pompeyjim

This is helpful. Thanks

Maybe rattle is the wrong word. Resonating would be more accurate. It's definitely the air box as it stops when I put my hand on it. It's 2.0 tdi cr170.

I've got a rattle or vibration around 1300 to 1500 rpm (annoying as that's about 30 mph). I've found that it's definitely the air box doing it. Is this common? It seems to be screwed down properly and tightly. At first I thought it was the second air intake thing as the top had a broken clip but I replaced that. What have other people done to fix it?

Yes. They are brand new tyres too so I'm not too keen on ditching them for the 40's. I did wonder this myself but the difference is only a few mm so I dunno. I think it might be the first motor I've driven with electronic steering so maybe I'm not used to it.

Without looking, I think the fronts should be 32 or about 2.2 bar. I raised it to 35 thinking it would help but it didn't. I'll check the plate.

225/40 18 front. 225/45 18 rear.

About 35 psi. Some clown had fitted the wrong profile tyres to the rear before I bought it. 40's on front, 45's rear. I did wonder if that would affect the sensors and stuff but I can't imagine it would. It's only gonna be mm's difference.

That's funny, I bought mine in September too and also changed the dsg thermostat! I've noticed those lines in the header tank really get effected by the road camber. I thought mine was low but it's just cos I topped it up when parked on other side of the road.

I've been browsing on here as much as I can to see if it's been answered, but can't seem to find an answer. Steering on my '13 tdi feels heavy to me. I've had two garages have a quick drive and say they think it's ok, but I've had two friends say it's heavy (they both have skodas). It's not super heavy like having no power steering, but it's nowhere near "light". I ran a scan and found an 01309 code in the abs module. But, I did the lock to lock calibration and this cleared. I've ran live data on stuff like torque assistance and steering torque and all seems to be working. The dsr is set on 3. I've seen videos on youtube with other vag cars where they've undone the universal joint and greased it and solved heavy steering. Any other ideas would be appreciated before I start taking the carpet up. Thanks.

Looks like the dealer is going to fix it under warranty, fingers crossed. If not, I will post a picture.

I've just bought a 2013 superb 2.0 tdi 170 and the boot has already failed. It starts closing and then beeps 3 times and stops. Occasionally it will work. Mostly no problems with it opening but sometimes it won't open. Now, I've seen there are plenty of posts on here and elsewhere about this problem. Seems like the wiring breaking is a common problem, so I want to look at this first. Having looked at other posts and YouTube vids, people seem to just pop the rubber boot off at the strut end and expose the (potentially) broken wires. Mine seems to have a moulded piece, however. It doesn't seem possible to slide it off. I wanted to know if I'm missing some simple way of removing it before I go slicing open with a blade?

Ok, so after all that, I saw a Superb for sale that the missus really wanted so I got that! Pretty sure it won't be as reliable with all the mod cons

Annoyingly the one for sale locally went so been on the lookout for another. The missus has now decided she wants an automatic. I'm a bit sceptical of these dsg boxes but I've seen a lot of posts on here praising them. They seem to really bump the price up. Looks like mk2 octavias with dsg going for around 4k! Seen one with so called full service history on 100k miles but seemingly no record of dsg service. Probably gonna swerve that one.

Just to be certain, do all 1.9 octavia's have no dpf, including face lift versions? It's a 59 I'm looking at.

Oh yeah I'm similar to that! I think you're right