MURVAG82

Just an update, I had the car in with Skoda for the last 2 days. New battery fitted under warranty but the rigmarole I had to go through to get it sorted was barely worth it. But thankfully they did it so I can’t complain too much. The staff were nice to deal with but I get the feeling there isn’t much love for the Skoda HQ from their dealerships.

I went for an OBDEleven in the end. There’s only one function I want to switch off, the lane assist 🤬 So it’ll do that, register a new battery and clear faults so that’s good enough for me.

Just as an update, I called another Skoda dealer and I’m booked in for tomorrow to get things sorted. The airbag light & forward assist are Joe throwing up warnings and the car is struggling to start so my money is on a battery or alternator going caput which is causing the other issues. I really hope they diagnose it properly and fix what needs fixing as it’s a major irritant currently.

Yep, I was aware of that thanks. I suppose I’m just looking for a scanner to do the basics. I think, although I’ve little knowledge on the matter, that SFD & SFD2 are more for mods and coding etc so I’m assuming most OBD scanners will do what I want. But like I said originally, I’m not sure which one to get and I don’t want to pay an arm and a leg for one either.

Here’s part of a conversation I had with a seller. I already have the Advancer Pro dongle which can do many things, I might just stick with that.

It’s because VW brought out SFD protection I think in 2020 or 2022 so it limits what cheaper scanners can do.

Hi All, I’m looking to get something VAG specific that can read and clear fault codes. There are tonnes of them out there. But I’m looking for opinions on some relatively cheap ones. I don’t want to mod or anything, just be able to clear/reset any warning lights, reset service lights and possibly register new batteries etc. I’m looking at the Ancel VD700 but it says it does VAG cars up to 2022. Will it do post 2022 cars as well? I’ve searched for the answer online and can’t find it. I’ve got a 2023 Fabia. I know the OBDEleven exists but requires subscriptions and in-app purchases, but I think it goes beyond what I need it for. Thanks.

The error:airbag warning came up on my dash yesterday. So I’ve had to book it in with Skoda. I’ve asked them to look at the alternator and battery whilst it’s in as I’ve a feeling the two issues could be linked. When the battery/alternator is possibly struggling, random other problems start happening. I’m not having much luck at the moment with my car, very very frustrating. Skoda can’t see it for a month either which is also very annoying.

I thought my reply submitted but it didn’t. My car has done 19,500 miles. 9K of those were done in the last 3.5 months, being a driving instructor. The lads in my Indy garage are good lads, they only replace and charge for what’s required to be changed. So we don’t generally stick to major/minor routine anyway. I send my cars in with the loose instruction of major/minor. So if it’s in for a major but some things are inspected and seen to be fine, they don’t get replaced. Alternatively, if I send it in for a minor and they notice something during their checks, they’ll ring me and ask if I want it done and advise me as to whether it needs doing or will last until the next major service etc. I trust them which is important and they look after us, coming to get us when my wife’s alternator and battery went the way of the dodo at 8pm last January. I’m just happy that 9,400 is standard. It was just bugging me not being 10k.

Hi Guys, I just had my car fully serviced at my local Indy garage, even though my car is still technically under warranty (23 plate). I get all my cars done there and trust them and want to spend my money locally rather than dealerships. Anyway, I noticed this when I first got the car and again now as the service interval has been reset, it’s 9,400 miles till the next service. I know Skoda does fixed and variable service schedules but I’m not sure why it’s not 10,000 or 12 months, whichever is sooner. Is this a normal interval? I’m a driving instructor so with the miles I do, I don’t want to have to get my car serviced 3 times a year and would if the service interval is as low as 9,400 miles. I suppose I could get a major, minor, minor done a year as the minor is only really an oil change. But that’s still a lot. Cheers.

It’s something I thought about Graham, but I’m only starting out as an ADI, so I had so many other expenses I just thought I’d manually manage the dash cam in and out. I’m fairly good with it. I never leave it in over night as it’ll eat the battery.

Sorry I thought I had replied but it doesn’t seem to have posted. I’m reading that modern cars have smart alternators and alter the output based on battery SOC and also engine load. So a lower output might not be of concern as if the battery is over 75% charged and the energy demand isn’t crazy the alternator might not put out over 14 volts charge. It might also what Breezy_Pete was mentioning.

I have a dashcam plugged into that 😂

Thanks, I’m just worried it’s failing. I’m a driving instructor so I can’t afford to be off the road if it is on the way out and it’s still under warranty so if it does fail I want Skoda to fix it.

