Tiberius

Ive just finished fitting a recon steering rack. When fitting the track rod ends and sort of tracking it by by eye to parellel position, the end only screwed in about 5-6 turns 10-11 mm in length at each side. Has it engaged enough thread? Or has the wrong rack been sent?

Ive crash into a 4 x 4 and come worse off :( My fault and my ego is far worse than the car. However I need to get a front bumper and bumper support panel and front panel. Has anyone tried the a non genuine versions at all? and if so how did they fit?

Hi, I had a problem a few months ago where I had several fault codes, see thread http://briskoda.net/octavia-i/anyone-changed-ecu/135538/ I replaced the power relay to the ECU and all was well until about 2 weeks ago and the car went into fault again. Slowly it became more frequent, now its permanent. The car now wont rev over 3000RPM and has no pull to go anywhere. If you try to accelerate over 2500rpm while on the move the car rattles (like a pinking sound) with plumes of smoke out of back. The fault comes after 10-15 minutes of driving from cold. A scan gives the same codes as last time, 17946 - Fuel Shutoff Solenoid (N109): Open or Short to Ground P1538 - 35-00 - - 17849 - EGR Valve (N18): Open Circuit or Short to Ground P1441 - 35-00 - - 19561 - Valve for Intake Manifold Flap (N239): Open or Short to Ground P3105 - 35-00 - - 18027 - Glow Plug Relay (J52): Open or Short to Ground P1619 - 35-00 - - 17957 - Boost Pressure Regulation Valve (N75): Open or Short to Ground P1549 - 35-00 - - and DTC memory code occasionally. I have cleaned the relay sockets, ECU connector, fuse holders, fuses and the connectors under the plastic cover under the wiper motor with switch cleaner then with some silcone grease and it made no difference (simalar cage mod). The solenoids measure about 15 ohms, except the N239 which is 30 ohms. I drove around with a volt meter connected into the N75 12V supply and it never moved below 14.2 volts in fault or not in fault. Fuel shut off sol alway about 14Vdc also. I have cleaned and made new ground connections for ECU still with no affect. Opened the ECU power relay and checked the contact and theyre ok. The only thing i can think left is to rip a branch off a tree and start whipping the car bonnet with it and swearing at it. Would anyone have any better suggestions at all. Im going for a little cry now. Thx

Found this on a search, dont know if its any good though:- ecutool

Looks like the ECU power relay on this car is a 469 relay, and damm that relay for giving me trouble for the past 6 months. Replace and everything is running fine, thanks to you all.

When I took it out to have a look, it appeared that the potentiometer had worn very thin at the top end and was very clean, so I guess the resistance was wrong that day. Got a part no of 8L0 919 673E from ETKA

Thanks all, Just looked on Autodata and that only gives me a circuit diagram, but without the relay identifiers :( Will try lummox's suggestion tommorrow and report back. Maybe put a voltmeter in Fuse 34 to see if that saves time.

Thank for advice on the 428 relay but I dont think its fitted to this model. There is no additional relay box mounted on the bulkhead next to air filter. I cannot find it in the footwell either. But one of the relays must be powering the ECU does anyone know which one from this picture??

Erm, looked under the bonnet for the 428 relay next to the air cleaner and its not there. The box isnt even there for the relay. Anyone have any idea where it is?

The current ECU is thowing up a few codes that I cant get rid of. I can drive around for and hour with the laptop connected and showing no codes, then all of a sudden I get these codes together. I think that when the ECU gets warm a dry joint makes a bad connection. 17957 - Boost Pressure Regulation Valve (N75): Open or Short to Ground P1549 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent 18027 - Glow Plug Relay (J52): Open or Short to Ground P1619 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent 17849 - EGR Valve (N18): Open Circuit or Short to Ground P1441 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent 19561 - Valve for Intake Manifold Flap (N239): Open or Short to Ground P3105 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent 17660 - Cold Start Injector (N108): Open or Short to Ground P1252 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent 01314 - Engine Control Module 013 - Check DTC Memory - Intermittent Airbags 00532 - Supply Voltage B+ 07-10 - Signal too Low - Intermittent Centr. Locks 01044 - Control Module Incorrectly Coded 35-00 - - Someone of tdiclub has had a simalar problem and was fixed with another ECU. So I was going to get a new or secondhand ECU and install it, just wandering if anyone had? and how to go about it.

Haven't yet priced new. Some on ebay about £175, but they arent the correct letter suffix. I have only one code, that came in a white plastic holder. So it looks to be a dealer job, ouch.

Just wondering if anyone had changed an ECU, and how was the information tranfered from one to another? i.e. chassis number, milage, etc? or is it not stored on the ECU.? Its on a 2005 1.9tdi ALH Thx in advance

Filled my car up this morning with diesel from empty and the gauge took 40 minutes during my commute to get to 5/8th of the way full. Checked it again about 1 1/2 hour later and its show nearly full (about right). Any ideas? Changed the fuel filter yesterday, but cant see any relevance of that.

Ive got a 2005 tdi 90hp 1U ocy. I think the vacuum servo is leaking. When car is running and i press the brake pedal a few times and it starts to get stiff after 3rd or 4th press, or is this normal? It also gets get a lot of N18, N75 and vacuum valve fault, but cant find any leaks in that part of system. I know that a leaking servo has happened to some cars before, does anyone know exactly where they leak? Any advice greatly appreciated.

last pair i got were AVON AV ZV5 and are doing rather well. Bought them from https://www.tyre-shopper.co.uk. They use any national tyre depot for the fitting and cost about £100+vat for the pair.

Leisureshack gives a basic diagram on its online catalogue. LINK Exhausts - Skoda - Octavia - Octavia 1.6i 4 06/98- - Leisure Shack

I had the same symtoms last week on Octavia 90 Tdi. The timing belt tensioner had failed, making the belt loose and susequently the timing jumped a tooth. Then the engine sounded like a tank and had no power. If possible try and remove top cover from the timing belt (or just pull it to one side) and see if the toothed timing belt is taut. I would run the engine again if it is obviously loose, as it mght cause more damage.

HI, Ive got a 2005 Octavia 1.9tdi (NON PD) It lacking a bit of power and the EM light is on. VAG-COM indicated a "17571/P1163 Fuel Temp Sensor (G81): Open or Short to Plus" Temperature was reading -5.7C constantly. Reading around, I am pretty sure i can fit a 1K resistor in place of the sensor (for now). However i am unsure which wires are connected to the temp sensor on the pump loom. There is a 10 way connector for the pump which i hope i can break into and fit the resistor. I think its pin 5 and 6 on the connector, can anyone confirm?

New to this Just bought a bargain of a Octavia Classic 1.9TDi 2005, So i thought i would share my pride with fellow aficionados. TTFN