Ryanthefireman

Hi all, so after delaying and delaying I finally bit the bullet and booked my car in for a Cambelt change and water pump too. The garage I have been using recently, a sole trader, informed me he did not have the special tool required to do it. I found another garage and after visiting and speaking to them, booked it in. I was quoted just over £1000, which I know I would have to spend at some point due to the mileage and age meaning a belt change would be immanent. Done in a day, no issues. And all the problems I had been having are no more. I have left it for a good few weeks incase it did reoccur but so far so good. I am now very confident that my suspicions of it being to do with the electronic shroud part of the water pump was correct. Lets hope I haven’t just jinked it 🤞🏻🙏🏻 Thanks all for you help.

Thank you. Much appreciated.

Hi ApertureS, I realise this thread and your comment are a few years old now, but would you be able to give me an up to date quote for a cambelt, water pump and ancillary belt change on a 2019 Superb 2.0 to please? Where about’s in North London are you please?

Hi all, a quick update. There are two types of thermostats for my car. I’ve tried to see on the housing the manufactures make but that was very tricky. So I’m am going to get it booked in for the work to be done. I’m in North London, Barnet, and have had quotes from Skoda for £1276 for the timing belt and water pump to be replaced. And £999 from a VW, Audi and Skoda specialist. Does anyone have any recommendations for a Skoda specialist for this work in this area please?

Thank you so much for your input. The coolant level is correct and has remained so. A visual inspection by him did not find any other abnormalities like a kinked hose. When it first happened and after researching I did initially jump to a timing belt change and water pump. This was after it happening once but he said to monitor it. As you stated above, I think this is now my course of action. I have spoken to Skoda to obtain the price of a Thermostat as I was looking at doing this myself, but frustratingly they informed me there are two types for my car, Joop and Geiger and the only way to tell is to check which one is fitted. So before I do this I need to strip out the air filter housing to see this.

Hi gfinneran, Thank you for responding. The milegage of my Superb has just hit 71K. The timing belt replacement schedule is 140K 😱 which I can’t get my head around. It’s on my next service schedule to be done with a water pump too which maybe being bought forward and I have explored numerous threads relating to the water pump issues and the shroud. I’ve watch a video on this so now understand how it impacts the water pumps efficiency but there is something boggling at me that it is not that. That is that it gets warm as the thermostats is closed but spikes quickly after a good few minutes of being at that temperature then stabilises. My gut is telling me the thermostats is sticking before opening properly but I didn’t want to say that before getting others takes on this and potentially influencing their initial assessments. If that makes sense.

Hi all, love this forum. Firstly thank you all for the constant help you have provided me to date as a casual user. May I please ask for some guidance for you all My 2019 Superb 2.0 TDI has developed a rather curious problem. I’ve done some research but haven’t found anything quite like this. After not driving my car for a few days, I started a long journey home and with 5-10 minutes the temperature garage went to 130 and the coolant light came on. I pulled over, switched it off. Started checking the usual, coolant levels. Pipes for heat. It wasn’t actually over heating as it hadn’t got hot enough for the whole system to be hot. I started it back up and turned the A/C on know that would get the fans running. The temperature now returned to 90 and I continued on my way. It started to fluctuate but not over heating again. I took it o my mechanic who checked for fault codes and he said the oil temperature had a stored fault which I presume was when the coolant light came on. The oil level was just below half so he topped it up and said that low oil levels can cause it to over heat. I have driven it since mainly with the AC on so have not had it again until recently when I have been regularly getting it after a cold start. Oil temperature gets to about 80-90 and the coolant temp is sitting at 90 all after 5-10 minutes driving then the needle starts creeping. Turn the AC on and it stabilises. Once it’s at temperature and oil temp is about 100 with the AC off it is fine. I have my theories but want to hear from some of you guys first please, before I start spending money of hunches.