Rob1971

Ahhhhh, a little bit too far! It is a nightmare when you have electrical issues such as this and you feel like you're throwing lots of time and money at it. What annoys me is that I fitted rear sensors to my daughters and partners car and each kit cost less than one sensor on my Yeti. Good luck with sorting it and please let us know the outcome. Regards

It doesn't give you a specific cause which isn't helpful and if you don't know which sensor is bad, you just throw money at it. The sensor you replaced could be good (unless more than one sensor is bad), in which case, I'd swap out another to see if that fixes it and if not, on to the next sensor and so on. Where is your location? If you're near, I'd scan your vehicle

Hi, here is an update from the parking sensor issue I've been expeiencing. When the fault first occured 3 weeks ago, I got a long beep when selecting reverse and a message on the infotainment saying that park pilot was unavailable. I did the usual things of rebooting the infotainment, removing the fuse for the infotainment, disconnecting the battery for 10 mins, spraying the sensors with WD40 etc etc. As none of these things worked, I spoke to a local VW/Audi specialist and although he is cheaper than a main stealer, I couldn't justify the cost of a garage. As previously mentioned, I took the plunge and got the full system scanner and found the fault. It is also very important to note that the correct sensor is purchased as I found out (which delayed the time taken to solve the issue). I fitted the sensor this morning and it didn't fix the problem and gave another fault code. I scratched my head for a couple of minutes and decided to unplug the sensor and turn it around 180 degrees and that sorted the the issue. As you have probably gathered by now, some sensors, if not all, can be connected the wrong way round! I have attached 2 photos, one of the original fault code and one of the second fault code when the plug was fitted incorrectly. The system is now back up and running at a financial cost of £105 for the scanner and £12 for a sensor. The mechanic said I could easily be looking at £200 (depending on the fault) which is why I bought the scanner and I now have that for any future issues which I have no doubt that there will be more. The scanner will also register new batteries (if needed), carry out a forced DPF regen and so much more. I hope this helps 🤞

I couldn't be bothered / don't have time to root out the problem with my reversing sensors so I ordered a new full system scanner and it told me that the centre right sensor was faulty. I ordered one, it was wrong but now hopefully have the correct one. They're easy to get to on a Yeti and once I've fitted it, I'll update as to how accurate the scanner is. My local VW Audi specialist wanted the car for half a day and £36 for the system scan. The scanner I got was £105 , lifetime updates and I'm sure I'll use it enough to more than pay for itself many times over 🤞🏻

As far as I am aware, it's not a problem. G13 superceded G12 and is better and won't do any harm. I put G13 in with G12 on my motor rather than changing it all.

Blue smoke on start up is one of the tell tale signs of a duff CTS. That's what it said in my skoda manual when I had it installed on my pc!!

Check you haven't got a loose wire/connection to the oil pressure switch. I had a loose wire on an old car and every time it earthed, the oil light came on! A faulty pressure switch too perhaps? Just a few things worth looking at as i've often looked past the most simple things which have proved the problem!!!

I don't think a car can be failed now for worn bushes hence the advisory. I replaced my wish bones purely because of age and wear and tear after they had completed approx 140K.

I cleaned the variable blade valve on my turbo and hey presto, like a new motor. Chuck some diesel treatment in every couple of fill ups and give it a good blast every now and then. Turbos generally work or don't work! The 110hp are prone to VBV sticking and giving the feeling that the turbo ain't working. Look up the VBV on you tube and they are a simple but effective bit of kit giving you turbo power assist right across the rev range.

Rear wiper motor/gearbox so easy to repair. Screen wash water seeps in to the gearbox and creates the problem. Remove the unit (very easy) and then undo the few screws holding the cover over the mechanism/gearbox. Be careful not to let components come out unless you are a competent diy mechanic. Clean it out and replenish with fresh grease and box it all back up and put it back on the motor. Simples

Hi, Not sure about your window problem as I have not had to carry out work on mine. As for your heating, do you have a digital display / control panel with various buttons and 'climatronic' printed somewhere on it? If so, you have air con. Auto is air con and eco is normal heating / cooling i.e. air con off.

Hi all, I am after some advice as to wether or not it is possible to replace the brake pipe which goes from the ABS pump to the o/s/r without having to remove the fuel tank as the original brake pipe is routed above the fuel tank. Is it possible to complete the job by just lowering the fuel tank rather than removing it? Will the removal of the heat deflector plate alone make the job easier and or do'able without disturbing the fuel tank? Any advice and or tips on replacing the pipe and removing / lowering the fuel tank will be very much appreciated.

You may find that if your engine coolant temp sensor is faulty, the air con won't work. It is a safety system to prevent the engine overheating as the condensor is hot when the compressed gas enters. Because it is next to the coolant radiator, the heat may transfer to the radiator etc. Your temperature gauge may still read correct as mine did. Maybe it's worth checking that before you spend lots of money! Good luck.

Many moons ago, my ac stopped working because it had lost the refrigerant. I took my car to an auto ac specialist and the first thing he did was a pressure check. Because the pressure was low ( virtually none existent) it was highly likely that there was a leak somewhere. He then re filled the system with refrigerant and a dye because of the high possibility of a leak. I should say at this point that the car wasn't very old and a complete loss of refrigerant was unusual. The ac then worked brilliant for a couple of days and then stopped again. It was clear to see without a UV light where the leak was because it was a bad leak. Needless to say, The guy double checked it with a UV light and confirmed where the leak was. What I am getting at here is did ATS use a dye when you first had your system topped up? It's pointless using a UV light if no dye was put in when it was topped up. The guy I used also said that if the refrigerant leaked, I wouldn't have to pay for a top up if there was a leak and he carried out the repair work. The filter drier receiver was damaged and that in itself is a straight forward job (as I have done it myself since after a compressor failure and I had to replace both). The bill ended up being a bit more than I bargained for because my car had been involved in a front end shunt within it's first 18 months of it's life. All in all, the bill was reasonable (less than £200) and the guy straightened out all the bent steelwork too. It may be worth speaking to an auto ac specialist and get a price etc first. Good luck.

I have the same problem but it is intermittent and doing my head in! I've even changed all vac pipes in case it was causing a pulsating vacuum on the servo.

I didn't have any fault codes when my turbo vbv was stuck. Well worth checking vac hoses first as they cause so many different problems.

Use a syringe to get old fluid out first. As previously stated, don't let any air get into abs pump as you will have problems. Old fashioned bleed method works good but only press the brake pedal half way down if you use that method. I place a suitably sized piece of wood under the pedal and have never had any issues.

Did you press the brake pedal to the floor after changing the pads? If so, the pedal should resume normal position in a week or two. I've had the same and feared the worst but it came back to normal.

Just a thought, you may be getting 12V, but that doesn't always mean you are getting enough juice (Amps) which may be as mentioned earlier - duff cables. I once tested my motorcycle battery which was showing 12V but it was in fact almost dead! I read these posts with interest as I have one door CL playing up - almost always locks when using key fob and it rarely locks when using the locking switch on the door panel! Oh the joys.

I just put up with it!!!!

I replaced the original factory fitted battery (Varta) on my 1.9TDi last year after eleven and a half years as it was getting tired! I usually expect three to five years out of a battery depending on quality. I replaced the original with a high power AC Delco. As for charging faults, I suspect a battery wouldn't last a month without needing a proper charge if there was a problem with charging i.e. alternator. As for battery quality, you could buy two identical batteries and expose them to the same use and they would probably expire at different times. Unfortunately, it can be luck (or lack of it) when it comes to battery life but it is well worth spending a little extra and getting a quality battery with a minimum three year warranty.

Re the above, I didn't get any fault codes when my variable blade valve vanes became stuck. I found the power characteristics of the engine were different when it was cold and hot!! With the help of mbames posts, I removed the turbo and cleaned it! May I suggest a quick and easy check of applying a vacuum to the hose which goes to the valve actuator. If you see the actuator/valve rod move (operating the valve) it is not a mechanical problem. I feel it may be though. I have had my car since almost new (11 years now) and I have experienced sticking blade valves intermittently. I find using a fuel additive helps tremendously due to the modern fuels having very low sulphur which is a dry lubricant. Hope this helps!

I have just replaced the original battery on my 51 1.9TDi. The battery was till working but i could tell it was getting tired and didn't want to push my luck any more. I still can't believe how long it lasted!!!!

Hi. I got a mobile tow bar fitter to do mine when I had a few quid. He took a live from the battery with a heavy fuse close to the terminal. This wire then ran under the car to the boot and then to an electronic box. Out of the other side of the box came all the wires for the socket! I suppose that is the cheating way to do it but I have not had any problems with it during the last 8 years.