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Thanks, I would love to but I have no place to work on it other than the side of the road and taking the turbo out on this is a massive job. Many people across the net have reported that oven cleaner works well, so on a car this age quick and easy is fine for me.

Thanks Alasdair, I have lubed and jerked the wastegate shaft many times cause the fix only lasts a week or so and it's not a good fix either. Guessing by the way the shaft feels the problem is in the turbo and not inside the wastegate.

Hi All, Scout 4X4 2009 Can I jerry-rig an extension tube onto the Oven Cleaner spray can, pull out the Lamba 1 (O2) sensor, and push the tube through that opening and squirt cleaner on to the inside of the turbo (exhaust side)? What's the easiest way to get oven cleaner into the turbo area? I have the BMM engine which has the inlet manifold, exhaust manifold and turbo all on the back of the engine against the firewall. Thanks

belated update: yes that is the Lambda Sensor. Need to remove the air pipes, and the throttle body (requires M10 spline/triple square socket) - No need to disconnect D type connector as enough cable length to just move TB out of the way. Then using a crows-foot type o2 socket, it came out easily.

ok thanks Alasdair, my o2 sensor is 0v 0data. I don't know if it's the turbo vanes full of carbon or the o2 sensor causing problems, car drives well first drive in the morning once warmed up, then later drives it performs poorly. I read somewhere that when the engine is cold the ecu uses stored/cold values and then later changes to values provided by sensors, not sure if this is true, if it is then that could account for the o2 sensor being the culprit. But there have been times when I massaged and lubed the wastegate shaft that it also drove well later in the day.... hmmmm

Greetings Again, Can someone please let me know the location of the O2 sensor? 2009 MK2 Scout 2.0tdi BMM I have spent hours on YouTube and no one has the same motor. In pics is it the the one with the crinkly GREY coloured wire cover? Also what is the easiest way to remove? Thanks

lmfao thanks for the help

NOPE NOPE NOPE, throttle body flap or TPS was not the problem. The wastegate actuator was stuck, used penetrating oil and got it moving again, seems to have fixed these issues.

Thanks, need to buy more tools to get TB off, also another nightmare D connector will not come off

Thanks guys, Would bad injectors cause misfires also? I really don't want it to be injectors because $$$ I am assuming that the throttle flap always being open at 94.9% would cause air fuel ratio problems?

Hi, thanks for that. Can you recommend a good free scan tool ap for android, I am using Car Scanner and it's not the best, and I am not that good at reading data. Anyway, thanks for your comment, yesterday I started looking at stuff/data/sensors in Car Scanner and noticed that the throttle position sensor was at 94.9% at idle, as I revved the car the other sensors showed normal movement but the TPS stayed at 94.9%. So today I took some parts off the engine to get to the throttle body, yes the throttle flap is in the open position (obviously with the car turned off). My understanding is that this flap should be closed at engine off and only slightly open at idle? I could not take the TB off because it's got some god forsaken triple square spline 12 point bolt on it x3. I think the bolt is M6 not certain if its spline or triple square? TB was fairly clean but I sprayed it heavily with carby TB cleaner and let sit for 15 minutes whilst I swore at the bolt. I also gently moved the flap close open a couple of times, and it moved smoothly, it wasn't sticking on anything and the servo/motor didn't feel stuck either. I am wondering if the sensor is dirty/shot? I think I need to remove TB to get sensor out as it's all pushed up against the back of engine bay. I have massive problems removing D type connections for sensors, do you know how to remove this one, bottom of open flap pic? Where is the magic button you have to push/pull/twist? I haven't had any engine faults red or orange regarding this problem, its been running rich for a month+ but no codes. My new engine air filter had arrive so I installed that, Drove car and it had typical problems and after 10 minutes of driving I got my first orange warning light on dash (Coils/glowplugs - which can mean 1000 different things), I tried to code read but nothing was showing, and it cleared from dash when I turned off and restarted. Car drove well without problem (but sensor still showed TPS open at 94.9%). Later today I will do another ecu reset by removing neg battery terminal. (also this car has the goes into limp mode when driving on highway at speeds greater than 90kmph - but that's another problem).

