Dieselman

You must be thinking of a trip to the outback.

Remove the rack and try heating the strip with a low temperature hot air gun/hairdryer.

I might approach a maker, but suspect there will be a setup cost for the stitching pattern and there may be trademark issues.

It's interesting to see that owners of standard cars tend to keep them much longer than owners of modified ones. I think that applies to all makes and models. I know someone that purchased a Mk2 VW Golf GTi new in August 1991 and still has it today. It was their only car all that time. Perhaps owners of modified ones are never satisfied with the car once modified, perhaps the mods didn't fulfil the expectation, or created other, unexpected, traits. Everything is a trade off. Certainly, once cars are regarded as classics, typically, the closer to standard the more desirable.

I have searched but not found the answer. Where can I buy a new Rhd drivers floor mat (black, vRs logo, bound edges). Anyone have a part number? I also need a single hold down clip, I believe is p/n 1UZ898863 TIA

Thanks. I've ordered a Hella one, which I believe are also Behr, but then also believe Mahle to be too. Either way, Hella should be OK and it is specified to be dimensionally correct.

Sorry to bring up a topic that has probably been done to death, but a quick search didn't reveal the answer. Which manufacturer makes the original radiator for a 2004 Fabia Vrs and does anyone have confirmed recommendations for a replacement, without risk of failure, or the need to modify the fittings. Rad part number is 6Q0121253R Size is supposed to be 632 x 414mm. I am aware I need O rings N90765301

We have a completely standard Vrs, which the other half really likes, to the point she isn't interested in changing it after 19 years of ownership.

Thanks to this thread I have finally got round to fitting rear mudflaps. I didn't want to cut the bumper return as it would have meant trimming off 5mm or so, so decided to cut the flaps instead. I cut a letterbox slot into the flaps to fit over the return and then made a stainless clip to hold the flap in position at the outside of the curve. I'm pleased I did this as to gain access I had to remove the wheels which was a major challenge due to being corroded onto the hubs. I had to resort to a block of wood and a sledgehammer from the inside with the car well supported by a trolley jack. Judging by the dirt after a weeks motoring I would say the flaps are working and in addition they protect the valance from stone chips.

Yesterday I was told by the dealer that the Rs wouldn't be available for at least another 18 months.

Haven't got one but it's normal for a stiffer ARB or strut brace to cause quick wet weather break-away. It's the old adage. There ain't no such thing as a free lunch...everthing is a trade off.

I think you're wrong there. The only thing that makes a difference to the presures is the weight of the vehicle, wheel/tyre combo is irrelevant. In fact running a wider lower profile tyre will cause the edges to wear more due to the stiffer sidewalls so more pressure would bring the centre of tread back into better contact. Just run the pressures as stated for the standard car or a few pounds over if you want better fuel economy at the expense of slight ride quality reduction. Irrespective of what width tyres your car has fitted the contact patch is exactly the same for any given car as the weight hasn't altered so the tyre area can't.

Oil consuption on new engines is nearly always due to the cylinder honing allowing oil past the rings. Another reason is that the oil is too high a grade so is stopping the rings seating tight to the cylinder walls, which in turn causes oil glazing as the oil burns onto the cylinder wall. Once glazed an engine will be short of power and will consume oil. Try running the engine in on a lower spec oil and giving it some real beans at full load up a steep hill. This is full power, not high revs. This will create greater cylinder pressure which will press the rings out harder against the cylinder walls whilst creating more heat and should remove the glazing. Personally I would run any engine in using this technique right from the start. If this doesn't work change the oil for something crappy for a few hundred miles, that should fix it. The oil consumption should reduce as mileage increases but some 1.8T engines never slowed down.

Nice fix. The lumpy idle does sound like an inlet air leak. A quick test is to spray brake cleaner round any intake manifold joints at idle and see if either the revs smooth out or there is smoke from the exhaust as the brake cleaner gets drawn in.

I've read through this thread and am surprised that Skoda UK have tried using a restrictor plate to achieve the desired result, which is to reduce the amount of EGR so increase oxygen thus reducing the overfuelling problem. The method used in this post would be the correct method of reducing EGR. It's due to using the restrictor plate that the Check light is being brought on as the MAF monitors the volume of injested air at all times, including when the EGR valve is operational. The MAF is seeing too much fresh air intake and not enough exhaust gas when the EGR is opened so is reporting the valve to be outside tollerance. I'm sure a guarenteed fix for this would be to reduce the % of EGR via software. Another route would be to disconnect and blank the EGR pipe near the exhaust manifold and to fit an air filter to the section connected to the valve. Sure, there would be no recirculated gas so generation of more Nox but there would be less smoke and better performance. The ECU wouldn't throw a code as the correct amount of gas would be injested at all times, just fresh air as opposed to exhaust gas.