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Mysterious electric tailgate problem on Skoda Octavia 5E.
@Skodaudi All the interior, boot space and license plate LED lights are from Aliexpress. I will try replacing them with Osram W5W halogen bulbs that I got spare. Do you think I should remove the LEDs, or replace with Osram bulbs entirely. Can you please elaborate more on how these LEDs can mess up boot opening or point me to a thread where this was discussed? I'm really interested. What I'm gonna do is to replace LEDs with Osram bulbs, disconnect the battery for a couple of minutes, reconnect and try to open/close the boot. Do you think it's a good procedure?
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Mysterious electric tailgate problem on Skoda Octavia 5E.
@Skodaudi I am the second owner of the car, previous owner had installed LED license plate lights instead of halogen bulbs, they started flashing so I replaced them with halogen light bulbs that I had at my disposal and later installed brighter LEDs with resistor so car doesn't detect license plate light error. My interior lights are all aftermarket LEDs.
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Mysterious electric tailgate problem on Skoda Octavia 5E.
@Skodaudi i don't know anyone who has OEM (or working) struts that I could swap. I also tried to set new open position by holding button on the trunk. I replaced a soft close mechanism but no difference. Is there any way to hard reset or reset or set factory settings to the CU with VCDS? I think that something is messed but in the sequence. The way it works now is as follows: 1. Press any button to open. 2. Lock unlatches and trunk slightly pops up. 3. CU beeps once. 4. nothing. 5. I open up trunk manually. 6. After ~20cm of travel the soft close moves up (as in videos above). Is there a way that the CU can be faulty and yet I can read/write values to it?
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Mysterious electric tailgate problem on Skoda Octavia 5E.
@Skodaudi I bought these exact struts https://www.ebay.com/itm/166534060260
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Mysterious electric tailgate problem on Skoda Octavia 5E.
Hello everyone, I own 2016 Skoda Octavia 5E and I began to have a tailgate opening issues in November 2024. What was it like? Firstly my boot went up only a half way, then beeped and stopped. I could either open/close by hand, or pressed button again and then it closed automatically. After this it worked for a while normally. Then it could not open up automatically, but could close automatically with a press of any button once manually opened. Then it worked like that for about a month until it didn't work at all. Now if I press any button to open the boot (interior, key fob, trunk buttons) I can only hear one beep and that's it. I read errors with VCDS diagnostics and there was only "Electrical error Motor 2". I could read all the values from the control unit (CU) like motors' position or voltage. I decided to buy new motors from ebay. Replaced them and it didn't work either. I read the CU again, no errors since the last time because I deleted them when I had old motors installed. I could again read all the values, however I noticed that voltage on motors was 1.85 V all the time, if I opened/closed the boot, I could see that CU is trying to work, but nothing happened and voltage dropped to 0 V, then came back to 1.85 V if the CU stopped trying to open it. So what's next? I decided to check the CU itself. I looked for some corrosion or burnt components on PCB but there was no obvious damage, when I connected the CU back I could even hear relays being turned on or off. Even though CU seems fine, and I can read it with diagnostics, it doesn't mean it's actually 100% working. I was checking the voltage only with VCDS, didn't measure it with a multimeter yet. I checked the wires too, no damage was seen. So after all of this I think that the CU may be faulty or burnt fuse? (If fuse was dead I guess more features would stop working). Or maybe locking mechanism is misbehaving and causing issues in control logic? I have read that even locking mechanism can cause this like in these videos: Do you have any tips what could be wrong or worth checking?
matrick173
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