tham383

Thinking I might have a go at this again. Am I correct in thinking the EGR valve is the silver disc shaped thing just below the windscreen? Its looks easy to access. Anything to watch out for before I try taking it apart?

Still haven't got around to looking at it either. I'm fully used to it now and it doesn't bother me, I'm just worried about a potential MOT failure.

Reassuring... The pulley is newish, since it came and with new alternator at a point last year. So hopefully it will be ok.

Might be clearer as follows: With the fan blades blocked (e.g. using a screwdriver through one of the air vents): A. - Clockwise - pulley can't rotate B. - Anticlockwise - pulley can be turned easily with fingers, but won't continue to spin under its own momentum (too much friction) C. - With the fan blades allowed to rotate freely: You can turn the pulley easily (in either direction) with fingers and it will continue to spin under its own momentum. I'm worried about scenario B .. Should the pulley spin easily under its own momentum in this case?

Forgot to mention this.. The clutch is quite stiff. If I jam the fan blades with a screwdriver, the pulley is easily turnable (in one direction only) with fingers but it certainly won't free wheel under its own momentum like it does with the clutch disengaged. But this alternator including the clutch is new. I still have the old one which seems to be a bit stiffer, but the difference isn't dramatic. Should the pulley be able to free wheel when the clutch is engaged?

Do you reckon its just some type of static plastic 'guide' to restrict the movement of the gearstick to either 1-6 or reverse depending on whether the stick is pressed down or not? That sounds like it may be relatively easy to bodge without actually needing to replace the part but I dont know.

Thanks, 6 speed gearbox though. Could you take a few pictures when you get around to doing the work?

Next on the todo list is a gearbox issue which developed about a year ago. The mechanism which prevents you selecting reverse without pushing down the gearstick seems to be faulty. Trying to select first or second by pushing to the left until meeting resistance results in selection of either reverse, or no gear respectively. To select first and second requires a zen-like intuition to push the stick exactly the correct distance to the left. Not a problem for me any more but i worry that eventually, it will fail an MOT. Is this an easy fix?

By way of an update, the pin came out with gentle pulling using fingers when I used a long handled spanner to jiggle the tension on the pulley. Lucky, because there was no way I was getting pliers down there and be able to put meaningful force on them. The new pulley seems not to have the problem of the old one of thr belt not being properly centred on it, which touch wood will allow the belt to have a proper lifetime before it breaks.

It's the 1.9 VRS. Did you need the long handled spanner to relieve load on the pin when pulling it out? And as for using pliers how did you manage to get access without removing all the intercooler pipework first?

How on earth does one remove the locking pin from a new drive belt tensioner once installed? For starters its very hard to access. I just about managed to grip the end of the pin with some water pump pliers, but the spring is holding it in with so much force that I have no chance of pulling it out from this awkward angle. Am I meant to use a long handled spanner to push back the tensioner slightly (to release load on the pin?). In which case wouldn't it be easier just to remove the pin before installing and use that spanner to re-fit the belt?

VIN number TMBWU46Y644******

I think the hose with the duct tape is connected to the coolant tank, part number 6Q0122447CE .

I believe I found the part number for some of the hoses (6Q0130307AJ) and prices are astronomical for what it is. But this seems to be for a pre-cut length of two hoses (fuel filter discharge and return) taped together. Hopefully there should be something out there with a suitable pressure and temperature rating that I can just cut to size.

Reading around a bit I think you're right in regard to the hoses attached to the fuel filter these are low pressure. I'm less certain about the hose at the back with the duct tape (in my original photo in the first post).