mlody38

Great idea, buddy. Thank you so much for your help and sharing the diagram.

Hello, after continuing to search for the cause after unplugging the ECU connector, it turned out that the yellow/blue wire is disconnected. It's likely that the wiring harness was bent and a break occurred. Now I need to locate the break. Thank you all for your help in solving this problem.

That's right, buddy, after turning the key again, you can't hear it. So I think there's pressure in the system.

Where can I find this pressure regulator?

I checked the pump and it works for a few seconds after turning the key.

Yes, I even blew it out with contact spray.

No oil or other fluid is missing. The sensor is new.

Hi, I had a different problem last week. My clutch also failed while driving. After disassembling, I discovered something incredible: the teeth on the wicker clutch disc had sheared off. Impossible!!! And it's real. I'll take pictures when I have time. The car is a 2022 model with 24,000 km on the clock.

And if the signal wire is broken, will VCDS indicate a short to positive?

I think so too, especially since it started on the third try after reassembling the transmission. It's as if something isn't connected. Maybe the yellow-blue (signal) wire is actually damaged and makes contact when the ECU plug is unplugged, but then disconnects when plugged back in.

I wrote it wrong, buddy. I checked for a short circuit with the connectors disconnected from the ECU and the sensor. I checked the voltage with the connector connected to the ECU and the ignition on. And the short circuit is only on the green/violet wire to the engine housing. Of course, both connectors were disconnected at the time.

Maybe the ECU itself is going crazy? Because it's the only one controlling the G247 sensor. How can I check that?

I see that both sensors have the same (+), but there's nothing else. I had both plugs disconnected, and the only short was to ground on the green wire, as I described.

I checked the wires, and none of the wires are shorted to each other. The short to engine ground is on the green wire with the purple stripe. But that's probably a minus (-). After checking, the two outer wires are 5.0V. Where should I look next? Maybe a relay?

OK, I'll do that and let you know what happens. And the sensor that VCDS g247 shows is sensor number 04c906054c?

But should I disconnect the ECU connector or leave it on while checking? I'll try to check it as soon as possible.

Does it matter which pins? What if they are shorted?

Hey, I ran a multimeter through the signal cable to the controller, and there's continuity. Sorry for the poor translation.

Hello everyone, I have a problem with my Kamiq 1.0 Tsi. After replacing the clutch, the car wouldn't start, but it only started on the third try. The next day, the same thing happened. It started on the third try, then worked fine, and now it won't start at all. I have one engine fault code: 16097 - Fuel Pressure Sensor (G247) P019300 - Short to Positive. I replaced the sensor, but the same thing happens. Please help me find the cause. Regards, Łukasz.

Master, I can't thank you enough. It turns out my mechanic messed with the fuse box. The pins from fuse no. 2 to no. 10 were swapped, and they're on a different power rail, so the pump was constantly powered. I should add that the wire colors are the same (yellow and red). You've guided me. Thank you very much.

It was damaged and I just replaced it. I thought it was missing and not working properly. Unfortunately, the problem persists. Do you happen to have a wiring diagram? Any other ideas? I wonder why there's constant 12V there, but after locking the car, it disappears for 2 minutes and then reappears.

I don't know anymore. What is this servomotor? Are you talking about the electric shutters in front of the radiators?

I just checked the relay from another car, and it's the same thing. So the relay is fine. But when I lock the car with the central locking, the pump turns on after about 2 minutes, but when I pull fuse number 10, it turns the pump off.

Thank you very much for your help. I figured out which relay it is. Now I need to buy the relay and try replacing it. I'm wondering because I still have power at the pump. After plugging the connector into the pump, it works immediately, even though the key is removed from the ignition.

I checked the wires and there's continuity. I also checked the wire from relay 645 pin 1 to fuse 2 and there's continuity as well. Now I just need to buy a relay and test it.