Hello, 2009 MY10 Skoda Octavia SCOUT wagon Diesel 2.0tdi, BMM, 6spd manual, 200K km, Australia. Normally car ran well in the mornings, and then late morning and for the rest of the day it had the problem. Car always starts easily and idles without problems, no misfires. No smoke on start up or idle, only smokes under acceleration, and no smoke in mornings or when it runs well. I removed negative battery cable, let sit for 30 minutes to reset ecu, car ran well for 1 day (morn, ave, night and following morn) then problem returned. I removed and cleaned MAF sensor with MAF cleaner, car ran well for 2 full days, then problem returned. Anyone any ideas, Thanks.

Hi thanks but no luck. I can push the connector to the sensor slightly. But pushing that tab does not move it, either into connector or down or up, it just doesn't move. I have used a lot of force but that tab is bending. Edit, finally, pull top tap directly up, I did not feel it move or click or anything but then also pulling connector up it came off.

Also, I have tried pushing a flat screw bit into the rectangular hole underneath the tab, as this is where I believe the locking thingee is, but no amount of fiddling worked. There is not enough room to use the full length screwdriver here as it is too close to the engine.

Hello, 2009 MY10 Skoda Octavia SCOUT wagon Diesel 2.0tdi, BMM, manual. Australia. Trying to clean MAF sensor. I cannot work out how to undo the sensor electrical connector. (I am not talking about removing the security torx screws to remove the sensor unit itself, just the connector.) I have looked at 50 youtubes and lots of google searches, no other maf sensor looks like mine, link me to a vid etc. Can someone please explain in the most simple baby steps how to undo this maf sensor connector. I have tried pushing in sensor and playing with the rectangular tab with a hole in it, nothings works. Thanks.

Thanks for info re mr muscle. I tried to get the last mechanic to spend 10 minutes massaging penetrating oil into the turbo actuator arm but he made up excuses saying it could break, I asked him to do it anyway but he never did.

Joyful (not) update Can't get a look under the car myself cause of all the rain. So, yesterday ave similar symptoms to the fixed first problem (MAP sensor) have come back. Fuel economy according to dashboard got worse, normally the second half of the drive home I get 5.7L/100km, yesterday it was 7.5L/100km, no changes to traffic or route. Then this morning, the fuel economy didn't improve from yesterday, car felt a bit sluggish even after warmed up. So I found some back streets and USED the accelerator to see if I could get the car to trip a warning code (no codes yet), car drove 'ok' until around ~2900rpm and above (when you really feel the turbo kick in) then it started blowing black smoke. Smoke disappeared as soon as I backed off throttle and didn't reappear under normal (quite gentle) driving. --- not certain if this is part of current vibration problem --- Car currently idles fine and starts without problems. (With previous map sensor problem there were occasional difficulties when starting the car, sometimes at idle whilst cold the car would KUNK KUNK and die). This car also has the LIMP MODE flashing glow plugs light problem when driving on highway at speeds 90km/hr+, which often means faulty turbo actuator or vanes sticking inside turbo. Can a problem with a dying turbo also cause vibrations as per the problem at the start of this thread, could the turbo be the source of all these problems? a recon turbo replacement here in Sydney will be min $2000 as best case scenario, if I source the part myself but get a mech to install. It's just not worth it for this car. Does the Mr Muscle Oven Cleaner trick actually work or will it destroy seals inside the turbo? Thanks :-)

Thanks, I might try to get the car one side up on the gutter and crawl under for a look and a wiggle.

Thanks, rubber couplings noted. Are these located near the front of the car? cause that's where I am guessing this vibration is coming from

I'll be happy if mine lasts a year without getting much worse, I only plan on having for another ~6 months before getting a newer car. Let me know how the alignment goes.

