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Deereman44

Finding my way
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  1. OK. I have ran the vehicle since on Esso 99 and have had some hot runs with the RPM sitting at 4K on average when possible. After some hot running and then coming into a 30mph village, I had no hesitation :) but after I parked up earlier today, had a drink and then went out to do some more live data with some more options turned on, the car instantly starting misfiring on the drive at the 1500/1800 rpms and did its hiccups at 30mph. I have noticed it can be fine and then do a restart and then it wont be in the past. Anyway, I have been live recording and whilst on the latest italian tune up, the LFT's were -5 to -10 fast road / under load with SFT's -10 to +20 (for the most part) Then on the second drive after a break which was more normal driving, the LFT's were at a more constant -15 with SFT's bouncing between - 15 to +25 The other values I added were o2 sensors and from what I can read, they appear to be reacting according to throttle / load accordingly. I also looked at throttle body requested vs commanded and this does appear to be off despite being re calibrated on diag tool in the past and again recently. Throttle body actual position will always sit at a higher percentage to requested until top end where the requested will overtake actual. Could it be throttle body internal sensors are packing up.. perhaps? Then finally, I looked at rail pressures and according to the results I have seen on the big web, these appear to be a bit high too. Just as an example from a couple of points on my graph, at both 4K and 2.5K RPM, the fuel pressure still seems to be around the 20mpa, which (correct me if I'm wrong) but this is too high. It didnt even drop below 12mpa when idling. I have attempted to rule out the pressure sensor by checking voltages with key on to power, earth and signal and all appear in check. The values themself do appear to be dropping with engine off and proceeded to further drop when I cracked a line at the HPFP. So Id like to say the sensor is ok.. Could my HPFP be stuck / jammed causing a high pressure delivery of fuel which would explain the constant negative LFT's trying to counter? Odd how I have never had a fuel pressure code come up before though. Or am I trying to justify my latest diag readings? 🤣
  2. Hi all. Thanks for the replies and suggestions. Much appreciated and its good to hear of other peoples stories and issues. I have not tried premium fuel yet and even though, im doubtful, i will give it a go. I didnt find the injector cleaner nor fuel conditioner help. With regards to o2 sensors. Yes i forget to mention i did test these. Voltages / graph of them bouncing from top to bottom on bank 1 looked good and operational. Bank 2 / downstream was steady. Air box, maf, map, throttle body, piping all been stripped, inspected and cleaned. New seals on throt bod inc seals on air pipe to turbo. Car is manual so no dsg Fuel trims.. from memory and i cannot find a screenshot were bouncing from -20 to +20 depandant on drive but would level out to near 0 when crusing or idling. Long term would sort it self out and be +/- 5-10 I will try some prem fuel and and an italian tune as i have a big A road very near me with some hills.. bye bye good mpg 😅
  3. Thanks, forgot to say how I have had the intake off with a camera down to the valves. Thanks for the response though.
  4. I went from a MK7 Golf with lots of tech and spec to a MK5 Golf when i came back to the UK. Then when I went for the skoda, i was able to get a newer car in a reasonable spec for the same price as a less than good con and higher mileage VW. Another example is my other half has a Scala, which is newer than mine but a lot of the parts like the brakes are off a mk4 golf! Plus no Electronic Park Brakes.
  5. Generally, i dont like to be one of those people to open up another topic that has been exhausted time and time again, but after extensive research, i really am struggling to find a forum response that matches fully with my issue. I brought my 1.2 tsi 2016 CJZD Rapid earlier this year. As soon as I picked up the car, i noticed the issue, but the garage i purchased it from had wiped their hands clean. Since then, i have been trying to research and diagnose the issue without throwing the parts cannon at it. I am experiencing misfires and hesitations at 1500 and 1800 rpm which generally can be replicated on the driveway as well as on the road when your at 30mph and your not under load. When driving, the hesitation and mini kangaroo hops occur when going from gliding to applying a little load. Similar to if you were slowing up to a roundabout and then reach for a few revs to pull away gently. The severity of the hesitation and hops can vary sporadically or with temperature of the car and even the temp outside. No codes on diag tool other than random mis fires on all cylinders. Unsure of when they were last done, first things first, changed the plugs with oil and air filter change too. Oil flush and injector cleaner used too. Technicians at work said coils all day long despite me testing them and the wiring. But i changed them, but it did not cure the issue. From there, checked live data whilst driving and it was running rich at low revs but not high. I checked all hoses and pipes and changed out some seals before smoke testing the system. I had a theory that if the coolant temp sensor was reading incorrectly and the ecu thought it should still be in cold mode, that would cause the timing to be pulled and could cause similar symptoms. So when the diag tool said 70 degrees when the dash said 90, i swapped out the sensor. Cold starts are better but the misfires remain. Performed a leak down and even though there was leakage, it was not terrible and was consistent across the board. Any ideas guys?
  6. Afternoon all. Early this year, i made the plunge. I moved across to Skoda from VW. Perhaps they are all the same or perhaps im just getting older and actually, having a decent car with a few less gadgets and a more affordable price tag is more important to me. Anyway, hi all.

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