OmerGarabagi

Hi all. I have a 2012 Octavia with the 1.2 TSI CBZB engine and a single-zone, 3-knob climate control system. I live in a Middle Eastern country with a hot climate, and the AC on its coldest setting is performing okay, but not great. Even after refilling the refrigerant gas, there was still no improvement. When I point a laser thermometer into an air vent with the system set to maximum cold and air recirculation turned on, it reads about 14c. While I have read about the compressor control valve failing completely and causing issues, I haven't found any information on it partially failing. It feels like my AC simply can't reach its true maximum cooling capacity, only getting to about two-thirds of how cold it should actually be. Anyone experienced this?

For those stumbling upon this thread (like me) while having the same tensioner issue, I ordered a timing chain tensioner from AliExpress for $20. It's a bit longer and harder to press in than the original one (probably because the old one was worn out). It took just two minutes to replace, and since then, there is no rattle at startup. Here is the link to the tensioner: https://a.aliexpress.com/_c4d88tX9

Hi all, a few days ago my 2012 octavia 1.2 tsi didnt start anymore, crank but no start. after connecting an obd scanner i got the following codes: P0149 - fuel timing error P2147 - fuel injector group A supply voltage low P2148 - fuel injector group A supply voltage high P2150 - fuel injector group B supply voltage low P2151 - fuel injector group B supply voltage high does anyone know what this means? weird seeing both voltage are low and high thanks in advance

Hi all, the orange oil level light on my 1.2 tsi octavia turned on a few days ago, checked the oil level and it was at the low mark so I filled it up but the warning light wont turn off. Since then I drove the car more than 50 km , checked the oil level every day and it was still full but the oil level light still wont turn off. I have read on a few forums that the warning light will go off if the car has enough oil AND that the hood latch sensor was reading that the hood was opened for more than 30 seconds (or something like that), and if one of the sensors goes out then the light wont go off. Since the oil level light turned on when the oil level was low Im guessing the oil level sensor works so Im left with the hood latch sensor, but I didnt find any real solution on these forums (a workaround or something). Does someone figured out how to override this issue and make the oil level light turn off?

So I did a homemade vacuum leak test, used a vape instead of a smoke machine (removed 2 years from my lungs) and I found that there is a quite big leak from a hose connector going to the brake booster (lower red circle in my first image) that I tried to tape but I probably didnt do a good job. So I need to replace that hose and maybe (I hope) it was the cause of these issues I was having.

So I cleaned the camshaft sensor with electronic cleaner spray, I also replaced the ignition coil pack, and nothing has changed. Maybe I need to check for vacuum leaks in the air intake, the old plugs were probably telling the truth.

Yes, I changed the plugs and wires to try and solve this. I will take a look at the camshaft sensor, clean it and see if it makes a difference. The less money I spend the better 😅. Thanks.

Well it didnt seem to make a difference. Thinking on replacing the ignition coil because the engine hesitation feels like a random misfire on load. It just doesnt explain why my old spark plugs look like they were running lean.

I love that car, so simple and easy to service and very fun to drive, like a big go kart. I bought it a few years ago from an old lady that bought it brand new, Too bad the rust is slowly taking over.

It is usually felt in 6th gear when accelerating at 2000+- rpm at the highway entrance on my daily commute to work so tomorrow I will give an update. I also have a 1993 Skoda Favorit (carbureted) and its rubber vacuum lines are so easy to deal with, I hate new stuff 😒.

Hi all, my 1.2 tsi isnt running the best, in higher gears and higher rpm the engine hesitates a bit and the idle feels like it could be a bit better, there is no check engine light or something. It has new spark plugs, new spark plugs wires, new air filter and new throttle body (when replacing the spark plugs it looked like they were running a little lean) Before I replace the coil pack I decided to check for vacuum leaks and I saw this line super cracked and more lines going to the brake booster to be cracked also. Can I replace them with rubber lines? these ones are rock hard.

Update: After a long hour that broke my back I managed to remove the rubber boots that got stuck on plugs 1 and 2, then I removed and inspect them and they seem ok (I have seen worse, I was so stressed that I didnt buy new ones because I just wanted to fix the mess I made). Then I bought new spark wires that cost about 75$. After replacing the 1 and 2 spark wires the car ran great and after a short drive I think it even fixed the original problem I had with it.

Something went bad, I tried today to replace the spark plugs but my socket (16mm) would not fit because the plugs have a rubber boot on them (maybe from the spark leads?) this is how the 1 and 2 spark leads look like (1 on the left, 2 on the right): So I connected them back because i couldnt remove the spark plugs but then a random misfire started (Im almost sure from cylinder 1 because I put my ear near the engine and everytime a misfire happened there was a click (probably a short?) coming from the 1st spark plug. I went for a small drive and if I put some load on the gas pedal the car shakes and cant output power at all, I need to give it a gentle gas to drive smoothly. I tried to connect and disconnect the number 1 spark lead several times and still no difference. The only thing I did to the engine is to disconnect and connect 1 and 2 spark leads, can it be that the number 1 lead is failing?

Yes they have the armour around them, they are even ziptied so I guess they have been previously replaced. I still havent checked the sparkplugs so it will be a task for the weekend.

Hi all, I recently bought a 2012 octavia with the 1.2 tsi 105 hp engine, it has 235000km but drives good. The only issue I have is that when I give it some heavy gas when the rpm is 1500-2000 it feels like the engine hesitates a bit and has small inconsistency in power delivery (more noticeable on higher gears acceleration), also I can feel the car shake a tiny bit when it idles. My mom has a 2013 octavia with the same powertrain and much less miles so Im familiar with how the car should feel. I have read that the ignition coil or the ignition leads (typically cylinders 3 and 4) could fail, how can I test them to be sure that they cause the issue and not just throw money on new parts that maybe didnt need to be replaced? Im good with carbureted engines (as my profile picture would suggest) but not so much with new cars. Thanks in advance.