BloodWorm

Actually, that’s something I hadn’t considered. Will look further into that. Having said that, I think the part number matched. I say ‘think’ cause I’m not entirely sure I didn’t get the PN from internet research 🤣 It’s fine when towing or loaded. Just fluctuating in the colder temps with no load. I’ll do the DSG again and hope for the best.

I had this same issue - switch contacts burned out. Soldered new wires straight to the PCB, and hid an aftermarket rocker switch in the back of the sunglasses holder. Cost me like $4 NZD 🤣

TBH that was my gut feeling. I did the last one so no issues swapping it. I figured aliexpress couldn’t go too wrong with something that basic though lol.

Being driven round the bend with this. 2014 (facelift) with CR170 TDi and DSG. 320,000km (or 200 ish miles) When I originally got the car, coolant temps were slow to increase in general, And in winter just non existent. A 40km drive would see the gauge still on the bottom until I got to work and it sat idling - then I’d get some temp. Replaces the DSG temping valve about a year ago (Ali express) Made a huge improvement. But still struggled to get from 80 to 90 unless sitting in traffic or loaded (towing trailer for example) Had the cambelt and water pump done in January (summer here) and got the main thermostat done same time. Independent garage so probably not OEM parts but I digress. Everything seemed fine, warmed up to 90 Etc etc. Now we’re getting into winter and cooler temps, I’m back to slow warm up and can actually lose up to 20 degrees temp if on a downhill stretch and on overrun (engine braking). I can somewhat mitigate it by holding the box in 5th to keeps the revs up slightly which helps but it’s not really a long term fix. Is it possible the DSG has gone bad again? It’s done all of 30,000km. Not sure where to look - do I send it back to mechanic (And cost) ? Gamble on another DSG valve? Something else? I’m mechanically inclined so don’t mind doing bits and pieces but it’s our primary car so I can’t have it down for extended periods (only reason it went to mechanic for belt etc). Thanks.

It’s an improvement thank you. Still Not the level i experienced in the other car but I’ll take any improvement at this point 🙏

That would be a no. I didn’t know that was a thing 🤣 I shall try that thank you

Blowing like a storm inside the housing. Cap is definitely on tight and it does have the foam seal around the end of the filter as well

Pollen filter in or out makes No difference to the vent air flow and cap is on properly but I haven’t thought to see how it feels within the filter housing. Will check that and report back.

Wait! I know everyone gonna say replace the blower. But it works. Hear me out. I’ve always had pretty poor airflow through my vents. I always just chalked it up to being a superb thing. But I recently got the opportunity to try another and just about got blown out of the car. Ok, so somethings not right with mine. But what? The blower works. And judging by the roar from it at full speed, it’s either pushing air into a partially closed flap or it’s not getting air to move. There’s nothing to suggest it’s the blower itself. At least not the motor. But the noise suggests the blades are moving air. Even if it is in a confined space. I do have some flow through the vents, and that does change when recirculating is selected which suggests that flap operates. Is there a a fresh air intake that might be blocked? Or a flap? Removing the pollen filter doesn’t seem to make any difference. 14 FL Elegance Estate. TIA

Mmmmm. That differs from my manual. There’s nothing in mine that’s lists any of what the MaxiDot display shows. But that’s very helpful thank you.

No, it won’t make any difference at all. But as someone who tinkers with old stuff, I just struggle with the concept of not having one 🤣 It can also give some information on an engines health, like how long it takes to come back on after running. I guess it’s just something I’m not missed to.

Yeah I’ve checked a number of YouTube videos and none of them show an oil light. Mine does the start up, needle sweep and all that but I just thought it odd there’s no oil light. Especially given there’s no pressure when ignition on so it gives a visual aid that there is some pressure created when it starts and go out. I’ve never been a fan of trusting oil level gauges etc, but I guess I’m gonna have to! Wonder if there’s somewhere suitable to tee off for an aftermarket gauge. Mmmm

It’s listed yes, but not shown.

Little bit late, but it’s accessed from below the glovebox. There’s a removeable panel then the housing lid slides sideways and drops the filter down.

Well this is embarrassing to admit. I can’t find the oil light. Did a service on weekend (first one since I’ve owned it) and went to watch the oil light when I started it. Lo and behold, no oil light. At least not that I can see. Now, I’m either blind, or it doesn’t have one. Or the MFD loses it **** when something goes wrong. But that still doesn’t seem right. So, am I losing my marbles? My eye sight? Or just incorrectly assumed there should be a light when there isn’t one? 2014, FL, 2.0 TDi.