Yeah, it’s the local Skoda dealership. I just thought 13.5 under load was a bit low and a sign the alternator was packing in. It’s out of warranty in March so I want to get it sorted before it does if it’s failing.

Hi All, I’ve recently multimeter tested my battery as stop start stopped working. I have a 2023 1 litre 110 bhp SEL. The battery was charged to about 12.5 volts, which is okay. So I tested the alternator with the car on and under load. It was kicking out about 13.5 volts, which I thought a bit low as historically I was always told it should be about 14.5 volts. So I rang Skoda and they said it was normal and not to worry. My car is still under warranty so if it goes caput, I will bring it in to them to sort. However, I was just wondering has anyone else had a low-ish reading from their alternator? Is it standard on Mk 4 Skoda Fabias? Cheers.

Hi, I’m glad it was of use. Did you turn the passenger airbag switch on the side of the dash off during your removal? It’s a little key slot on the left side of the trim. Mine fell out when I changed my glovebox so I had to put it back together afterwards, springs and all. That was a dodgy moment.

Fabia went in to be fixed today. No hassle to be fair so that’s good. As predicted, the regulator is caput. So they’ve ordered a new one and will install it tomorrow. No mention of the driving instructor aspect of it. So, once it’s fixed, I can’t complain (aside from being without a car for 2 days and no replacement car offered grrrr)

I’ll keep everyone posted on how it goes with the dealership and warranty. As far as I’m concerned, it’s under warranty and their own wording doesn’t exclude dual control modifications. Hopefully it should be a smooth process. If they give me hassle, I’ll threaten to publicise it and start legal action.

I’ve got it booked in for the 2nd of September, earliest they could do. It’s still under warranty. However, as I’m training to be a driving instructor, I’ve just had dual controls fitted today, so I hope they won’t give me any hassle about the warranty because of the “modification”. I’ve read their warranty statement and it says 2 years unlimited mileage and a 3rd year up to 60,000 miles. Mine has only done 10k so is fine. It does have a disclaimer about modifications that affect/alter the displayed mileage on the car but nothing about dual controls etc. In any case, the window regulator has nothing to do with dual controls, plus this problem happened before they were fitted and their own warranty wording doesn’t exclude driving instructor cars. They must have taxis, company cars and driving instructor cars in all the time. So I’m hoping they don’t give me any hassle about it, I’ll lose my **** if they do …

Sorry, just re-read my reply. I meant regulator and cables, not regular. My irritation has affected my spelling :-)

Yep, that’s the one. So because the window will move, it’s not the motor. It’s the regular and cables that’s screwed. I’m just irritated as it’s a relatively new car, it shouldn’t break after a short time. Plus, I’ve very little free time to actually get it fixed. I just hope Skoda doesn’t give me any hassle in fixing it. It should be still under warranty, so I’m hoping for a swift/easy resolution, probably wishful thinking …

Thanks, but it’s only 2 years old with 10k miles. I’ll have to ring Skoda as it still should be under warranty.

Hi All, I was driving my car this morning and everything was fine. I left the windows down this afternoon as it was a bit hot and I like to let the air circulate. I went to put the windows back up this evening, using the key fob, and the front passenger window went up fine but the driver’s window didn’t. I went out and checked. When I manually put the window up with, the switch on the driver’s door, it made an awful crunching sound starting about two thirds of the way up and it seemed there was a little resistance/struggle in it too. I just thought some grit or a stone got caught in it. But the window isn’t scratched. I finally got it raised fully and I’m not going to put it down again in case I can’t get it back up. Has anyone had anything similar? It’s a 2023 plate with 10K miles on it. Surely the actuator or motor isn’t broken already??? Cheers.

So, finally, I replaced the glovebox today. It arrived way earlier than I expected. So I was right, the final 2 plastic rivets are the last things holding the glovebox in. Once they’re removed, along with all of the other screws mentioned above, the glovebox comes away. But, one thing I did also learn is that, be careful with the airbag on/off switch. Whilst removing the side panel, which houses the switch, it came apart into separate pieces. I reassembled it and reinstalled it, all is well, but just be careful. If you can plug out the connector first so that it’s not attached to the actual switch on the end panel first, that would have been better in hindsight but I wasn’t planning on removing the end panel fully, just enough to get the plastic rivets out. But unfortunately it didn’t work out that. I’m happier I’ve replaced the glovebox now. Even though it’s a used item, it is in better condition than the one I replaced. All the best. Hopefully this thread will help someone else take out their glovebox one day 👍🏻