Thanks. Because of the vibration-problem being instant on/off based on accelerator on off, I doubt it's wheels. I agree that it's more likely cv or driveshaft. It doesn't appear to have worsened since it became worse last week, I might leave it a while [preventive maintenance be damned] and wait for it to get really bad so it's much easier to diagnose.... what's the worst that could happen? lol

Hello again, Just fixed a rough running vibration which was the MAP sensor and broken glow plug wire, all was good, but now a few days later this happens. 2009 MY10, MK2, Octavia Scout, 6 spd manual, 2.0tdi, diesel, wagon. 200,000km Pre-existing very minor problem, but getting worse since yesterday: Noise and Vibration coming from front of car. In gear only AND only under acceleration. Not present at idle or whilst decelerating. You can play with accelerator on and off to make problem come and go. Minor to moderate only, car does not shake. Appears to be a little worse at 1900rpm to 2500rpm, like that's a sweet spot for the problem. You can rev car in neutral, and car revs without problems. Previous mechanic said that car has an oil leak but it was too messy to say what location~. [A mechanic before that said there was a different oil leak which could be from gearbox (not confirmed) but at that time an oil leak from the throttle body housing was fixed]. ~I first noticed this leak from smelling it about 2 months ago. Haven't seen any oil drips on the ground though. - EDIT: unsure if oil leak is part of this problem. Other than this car runs fine. No dash warning lights. I have nowhere at this point in time to work on the car myself. So, I need to take it to a mechanic. Mechanics in Sydney can get horrifically expensive, AND the ones in my area charge to diagnose ($150 to $200). I need to get as much knowledge about this problem before talking to one. Any help with a possible diagnosis appreciated. Thanks :-)

Final Update: I didn't do anything further to the car and I noticed last Sat morn (and since then), after about driving 90km over 4 days, that problem vibration has gone. I am guessing that with the new sensor it took the ecu a while to re-program itself. Car still has it's old vibrations/rattles/squeaks, car has 200K km on it, so as long as they don't get worse I am happy. Thanks to all who helped.

You don't know the full story, Australia has a MASSIVE problem with incompetent mechanics ripping people off. $150 to diagnose then $5000 to fix something that may only cost a tiny fraction of that irl. Also Australian mechanics diagnose by hooking the car up to a computer, most of them have little skill beyond reading the scan tool, and if YOU have any clue you know that scan tools are NOT a 100% solution. Also YOU did not read my entire post, the sensor replacement appears to have fixed blowing black smoke, which is something that needed fixing, plus the other things. ACTUALLY the next thing I will check is engine mounts.

UPDATE: I took it to a local mechanic as I didn't want to drive the car 5kms to a vw mech. As I originally refused the $150 for diagnosis, I gave instruction to the mechanic what to do. I got a new Map Sensor and had mechanic replace the old one. It made no difference to the vibration but car doesn't blow black smoke any more under acceleration. Mechanic discovered oil leaks around engine and hoses, surprisingly car does not drip oil, I have often checked underneath on road after car parked at night. These leaks have not been fixed and are probably the reason for the smell. Mechanic Discovered a broken wire to one glow plug, his scan tool showed an open circuit error, he fixed wire and CLEARED CODES. Mechanic was not able to lubricate turbo actuator, he said he wasn't able to get to it. (I could not find any of this specific model's DIYs on youtube they were only VW cars not skoda) This all up cost $300 ($70 map sensor and $230 labour), and has not fixed the vibration or smell problem, the mechanic is not a fault as he did as I requested. In that price he also checked wheels and brakes and lubricated the hood release cable. If I had a place to work on it, not by the side of the road, I would have done this myself. Anyone have a clue on what the vibration could be? it's only moderate when warmed up and only minor when cold. It's there both at idle and when driving, seems to be a little worse between 2000-2500 rpm. Thanks