idontbelieveit

Hi Thanks everyone for your advice. I am posting some pics up of the callipers and the ill fitting discs which were fitted at the local Mitsubishi dealership. If anyone is any good at identifing brembo calliper models I would love to know which version they are and what size discs should be fitted. Thanks again

hi I have an octy mk1 which has had brembo callipers installed on the front, does anybody know where i can get some new pads for them from? It seems most online shops that sell brembo pads are for oem callipers and discs and wont fit. cheers james

hi the 10 mil bolts holding the wastegate in position on my car have come loose, and now i cant seem to get the setting right. Could anbody tell me if there is a method to setting it up? if somebody could provide a boost plot that would be helpful since adjusting the wastegate seems to effect boost lower down the rpm range and if i know roughly what boost pressure i should see at 2500 rpm in 3rd gear (currently about 9 psi at full throttle) i can adjust it to that thanks jay

Maybe so, Facts are im producing alot more torque and hp than i was, and it cost me nawt when compared to some of the prices offered. Boost pressure spikes at roughly 20psi and holds at 14-15psi (roughly) don't forget we're talking a 100quid here, i wouldn't expect it to be better than something 3 times the price... but still, not bad for the dough!

Not sure what map is contained but what i can tell you is they never opend the ECU, it was done on the bench and programmed via its connection port that the wiring harness inserts into. No fault codes and ive been driving in hard and normal conditions for 3 days! I think they only offer a postal service, so even if you live close you would have to send your ecu away. I think its alot more expensive if you take the car to em.

no, they didnt come from manufacturer I produced them this morning on vag com peaks at 350 NM

it is NM stupid me!!

This remap was from ecuevolution, newport it was a postal remap £107 quid including p+p For this money i aint gunna complain! RR would give correct values i know, but to be honnest, its very quick and thats all that matters to me! besides there isn't one for miles where i live. Vag com reports these values.

updated graph

pink is torque blue is RPM sorry its not the best graph in the world. should be torque against rpm.

hi all No doubt there are some threads on this subject but i bit the bullet and sacrificed 100 quid in the name of research. First impression, what a bargin! Graphs below: I would be interested to hear your comments.

ok found cause. the oil powerd hydraulic piston which lifts the chain to advance the inlet cam is sticking. I am putting 2 and 2 together here, if its sticking its going to take longer to lift the chain. hence assuming the changeover is at 3500 rpm its taking a little longer than usual. any thoughts?

i see where your coming from. either way it seems its standard that it has that blip since mine yours and kennys has it... could it be electronic cam control moving the cams? does anybody know anything about this?

mines not been remapped, i havent had the car since new. It only requests standard boost, I just checked out kennys torque graph from the jettex mod, his is the same!

Hmm.. i cant work out what it is...i thought it might be the vvt, but that runs constantly. I think i feel it because at the same time my boost dips from say 10-11 psi to 9 psi, i can hear the turbo change pitch and its not as fast as the first "punch" of boost.. hmm, anybody else had the same thing or is it standard?

I marked it on the graph below! Sorry for steeling your graph, too wet to do a run now!

Yep! i took my foot off, i should have removed it! I just looked at you graph of torque again! i noticed yours does the same thing! at 3500 rpm, the hp levels out before picking up again! is that normal?

ok have been on the phone to skoda. I asked, is it standard that you get a boost spike then it "retards" then boost comes back in, no they say... I'm stumped! its not requesting anything other than normal boost as far as I can see. 1000 mbar is atmospheric pressure so it always starts at 1000 mbar. I can't think of anything else I haven't checked!

oK Here is a new graph.... this is confusing the hell out of me now.... you can see the dip in requested boost (blue) This was done in 2nd gear and this decrease in boost occured at exactly 3500 rpm, i found it does this in every gear if i plant the throttle. Even more weared! if i disconnect n75 so running 4psi boost, the requested boost line looks exactly the same, what i mean is it dips at 3500rpm.... this must be the standard map? since this is what its asking for...? strangly, i always make 240 + Nm at this point, could it be a torque limiter if there is such a thing? Anybody out there got their standard boost log?

ta, thats really helpful mine seems to be running more torque, which gear did you do it in? also, does anybody have a graph of standard boost? at the time when my car slows in acceleration, the boost drops, that is the yellow line in the graph i posted, you can see how it peaks then suddenly requests less and less then more as the revs climb.... weared, but it must be a known issue, i found this from an audi with same problem... http://img482.imageshack.us/img482/1474/boostxw2.jpg my boost is reacting exactly the same at same rpm although at a lower pressure...

I still havent found an answer to this, but it looks like a few audi tt owners have had simular issues, I just don't get why it backs off at 3500-4000 rpm, thats where the dip is in my torque plot above, then picks up again! stumped! found plenty of threads but no answers any ideas anybody?

I have done the throttle body clean, yeah my vac can mod still helps.. Is your car still surging? or did you get to the bottom of it?

I have attached some vagcom data. you can clearly see the drop in torque.

Hi I dont want to start another thread on hesitaion but i have a question. When i put pedal to metal in 2nd gear I boost up to the standard 10-11 psi boost spike and settle at 9psi, but at around 3500rpm the engine backs down a bit and then seems to rocket at 4000rpm. It sometimes does this in 3rd but never 4th or 5th. Now ive heard that the ecu is specifially designed to do this, to encourage you to change sooner and save the planet? I hear that seats do the same? The problem never occurs if i accelerate with the car (like i should be!), ie pushing the gas slowy as i accelarate. No fault codes Only thing i would say is i see a higher knock voltage on cylinder 2 than 1,3 or 4, but the knock sensor is mounted on cylinder 2 so maybe thats why? When the instance occurs i see 18 volts of knock on cylinder 2, but no fault code or timing attenuation/retard in vag com. I swapped over all the injector and ignition coils from this cylinder but made no difference! Is anybody else aware of this or has something else broken?

if your absolutely sure there are no leaks, its came to find a larger vac can to play with.