Nosheds

Hi People, If you can spare the time I’d appreciate your input about the following: I bought my Kamiq 1.5 TSI SE in August ’23-it was seven months old, from a Skoda main dealer. In January ’25, at another Skoda main dealer, it went in for its second service where I mentioned that the suspension was creaking from the rear when going over speed bumps. They lubricated the rear suspension bushes and said all was well suspension-wise. It seemed better if not cured so I left it at that. After moving away I registered it at another main dealer and in January ’26 booked it in for a final service before its third birthday to get the creak looked at again before its warranty expired. They said they could not locate the fault so had done no remedial work but had completed the service work. At this point I bought a two year extended warranty with them. By today (10th June ) the creaking is very evident over most bumps and if the car is rocked gently from side to side so it was back to the dealers. I showed them a video of the car being rocked along with accompanying loud creaks to prove that the fault was real. When I went to collect the car the report was typed as follows: ‘Carried out extensive road test followed by full visual inspection of? vehicle lift. Suspension top mounts are all fine. Evidence that front sub frame has previously been removed and drop links appear to be worn/misaligned. Conclude that both drop links are replaced to establish If such would cure noise but can’t guarantee it will. Customer to decide’ The charge for not fixing my car -£115- not covered by warranty- and the offer to carry out further chargeable work to see if that would cure the problem but no guarantees. The dealer stated that in any case worn suspension was wear and tear so would not be covered by the warranty even if they could find the problem and would not have been covered back in Jan '25 when the car was less than 3 years old. He also said that the advice from Skoda HQ was that greasing was an adequate solution to creaking suspension ( I thought it was a precursor to more serious problems and replacement was the preferred solution). Upon walking back to my car I gave it a gentle rock and it answered with a full-throated creak. My Kamiq has been under the care of Skoda dealers since I’ve had it and this is the first mention of sub-frame work having been carried out. If it has then Skoda must have done it and not told me or bothered to put it on their records. That’s the story, so if you’ve had the patience to read this far I would be grateful for any input. Thanks.

Thanks, I'll take a look.

Hi, thanks for that. It seems that they all have slightly different idle characteristics when cold; mine's always 1400 from a minute down depending on temperature. Maybe the dealer can tweak it down a bit.

Hi, yes- a minute from completely cold.

Hi bigjohn, if that's true, and I don't doubt it, then it looks like I'll have to pollute the air waiting for the revs to drop in order not to pollute the air. Thanks for your input-all of you- there's certainly a wealth of knowledge on this forum.

Hi Ootohere, by cold it could be when it's frosty.. a minute at 1400, or as Aldfort says maybe 20 seconds when the engine has cooled after a hour's shopping. So it is definitely related to engine temperature rather than cat or dpf. Neither is it anti-stall related: that works as advertised. And yes, I do like to pull away almost as soon as the engine starts (perhaps if it's particularly wintry I'll give 20 seconds or so) especially from shop car parks-every second extra spent there risks the clot next door banging his door into mine, a regular occurrence unfortunately.

It's not much of a struggle really: next time you have to reverse out of a tight parking space at the supermarket hold your revs at 1400 and see if you can do it 𝘸𝘪𝘵𝘩𝘰𝘶𝘵 slipping the clutch. My feeling is, given that people have Kamiqs that only idle at 1000 when cold ( about the same as my previous vehicles), that this could be sorted using the ECU.

Something definitely isn't right sussamb but, as Ootohere up-post commented, the dealership are not very helpful. In fact, the words 'wall' and 'brick' spring to mind so the more evidence I can gather from the good people on this forum the more likely they are to take note ( I hope! ).

Yes, all my recent cars have, but not to 1400rpm. At the these revs, pulling out of a tight space requires a great deal of clutch slipping and brake use, all of which is unecessary at say 1000 rpm.

Hi, it's good to know other Kamiqs rev as high. Mine does it for a minute however which is a lot of fuel to waste waiting for it to warm up. The car does, after all, switch itself off at the lights to save petrol. You've given me pause for thought though, cheers.

The same as my previous cars then, interesting to know, thanks. If there's any more owners could let me know tickover speeds from cold it may help when I go back to the dealer.

Aaah, if I had a scanner. The dealer says no faults showing and won't accept evidence from external mechanics. While I was at the dealers I had him start another Kamiq from cold and that revved at 1400 too so I guess they all do it; my point is that it's too high- I have dash footage of me driving from home, taking two turns and a mini roundabout and up to 20mph, all without touching the throttle (and it'll do 30 with no obstacles) that can't be right. Thanks for the thought though.

Will do, thanks again for your advice.

Ah, just read your TTEC post, I'll try to get a contact number for them. Many Thanks.

Yes, pretty much at the dealers (also Honest John.) I'll have another go with Skoda Technical but they seem to be based in South Africa and have limited English- not ideal when discussing technical matters. I wonder if this is something that can be tweaked with the ECU, the dealership didn't seem to know.