chrisps

Bit of a long shot, but I made a car bed for our Superb Mk3 to turn it into a camper car (or SUV RVing, as the American's would call it). Unfortunately the car got written off and we now have a Kodiaq. So I don't have need for it, and its cluttering up our garage. However I don't really want to bin it, as I was quite proud of the engineering! So, would anyone like (for free) a car bed, and associated foam mattress? You'd need to pick it up from near Gloucester. Its contoured to take up the entire back of the car behind the front seats. It fits me at 6'4". It is split 60/40ish, so that you can either have a full width double bed (at the shoulders), or you can take one side out and have a single with a bike or something else down the side. The mattress is also cut (somewhat badly, tbh) at the same point. Its designed so that you can lift up the boot section and store (quite a lot) of stuff under the bed. Its made of a number of parts (see photos) so that you can easily take it in and out. The whole lot collapses into the boot, so you can put the back seats up... although you have virtually no boot when you collapse it. All the wood is varnished for protection. I also stuck foam onto the sleeping surface so we could use our camping mats on it without risking puncturing them... that was before I decided to make a mattress Works really well, so please save it from the tip! If nothing else, then this is a somewhat belated project write up of a project which I was quite proud of, and I / we have had many a night sleeping in this on the way to places, or when going away for a weekend! Photos: https://www.amazon.co.uk/photos/share/xsC1xcugSmhHLp3o7b7cvItsnDIcjzsQYoR27y6kbFT

Very sadly, my 2016 Superb Estate L&K was written off recently, and I'm looking at a Kodiaq 150 4x4 DSG as a replacement. However, with the new road tax scheme, I really want to keep the P11D value below 40k to avoid the extra £350 for 5 years. With the spec I want (electric driver seat, travel assist, heated windscreen), it means I can only tick either the rough road pack or the LED Ambient Lighting pack. I realise this is a proper 1st world problem, but I am wondering if I tick the LED Ambient pack, can I buy the engine underguard and add it in later? I've had a bit of a Google, but can't find anything. Anyone else tried doing this? Thanks!

Yeah, that would be useful to know how you get on seeing as you have just gone to the same rating as me

Ok, thanks both; thats useful. I should be able to compensate for any lack of compliance with a different DCC setting I would have thought (I tend to leave it in sport at the minute) Thanks!

Hi, I want to get some Michelin CrossClimate+ tyres for the MY16 Superb Estate which currently has Pirelli P7s (OEM). The load rating of the P7s is 94. Michelin recommend CrossClimate wheels at a load of 98. Looking at the MOT regulations, it suggests that anything higher than spec is ok. Phoning my insurance (Aviva), they seemed fairly non-plussed about higher ratings and said that all-season tyres tend to come in a higher rating anyway. However, looking at various threads, there is a suggestion that higher rated tyres will throw out pressures etc. I have requested a certificate of conformity from VW to see what they say, but I imagine thats going to take a while to come. So, does anyone know a) if the Superb COC has a specified maximum load rating, or b) if putting a 98 instead of a 94 on sounds like a bad idea? Thanks!

Hi, Sorry for the slow reply; been away on holiday, but thank you very much for the info. Sounds like it does need a service then and the dealer was being a numpty! The dealer that reset it wasn't the one I bought it from, so I'll go back to them instead and explain what happened, I think! Thanks again, Chris

Hi, My August 2016 Superb Mk3 started saying "oil change in 28 days" last week, at about 7,100 miles (I got it ex-SUK management @ 3k miles in March). Seemed a bit early, as when I picked it up, I thought it was on variable services. But anyway, rung the dealer to book a service and they told me categorically that the car was wrong (having looked it up); it should be 18k miles or 2yrs and I should bring it in to have its computer reset, which I did. The car now says oil change due in 365 days or 9532 miles (odd distance!). Looking at the manual, it seems there can be different variable service intervals, and am wondering if the dealer has made a mistake. Anyone else got any experience of this? Don't want to damage the car or void the warranty. I noticed another similar thread (named "Bloody incompetent dealers"), but that seemed to be an issue with a car-lease scheme. Thanks! Chris

@TLV - Thanks for that. Definitely sounds like it should be ok. In terms of hardware in the vehicle, I realise that, but pretty sure that the L&K here has all the necessary hardware for what I want (its such a cheap factory option, I am surprised they don't just put it on all of them really!)

I guess another way to look at it is: Is there a list of people who actually do VCDS a lot? I know there is the list of people with VCDS devices, but it seems like most of them are just like me and have bought one. Is there a list of people who I could talk to who have a lot of experience? I have seen a few people around on the forums who obviously know their stuff, but no one in the Bristol area. Thats good to know! Every hand any miss-haps with that approach?!

Is it not just a case of following the instructions? I can totally see this point of view. I guess my feeling was that if I was in the position of having an unlimited vehicle VCDS, I would still be pretty unwilling to touch someone else's car, in case it went wrong... therefore I wouldn't want to put someone else in that position.

Cool, thanks!

That's really useful! Thank you for that. With the "auto scan and leave open" method, is that a sort of "simulation" - i.e. see what you are about to change before you commit, does does it simply log what is sending to the car? Thanks again

I am about to take delivery of a Superb estate (build date August 2016) L&K. One thing that it doesn't have, but I really want is the traffic sign reading. Unfortunately the dealer can't enable this (I offered the £80 it costs as a factory option ). Similar for high beam assist. I know from the thread on here, that these can be enabled with VCDS and I am considering buying one. I realise that VCDS is use at your own risk, yada, yada, but I am trying to build an appreciation of what the actual risks are. As such, is anyone able to comment on the following: - Are there known examples, when using the latest version of VCDS of "bricking" the ECU / needing replacement? - Are there specific things that can go wrong, that are catastrophic; e.g. losing power, or the lead falling out etc when between changes? Looking at the instructions for road sign changes, you have to make multiple changes in multiple places - Is there a way of rolling back if you screw something up? I have heard mention that VCDS can do some kind of confiig save? Does this allow you to roll back if it doesn't work? - Are there particular changes that are more risky than others? E.g. are some changes just rejected by the car if they don't make sense vs some changes overwriting a critical bit of ECU firmware? - Does VCDS have any type of protection against you being silly and clicking something which would be catastrophically bad? - Is there any way of checking components before starting, to see if you have a different version to tutorials etc (and would this be obvious to someone with no experience)? - Is there a specific unit that is safer? I know that there are different versions and HEX-NET? Thanks!

Ah, thats interesting... only just read this (having asked the dealer to do it at a service last week). Yes, I am talking about the keyless opening, not pressing keyfob buttons. Apparently the dealer tried, but it kept re-setting to just unlock the drivers door every time they turned the car off! Apparently they see very few Kessy cars, so are not that familiar with the settings for them though. I will try looking at the menus again!

I tested locking my keys in the boot too. Definitely possible! Good job I did it on my drive with the spares sitting by the front door! With regards to the doors not responding, I find that if I have left the car for a long time, I have to pull the door handle, wait half a second or so and pull it again then it seems to unlock. On a related note, does anyone know if it is possible to make it so that when you pull the drivers door, it unlocks all doors instead of just the one door? My girlfriend doesnt seem to like the car not letting her into the passenger side when I get in :P.