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No homo. The tach box in the first photo is just demonstration thats what i meant by different variants mine seems to be special since there are not + - or signal prongs on the back of the tach for the wires just straight up wires coming from the circuit inside (took it apart to look). So the more common version of this VDO cockpit tach is the one you can swap into your dash but this one is supposed to sit on top hence the whole stand thingy but anyway the problem is i cant even find a photo online of my version of the tach meaning i can really tell what each wire is supposed to be this is my main issue looking for other diagrams wont help as mine just has said 4 wires coming straight out of different parts of the circuit board inside.

I figured the date out the day i got tach and yes early 1980s is vintage in the tach world i mean ancient considering its aftermarket. But hey... never gotten compliments on my age online considering i am a straight guy.

Got this gauge from a old skoda 110r race car. Wondering if anyone ever used one of these and if so i would need some help with the wiring. All i got when i tried searching for it that its likely from the 80s and the cockpit series lineup of gauges. I cant seem to find any info on this one as all the other ones dont have the same dash mount at the bottom and are wired differently. Mine seems to have 4 cables with different colors coming out the back while others have a 3 bung style for + - and the tach signal (shown in image with original packaging of the more common type i am referring to). I would like to know if anyone has had any similair tachs in the past i just want to know what each color of cable is for since i cant find a single manual for my version of the vdo tach. When i tried wiring it up as follows: Green (tach signal), Brown (+), Black (ground), red/white (backlight) it did absolutely nothing then i tried switching it up ways i dont even remember and i know i got the backlight working but still nothing else.

10-248-1152 is the serial number

sorry to specify its a factory rally spec camshaft for skoda 120s rally cars that raced during the early 70s mine came from a 71 make rally car its def a 280/280 since it has a factory serial number stamped at the end of the camshaft. Honestly i dont mind losing a bit of bottom end RPM and i wouldnt mind crusing at 2000 to 2400 RPM on the street or suffering from bad fuel mileage since its not a daily more of a weekend or when i feel like it kind of a car.

Hi everyone ive got a question about running a 280/280 original factory skoda camshaft that is from a skoda 120S race car from 1971. I am planning to put into my built favorit engine that goes as follows: -136B favorit stock bottom end -Felicia slightly ported and polished head with stock valves and stronger valve springs running a full set of aluminium pushords with reinforced tips (compression should be around 10,8:1) -lightweight flywheel (4,9kg) -stock favorit dizzy -standard Pierburg Lekr (mechanical secondary done and rejetting are in the works) -gr.A air intake and gr.A muffler - 4-1 exhaust manifold with stock mid pipe - stock 4,167 final gear 135 transmission Now the question is this is a viable street camshaft and did anyone run a similair setup i am wondering about the usable RPM range on this setup with these cams and how it behaves in lower RPMs. Would be driven on the street and the occasional local trackday or event.

Hi everyone ive got a question about running a 280/280 original factory skoda camshaft that is from a skoda 120S race car from 1971. I am planning to put into my built favorit engine that goes as follows: -136B favorit stock bottom end -Felicia slightly ported and polished head with stock valves and stronger valve springs running a full set of aluminium pushords with reinforced tips -lightweight flywheel (4,9kg) -stock favorit dizzy -standard Pierburg Lekr (mechanical secondary done and rejetting are in the works) -gr.A air intake and gr.A muffler - 4-1 exhaust manifold with stock mid pipe Now the question is this is a viable street camshaft and did anyone run a similair setup i am wondering about the usable RPM range on this setup with these cams. Would be driven on the street and the occasional local trackday or event.

Hi again few months back i made a post about choosing carbs for my stock 135 LX motor with a lazy pierburg and have since then acquired a few goodies like a dellorto dhla 40R (emission type) most likely from a 2.0 alfa in mint condition for a steal. But the one i am leaning to more is a yamaha yzf 600r carb that i have already restored but have questions about the jetting so here goes. The original 135 is going bye bye and i have a 136B engine on the standby with a few bolt on goodies but they question is the camshaft i really do care about the bottom end power and only really want some performance until like 6000RPM since its a street driven car so i am wondering if the 136Bs stock 254 profile camshaft is enough with the combined yamaha yzf 600r carb that will be bolted onto a ported and polished head with stock MPi valve sizes and the valve springs are from TYM motorsport. The bottom end will be stock and i also have a racing flywheel to go with the car still need to source a sportier clutch kit for this thang since the stock one feels like chewed up gum its not slipping per se but has issues during high rpm faster upshifts (from what i noticed) clutch recommendations are much appreciated too! TL:DR -Jetting for a Yamaha yzf600r carbs on a 136B with stock 254 camshaft with mild headwork (the current jetting is most likely 165 main jets the rest is unknown and stock i only had to buy a gasket kit that came with bigger jets since like 2 of the stock ones were missing they were a 155 stock originally) + got some pod filters -clutch recommendations for sportier/daily usage (stock one feels like ass) -Also forgot to say i am going to be running this with an old school SU electric pump from i am pretty sure a tatra 603 or 613 so i also would appreciate feed back if its enough for this carb since ive tried the bike carbs with stock fuel pump the mechanical one and a cheap magnetti marelli electric one that just made the fuel overflow from the breather hole but surprisingly enough works just fine with the stock pierburg. Video attached below is the said bike carbs on the completely stock 135 engine running the 165 main jets with stock factory fuel pump since the electric one made it overflow from the breather and die but i didnt realize at the time that the distributor was completely toast but surprisingly it didnt hesitate or backfire when we test drove it at WOT it just wouldnt rev past 3000RPM and was totally dead torque wise because of the said messed up distributor which has since been replaced also vacuum advance was disconnected since i am pretty sure you cant run it off one inlet on the manifold but correct me if i am wrong. dhahixchiasd.mp4

i am not the one who was looking for a 110r carb since i have a 1.4 mpi swap in my 110r so couldnt have been me and also i know about people modifying pierburgs for group A and they do infact remove the choke flaps and most people who used had a favorit told me to just hook it up to a manual wire so i can turn it on and off any time since they do tend to get stuck closed or open but i dont really want to fiddle with a manual one and i really do want to keep a choke since the weather gets cold round my neck of the woods sometimes but i would pleased enough if i could find a document or post about the jet size limits for a stock 135 engine since i have 0 clue about rejetting in general and would like to rejet the stock pierburg or just get a weber of some kind with a electric choke preferably and do the rejetting with correct jet sizes

the weber from the renault mounted up fine and worked with a little custom made throttle cable mount but bogged like hell and could not be adjusted no matter how much do did to it so i switched back to the original pierburg 2e3. The jikov is not really on my want list since i have 10 of them laying around even have one on my 136 swapped estelle and she runs good but i dont really want a manual choke carb on my favorit nor do i want to go around trying to convert it to an automatic choke if thats even possible so i am looking for something that works pretty well off the shelf i know i am asking for a lot but i am totally in the dark about re-jetting carbs for a favorit engine. If anyone knows what jet sizes i can run on this engine and is willing to post them down below id appreciate it and also i am willing to buy a new weber but id prefer one with an electric choke.

Hi all quick question bought a cheap weber 32 dar7 off a junkyard fuego 1.6 did all the gaskets and seals (also cleaned in acid solution before assembly) and it ran like **** i suspect the jets being too big was part of the reason but it had a missing choke so i would like to ask if there is anyone here who has experience running a different carb on a stock 135 engine without needing to play with jetting since i am trying to squeeze a little more power outta her before she gets a fully built 1.6 liter from a felicia i have laying round.