gremlin

Thanks trundlenut and jimbof.. I havent touched the plenum bungs. (no water ingress yet) But a "jammed open" extract vent low down on the nearside just above the exhaust tail pipe would explain a lot. The old bus is 7 years old and has done 110k, so maybe I can forgive it.

How and where does the Supurb 1 extract the ventilation air from inside the car? Is there an extract vent somewhere in the boot, I expect that it is hidden behind the boot trim which is why I would like any clue as to which bit of trip to remove. Reason I ask is that I have checked all the door and boot seals and the exhaust pipe, but when the car is standing and idling I am sure exhaust gas is getting back into the car. YES I know it is dangerous which is why i am going to get it checked. One theory is that the ventilation extract might have a flappy back draft shutter which has stuck open or perished.

Thanks Alan. So much choice on line. I think the "H" part of the HW5W must just refer to a brighter or whiter version of the H5W i.e a "501" in today's code, as Mr Rooney has explained.

A garage recently replaced a sidelight bulb for me, but it is very dim. More like a 1 watt bulb, not a 5 w ! The handbook says I need a HW5W bulb for Xenon headlight cluster (not a W5W) and I am currently running around looking for this type. I will have to drive 20 miles round trip to my nearest Skoda Dealer. The nearby VW dealer didn't recognize the part code and Halfords tried to be helpful but only stock one generic type of 5W quartz type bulb. (Car is a 2007 2.0TD) Or it might just be dirty contacts and I just need to open it up and clean the contacts. