping this on the road with the odd mod or two along the way. Cheers Jonathan