OmerGarabagi

Hi all, the orange oil level light on my 1.2 tsi octavia turned on a few days ago, checked the oil level and it was at the low mark so I filled it up but the warning light wont turn off. Since then I drove the car more than 50 km , checked the oil level every day and it was still full but the oil level light still wont turn off. I have read on a few forums that the warning light will go off if the car has enough oil AND that the hood latch sensor was reading that the hood was opened for more than 30 seconds (or something like that), and if one of the sensors goes out then the light wont go off. Since the oil level light turned on when the oil level was low Im guessing the oil level sensor works so Im left with the hood latch sensor, but I didnt find any real solution on these forums (a workaround or something). Does someone figured out how to override this issue and make the oil level light turn off?

So I did a homemade vacuum leak test, used a vape instead of a smoke machine (removed 2 years from my lungs) and I found that there is a quite big leak from a hose connector going to the brake booster (lower red circle in my first image) that I tried to tape but I probably didnt do a good job. So I need to replace that hose and maybe (I hope) it was the cause of these issues I was having.

So I cleaned the camshaft sensor with electronic cleaner spray, I also replaced the ignition coil pack, and nothing has changed. Maybe I need to check for vacuum leaks in the air intake, the old plugs were probably telling the truth.

Yes, I changed the plugs and wires to try and solve this. I will take a look at the camshaft sensor, clean it and see if it makes a difference. The less money I spend the better 😅. Thanks.

Well it didnt seem to make a difference. Thinking on replacing the ignition coil because the engine hesitation feels like a random misfire on load. It just doesnt explain why my old spark plugs look like they were running lean.

I love that car, so simple and easy to service and very fun to drive, like a big go kart. I bought it a few years ago from an old lady that bought it brand new, Too bad the rust is slowly taking over.

It is usually felt in 6th gear when accelerating at 2000+- rpm at the highway entrance on my daily commute to work so tomorrow I will give an update. I also have a 1993 Skoda Favorit (carbureted) and its rubber vacuum lines are so easy to deal with, I hate new stuff 😒.

Hi all, my 1.2 tsi isnt running the best, in higher gears and higher rpm the engine hesitates a bit and the idle feels like it could be a bit better, there is no check engine light or something. It has new spark plugs, new spark plugs wires, new air filter and new throttle body (when replacing the spark plugs it looked like they were running a little lean) Before I replace the coil pack I decided to check for vacuum leaks and I saw this line super cracked and more lines going to the brake booster to be cracked also. Can I replace them with rubber lines? these ones are rock hard.

Update: After a long hour that broke my back I managed to remove the rubber boots that got stuck on plugs 1 and 2, then I removed and inspect them and they seem ok (I have seen worse, I was so stressed that I didnt buy new ones because I just wanted to fix the mess I made). Then I bought new spark wires that cost about 75$. After replacing the 1 and 2 spark wires the car ran great and after a short drive I think it even fixed the original problem I had with it.

Something went bad, I tried today to replace the spark plugs but my socket (16mm) would not fit because the plugs have a rubber boot on them (maybe from the spark leads?) this is how the 1 and 2 spark leads look like (1 on the left, 2 on the right): So I connected them back because i couldnt remove the spark plugs but then a random misfire started (Im almost sure from cylinder 1 because I put my ear near the engine and everytime a misfire happened there was a click (probably a short?) coming from the 1st spark plug. I went for a small drive and if I put some load on the gas pedal the car shakes and cant output power at all, I need to give it a gentle gas to drive smoothly. I tried to connect and disconnect the number 1 spark lead several times and still no difference. The only thing I did to the engine is to disconnect and connect 1 and 2 spark leads, can it be that the number 1 lead is failing?

Yes they have the armour around them, they are even ziptied so I guess they have been previously replaced. I still havent checked the sparkplugs so it will be a task for the weekend.

Hi all, I recently bought a 2012 octavia with the 1.2 tsi 105 hp engine, it has 235000km but drives good. The only issue I have is that when I give it some heavy gas when the rpm is 1500-2000 it feels like the engine hesitates a bit and has small inconsistency in power delivery (more noticeable on higher gears acceleration), also I can feel the car shake a tiny bit when it idles. My mom has a 2013 octavia with the same powertrain and much less miles so Im familiar with how the car should feel. I have read that the ignition coil or the ignition leads (typically cylinders 3 and 4) could fail, how can I test them to be sure that they cause the issue and not just throw money on new parts that maybe didnt need to be replaced? Im good with carbureted engines (as my profile picture would suggest) but not so much with new cars. Thanks in advance.

They are not just hanging under the dash, its a picture I took right after I installed the switch and before I did any cable management to the engine bay so the cables were not attached to anything and were just sitting in the footwell What is BTB?

Now that I have installed this button that goes parallel to the switch I can truly check if its the sensor or the wires because the button is connected to the wires going to the thermoswitch (these are not speaker wires they are thicker) Also my electrical work isnt the best but it is safe, I also used A heavy duty 12v switch from old military jeeps) I still have the old sensor, maybe I will try to replace it back (even though it was also problematic)

I replaced the thermoswitch a few months ago, and sometimes it works and sometimes doesnt (maybe I bought a faulty one from ebay). I even bought a laser thermometer and tested it when the temp guage was in the middle (yellow line in the first message in the post) and at the temp sensor it was about 105-109c and at the thermoswitch it was about 88-90c which i think proves even the new one is faulty. Eventually I installed a manual switch for the fan inside the cabin (the yellow thing) which is a perfect fit instead of the plug where the cigarette lighter should be that the original owner didnt spec