WD4000

Yeah it was black.

Both front bearings changed. Did torgue the axle bolts to the spec in the service manual 200 Nm + 180° 200nm was easy, the +180 on top was bit harder but with long enough extension doable.

The autodoc guide also has a tip that says "Make sure that the drive axle is under load (when the car has been jacked up)" any idea what this means in practice?

Yes I get that they are different bolt, just have not found any pics or listing for a bolt that has them. Gennuine VAG bolts seem to be flat too (so my guess it that it's 200 Nm + 180° is the correct spec then) but are there serrated versions anymore if the originals are flat too. 200 Nm + 180° sounds so overkill id rather find some of those serrated ones if I can.

Hi, I have a 2017 1.4l 110 kW / 150 hp About to change the front wheel bearings an came across three different torque specs for the same bolt. Two are on autodoc's guides Guide on how to change the wheel bearings to front, says to tighten the axel bolt to 70 Nm + 90° Same site but a different guide this time how to change the front shock absorbers, in which you need to take out the axel bolt. Here its says to tighten it to 200 Nm nothing about degrees And here some of the topics suggest that it its 200 Nm + 180° One manual referred in this older post here says Drive shaft to wheel hub with wheel bearing „hexagon screw“ t Use new screw t Vehicle must not be standing on its wheels for tightening the screw 200 Nm + 180° Drive shaft to wheel hub with wheel bearing „twelve-sided bolt“ t Use new screw t Vehicle must not be standing on its wheels for tightening the screw 70 Nm + 90° Also commented on the same post 12 sided bolt with serration: 70 Nm + 90° 12 sided bolt without serration: 200 Nm + 180° Been googling around and so far none of the bolts I've seen pictures of genuine or aftermarket has "serration" on the backside, my guess there is no such thing? Think this is the bolt referred in the manual as "hexagonal screw" An this the twelve-sided bolt (genuine bolt other pic on the site shows no serrations)

It's been about a week since that happened and now I'm getting EPC light and check engine light, nothing on the "car info page"

Ok thanks, just wanted to make sure I didn't miss anything.

Hello, Is there reprogramming or some type of diagnostic needed to be done if the car is without battery power. (for example battery fully dies) My superb was without a battery for too long and it seem to have forgot stuff like one press window operation (got that back) and pushed out a load of faults, which all went away after a short drive and moving the steering wheel all the way on bot directions. and is there other tricks I need to perform to resume all settings that might have lost?

One more thing I do remember the new pumps impeller being relatively stiff to turn compared to the old one, but that obviously has wear in it and i didn't think much of it, but if it turns poorly that might be the reason for it making noise/vibrate.

Did tension the belt with a torque wrench to the 30nm spec like in the vid.

Yes I did fit a new belt, there's no tensioner, the water pump is on the opposite side of the engine, same as seen here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ESpTIdoGQ9M Pump is an aftermarket part from Continental. Can't remember the VIN of the top of my head sry.

Hi, I recently changed my leaking water pump to a new one, seems to work fine coolant is flowing and temps stay at 90. But after the change I started hearing some weird noise, that seem to be coming from some where around the pump area. This won't be audible on idle, but when you rev to aprox 2000rpm it kicks in. To me it sounds like some metal parts are rubbing/vibrating against something. Took of the air duct and pumps belt cover and checked the belt was dead center when I closed it after the install but seems to have move bit to one side. Could the belt be too loose and cause the noise or did a just install a new pump with a bad bearing? Here's a clip af the noise noise.mp3