BloodWorm

Bumping old topic but this video extremely useful in having an idea on best way to get door apart and give maximum length of loom to work with. Not a job for the faint of heart or unsure with electrical.

Is this the kind of upgrade that you can tutorialise?

Is your phone on silent? I’ve found that things like satnav announcements won’t come through if phone on silent.

Have done. Thank you muchly.

Anyone got dealer level access to give me some part numbers? Local dealer not helping and want to try some breakers but Skodas are way less common here in NZ so trying to help me along. Happy to PM you my VIN number - need numbers for under body trays and a couple other bits. Thanks

As it turns out - yes. Pulled the pump - bottom and top halves not attached (and no sign of the spring either) and the key transfer pipes were disconnected. So someone had been in there before. Sorted that and all my issues seem to have been resolved 🤞

Feeling frustrated. Following on from previous post. 2014 Superb Elegance TDi CR170 Back story. Ran over something in the road, punched a hole in the fuel tank. Mechanic replaced the tank with one I sourced from a breaker that included pump, gauge sender etc. Car was then hard to start. Mech thought maybe low fuel, so put half a tank in. Following day, it started but cranked for ages before it started. Drove fine for a while then gave me limp mode, flashing glow plug light etc. Code comes back as P008700 - fuel rail/system pressure too low. Checked getting fuel out of tank pump, and at filter housing (and was full to top), HPFP and rail but I have no idea if any of those are ‘in spec’. Fuel filter had 15,000km (9000 miles) on it so well within factory intervals but changed it anyways just in case but noted this time the housing was nearly empty. No sign of HPFP metal pieces. Still very hard to start if sitting for more than a minute but runs ok til you give it some stick - brings on limp mode about 4.5k rpm. Im usually pretty sedate driver, but tow a trailer fairly regularly so gave it some death to make sure it’s ok which its clearly not. Question is - could the tank pump be causing my issues? I have the old tank with pump, so can change it but I don’t know if it’s my problem. Otherwise it goes back to the mechanic on Monday. TIA

Hi All I hit a rock Ont he way to work and damaged the lower front corner of the fuel tank. Not exactly a great way to start a Monday. Basically, how hard is it to replace the tank myself? And are the tanks the same for pre and post facelift? 2014 FL Elegance estate, 2.0 TDi 170 Thanks

Actually, that’s something I hadn’t considered. Will look further into that. Having said that, I think the part number matched. I say ‘think’ cause I’m not entirely sure I didn’t get the PN from internet research 🤣 It’s fine when towing or loaded. Just fluctuating in the colder temps with no load. I’ll do the DSG again and hope for the best.

I had this same issue - switch contacts burned out. Soldered new wires straight to the PCB, and hid an aftermarket rocker switch in the back of the sunglasses holder. Cost me like $4 NZD 🤣

TBH that was my gut feeling. I did the last one so no issues swapping it. I figured aliexpress couldn’t go too wrong with something that basic though lol.

Being driven round the bend with this. 2014 (facelift) with CR170 TDi and DSG. 320,000km (or 200 ish miles) When I originally got the car, coolant temps were slow to increase in general, And in winter just non existent. A 40km drive would see the gauge still on the bottom until I got to work and it sat idling - then I’d get some temp. Replaces the DSG temping valve about a year ago (Ali express) Made a huge improvement. But still struggled to get from 80 to 90 unless sitting in traffic or loaded (towing trailer for example) Had the cambelt and water pump done in January (summer here) and got the main thermostat done same time. Independent garage so probably not OEM parts but I digress. Everything seemed fine, warmed up to 90 Etc etc. Now we’re getting into winter and cooler temps, I’m back to slow warm up and can actually lose up to 20 degrees temp if on a downhill stretch and on overrun (engine braking). I can somewhat mitigate it by holding the box in 5th to keeps the revs up slightly which helps but it’s not really a long term fix. Is it possible the DSG has gone bad again? It’s done all of 30,000km. Not sure where to look - do I send it back to mechanic (And cost) ? Gamble on another DSG valve? Something else? I’m mechanically inclined so don’t mind doing bits and pieces but it’s our primary car so I can’t have it down for extended periods (only reason it went to mechanic for belt etc). Thanks.

It’s an improvement thank you. Still Not the level i experienced in the other car but I’ll take any improvement at this point 🙏

That would be a no. I didn’t know that was a thing 🤣 I shall try that thank you

Blowing like a storm inside the housing. Cap is definitely on tight and it does have the foam seal around the end of the filter as well