Sampolainen

It's completely normal to mist after AC has been used. The vaporiser is cold and because of that it collects moisture. If you switch off the ac a couple of minutes prior to arriving at your destination, the misting should go away. If not then there might be a problem.

My fork had a gap of 19mm between prongs and prong length of 70mm. Total length was 200mm, I wouldn't get anything longer or you will not have room to work with it.

Just so happens that I changed one of those joints yesterday. It absolutely refused to come off with just a hammer and using a decent crowbar for leverage. Didn't budge at all. I had to go get one of those fork-thingies. And even with that I really had to let go with the hammer, it was jammed good in there. But in the end I managed to get it out and another one in. I agree with not using the fork-thing unless you're replacing the joint, probably not coming off without damaging the seal but that's obviously dependant on how well it's stuck.

Above the numberplate is good, it'll give nice contrast. And after that, those bumper strips

Bottom right of boot lid! Do it!

I've installed one of their kits. Worked ok for ~2 years then suddenly stopped. Haven't yet gotten around to figuring out what's wrong with it. Installation is probably a lot easier now that they sell that mk4 golf direct fit loom. I'd buy that within a heartbeat if I was installing another one these, I'd think it fits the octavia as well?

Yes but then it will fail MOT due to that :( Would've done it ages ago if it didn't. But thanks for your advice, I'll get to the cleaning and checking them PCV-tubes.

I managed to dig something from vagcat's illustrations. Is the egr valve the same as "Secondary air control valve" ? If so, then it is the part in question.

I'm doing some spring maintenance on the car and I thought it would be good to check the condition the EGR valve is in. But uhh... where's the damn part? Or is there such in thing on this engine? In this picture I have circled the two most suspect parts in red. I believe it is the one closer to the top of the picture. How does it come off? Couldn't really see back there all that well, some pointers would help alot. http://aijaa.com/006999982671 Does anyone know how's the oilcap-thingy (in blue) mounted on to the top? It's got a leaking seal that I need to fix as well. I don't dare try just yanking it off

When changing automatic transmission oil always change the filter as well. If you do this yourself, find out the proper procedure to doing it, usually not just "drain and refill".

Thanks for this. I hope mine doesn't turn out to be a faulty CCU. How much did you pay for a replacement?

I was just about to tackle a similar drain. I'll be following this closely.

+1, interested as well. Or more so, could doing this wake up sleeping dragons within the linkage? I'm sure after 230tkm something has become a bit mis-aligned

Mine was in good condition. It was the connection between the cable and fuse that had failed, the nut had come loose. I applied thread-lock to it now, I think it'll stay together a bit better. But it's good to know that the crimp part can (and will, probably ) also fail, I'll have to keep an eye on it. Thanks for the info. Edit: on a second thought, maybe I better take another look at that crimp... on the alternator end as well. Reading that mod-thread about the wire I realised it was just like mine had gone. Any one have the part number for the cable handy?

Luckily I managed with just changing the box. Cable was well enough to be still used. Gotta keep an eye on it every now and then though to make sure the problem does not re-occur

Thanks. The moment the charcoalcanister starts being difficult, it gets this treatment.

Aight, all fixed up now. Old fusebox was pretty knackered: New installed. All's well now for a while, I hope

May I contribute?

Huge thanks guys, I actually managed to do a quick fix and get home with the kids. I found another thread here that had a "duct tape solution" for a temporary fix here. I took both the black and red wires and put them directly on to the terminal and hey presto it was up and running. I'll start looking for a new fuse box and assorted parts tomorrow(got the part no's from the other thread as well. Gotta love briskoda ) , luckily the car is not needed very often so there's no need to drive it around in an un-fused condition. And 'conveniently' this has apparently solved the problem with the battery losing charge.

I was just about to go home but apparently the car decided it doesn't want to move. Or do anything at all. I started her up and just as she started, everything went silent, total loss of electricity everywhere. I checked the fuses as best I could and found this in the fuse box on top of the battery: Fuse box From a quick search on here briskoda, I found out that the black wire goes to the alternator. This one has melted it's surroundings a bit. But this shouldn't cause a total loss everywhere, right? But the red one next to the black is the "main fuse interior" which does sound like a possible culprit. But looking from the top, it seems to be ok? Sucks that this happened just now since I'm stuck with the kids away from home :( Any tips at all what to do?

I'd replace both as well unless the belt has just been replaced. Like <10K miles and <1 year ago.

In case you still have not managed to fix this, I've a tip for you. Get some contact cleaner and spray it at the stalk's base while moving the stalk up and down. This fixed my problems and only cost 4€.

Most probably a bearing. Might not have any play when checked and still be bad. As I understand it, it's mostly the rear bearings that fail.

Does have internals though

Get a can of electrical contact cleaner and spray liberal amounts at the root of the indicator stalk. Will probably fix it, no need to disassemble anything thing. I had the exact same symptoms as you and this is how I dealt with it. Also it worked on an acquintance's mkiv golf that had the same problem. Cheap, too. HTH