TinyTim

The MK3 has a removable lower glovebox, evidently, whereas the Mark 2 does not. Access is the whole issue here, not what you do when you have it. One day I'll get round to doing the job.

I have seen the flap actuator and it is fairly low down, behind the lower glovebox, close to the LH side of the car. It seems that mine still works, but it makes a light tapping noise when I first start the car, for about 20 secs and a much louder tapping when recirculation is selected, again for 20 secs. I've got used to it. I would like to fix it and came to the conclusion that the easiest approach would be to use a Dremel to cut out a section at the rear of the lower glovebox, but I never seem to get round to attempting it, partly due to having 3 other old cars, all requiring attention! The Skoda is used intermittently. If I do the job, I'll then replace the cut out section by attaching a flange to the edge of it, so that it can be screwed or maybe clipped back in. With the lid closed, it won't show. I'll post again if I get it done. It's a silly design!

My heater recirculation flap goes tap, tap, tap. I want to remove the actuator. I presume the lower glovebox needs to come out to get at it. I cannot see how it comes out. If the flap actuator can be removed with the glovebox in situ, or if the glovebox can only come out with the entire dashboard, someone please tell me. I've asked before , but get no replies. I don't think this is a rare problem, so someone must know more than I do! Help! P.S. I've removed the upper glovebox and that doesn't help at all.

I understand the basic principles of removing the flap actuator. What I don't know is whether the lower glove box must be removed. I can remove the top glovebox, but don't know how to remove the lower glovebox, if it must come off, so could someone tell me? Thanks.

Thanks for all that! You'll see that I've posted again to try and get at a solution. My Fabia 2 uses a sensor that you can unplug the cable from, but the early ones don't. I daresay the later sensor would work on the Fabia 1, if the cable was also available from a Fabia 2.

Does anyone KNOW the answer? If the cables are different lengths, then it would be quite simple to splice the new sensor to the old cable, but it would be expensive if it didn't work! The RHD sensors (6Q2423291A) are unavailable, but there are plenty of OE and pattern LHD sensors on Ebay.

Reg. number is DX03JVF. There are plenty listed on Ebay with the part no. 6Q1423291 but a Skoda Swindon told him that is for LHD and that he needs 6q242329a and his garage told him he needs 626Q242329AX. There are also sensors listed on Ebay as 6Q0423445, but they don't come with the lead and plug.

My friend's car has been stuck at his local garage for weeks because they say they can't source a steering angle sensor for RHD. What is the correct part number and where can he get one? Thanks.

Yes, it makes the tapping noise if the a/c is off too, so it must be the flap motor gear. Is that easy to get at?

I haven't tried recirculation with the a/c off. Will do so and report. What is weird is the fact that the tapping continues at about a tenth of ther volume after the recirc is off and then ceases. I'll check.

In the last few days a disturbing phenomenon has occurred. if the a/c is on and the air recirculation button is also lit there is a steady loud tap, tap, tap noise from the lower l/h end of the fascia. If the recirc. button is pressed and unlit the noise is instantly reduced to a faint tap at the same frequency which then fades to nothing. It is quite independent of the heater fan which works normally at all 4 speeds. The a/c is working well. If the recirc. button is on again, back comes the tapping. Has anyone else had this? It's a 2014 1.2TSi.

There was 14.5V at the alternator output using the alternator body as the earth. There was still 14.5V at the +ve terminal on the battery, using the alt. as earth, but when I moved the earth lead to the -ve post, it was down to 12V. In the end, I found that the earth lead from the engine to the body was high resistance on the engine connection! I cleaned it up and now have 14v+ across the battery. I have learned rather late that a charging fault is not always the alternator or the battery! Thanks for your help. I now have a spare good alternator.

I give up! I'll assume it is a compatible alternator and do those checks.

Yes, you did explain the DFM function. I see that I stated that the WAI 20588N was LIN-bus controlled. That was because I read that in a spec-list, but I don't know where at this point! I'm looking for it.

At this point I need to review everything we've both written and see if I can find anything that suggests that the WAI alt. is LIN-controlled. I will do those voltage checks when time and weather permit. Thanks.