FlyingSpanner

If they started moving left right up down after erasing the code it suggests the self test is working, I would expect the motors to fail or not work in one axis with water ingress in the module. When it then does a sensor check it falls over if it doesn’t like the feedback loop. Don’t just erase codes, work with them, it is trying to point you in the right direction. Could be lots of things which is why you gather all the info before throwing parts at it. MakIng sure you can prove the fault will keep your balance sheet healthy.

What was the code you reset? Could just be a broken level sensor linkage, or the wire going to the sensor or the sensor itself. Should have good 5V feed and good earth going to the sensor. Do a volt drop or scope the wires with reference voltage from battery terminals. Check the output signal varies when moving the arm. Dead short sensors will ground the 5v so also check the live and earth with the plug disconnected if you don’t have voltage when back probing, if you now have 5v, the sensor is dead most likely. My car had a rusted ball joint on the link arm which had seized, the sensor was fine but TPS could only supply the linkage with a new sensor, I just swapped out the linkage and kept the new sensor for when the old one fails.

Not talking about charge, talking about fridge which is different, but you could use it to charge. I had to make sure I got the correct kit which did come with the fridge relay, not that I need it, just wanted the car wired up correctly.

I bought a Westfalia removable type £220 ish with full 13 pin electrics £170 ish from PF Jones with vehicle specific wiring kit inc ecu and additional loom for fridge which includes relay. This was new but you should be able to buy fixed bar cheaper and even cheaper if you find one on eBay https://www.pfjones.co.uk/skoda-superb-estate-dec-2009-2015-westfalia-detachable-towbar.html

13 pin plug terminals used to charge car via the plug. Charger +ve to pin 9 Charger -ve to pin 13 To get quick release connector and fused link with indicator I just cut the crock leads off a spare Cetek charger connector, that way no damage caused to the main charger output lead (just the cheap crock fly lead).

Hi, where are you in the country? Someone should be able to set it correctly for you with VCDS or ODIS. Mind you, take it back to the dealer and get them to sort it for free. Not difficult to do.

How about posting a few photos of the underside to see if something is hanging down lower than normal? Not trying to **** you off, just trying to help as best as possible. Do you have mudflaps fitted? They would deffo make a noise if it was too low. Or get an A6 Allroad, you can adjust front and back to preset ride heights, and even when the car is overloaded, it looks ok as it levels itself out. Mine was one of the last 55 plate 2.7 Bi Turbos, but ridiculous on fuel and getting old so it had to go. This photo shows similar load and looks dead level.

So soon? been on here since 2007?? I have removed all my content.

I’m off, just deleting my posts

Yes sorry bye...

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