TomTriton

Hi. Seems like window issues come in threes! This time the rear nearside electric window jams when rising. This seems to be because it is tipping towards the central (B?) pillar. I've taken off the trim and covering by the C pillar but can't see anything obviously wrong on this side. Access to the inside by the B pillar seems to be by taking off a plate onto which the motor is attached. I haven't done it yet as am not sure how fiddly it is. Was also thinking about greasing the rubber channels first because maybe it is getting stuck there on this side. Any tips or suggestions? Cheers Tom

Ah thanks. Not major important. I actually ripped the speaker out by drilling through the rivets as I mistakenly believed that would be the best way to get to the broken wiring so there is no speaker anyway atm and I have to find a way to reattach it without a rivet gun.

Thanks so much for your help once again!

Ok managed to reconnect the white and grey with solder and heat shrink. The windows are working fine now - thanks so much Pete! Have left the other two severed wires - brown and blue and blue only - as I have things to do but will come back to them at some later date. ANy idea what these one do and whether they are important?

Actually I've managed to detach the bellows where it connects to the body and you are correct! The white and grey wire is severed. Also there is a blue wire and a blue and brown wire also severed. I can't see the other end of the grey one so I'm going to have to get the speaker off to get to it. Is it ok to just solder in a bit of wire and heat shrink to fix this? I don't really understand how this has happened - its weird!

I've taken the door trim off. Do I have to get the speaker off (seems to be riveted on) in order to access the wires that go through the bellows or is it possible to get the bellows off from the outside? Bit worried about forcing it off and not being able to reattach...! (Cheers for your prompt help btw!) Btw is there a wiring diagram for the window system for a roomster? I'm struggling to find one online.

Thanks - got it. I'll have a look.

Apologies for my ignorance but what is an A-Pillar?

Hi all. A few months ago I posted wrt an issue on my driver's door window on my Skoda Roomster which was going up and down by itself. I sort of fixed it by taking apart the motor and spraying switch cleaner onto the tracks and so far there have been no further issues with this window. HOWEVER, yesterday the OTHER 3 electric windows (i.e. passenger and rear windows) stopped working - just seemingly completely dead and will not respond to their own control or to the driver's door controls. Weirdly, the driver's door window is fine! I haven't taken anything apart yet as I was wondering what to try first. Any suggestions gratefully received! Cheers. Tom.

Just a quick update... so far it is still ok and the issue hasn't returned. I didn't take it apart any further so I don't know whether it was badly corroded in that moisture trap area. The spray I used was Deoxit (Hosa-DeoxIt-D5S-6) which is a pretty pricey switch cleaner that I use for scratchy potentiometers on audio equipment. Based on what BreezyPete said it prob won't last and if it starts acting up again I'll find a way to restore the tracks. Will add to the post if there is any change....

That's a good make. I have that one too. Quality Japanese tool.

Blimey - I see what you mean with the corrosion! I think I got lucky on the disassembly as it still works despite not doing the levering trick you show in the vid - good tip! By the 'thru hole connector' that needs desoldering, do you mean this thing? How did you desolder? And did you manage to do some kind of workaround for the corroded tracks? Sorry for all the questions!

Damn! I thought I'd cracked it! Thanks Pete. No rush on the pics but would be greatly appreciated.

Bit of an update. I took the motor/controller unit out and took it apart. Couldn't see much corrosion or moisture on the tracks but the bit under the carbon brushes/commutator I couldn't really get to or see properly (it wasn't coming apart easily and I didn't want to force it). However, it struck me that possibly the carbon spraying off the brushes might be causing some shorting on the tracks directly under it (the bits I can't see!) so I blasted air into that area through a narrow gap and then some contact cleaner and reassembled everything. Tested it for about 20 minutes and seems to be working fine but I won't know for sure whether it is fixed without a longer test. Will give you an update in a few days if it is still good or earlier if it goes bad again! Thanks again for your help

Sure will. Probably take a little while for the part to come. I might try and have a look at the circuit of the original tonight before ordering the replacement if it is easy to get to (I imagine probably not!). I have some electronics experience so might be worth a look.

Thanks again Pete!

Hi again. WRT matching the part numbers the closest I can find has the same main part code (6Q1959801J) and is very close on the SK number - so mine is SK258D4DRS whereas the one on ebay is SK250D4DRS. The ebay part came from a fabia whereas mine is a roomster. Do you think this will work?

Thanks for the heads up!

Awesome. Thanks so much Breezy! I think I have found the correct part . Is it relatively easy to swap in the replacement one or is there some fiddly aligning to do?

Hi all, My 2009 Roomster's driver's side window has become conscious (!) and is going up and down by itself and I can't quite figure out why. The fault is intermittent. I've tried recalibrating the fully open and close points (by clicking three times or holding on for a few secs) but that doesn't seem to be the issue. I have also disconnected the control switches and the window will still move by itself. Sometimes it is fine for a while and then fault kicks in again. Might go up or down - seemingly random. I tested the voltages on what seemed to be the correct wire for that window (black and green) and was reading 2.9V or thereabouts when the fault was happening [usually 10.7 is off, 0.9V is down and 5V is up]. I'm thinking I will prob have to buy a new motor/controller unit from ebay which seems to be about £50 but I'd thought I'd check with you guys first to make sure there is not some simple and cheaper solution that I am overlooking. I thought maybe a faulty signal/short coming from the lock (as you can close/open the windows using the driver's door lock) but then this would presumably make all the windows behave erratically and not just the driver's. Cheers in advance. Tom, UK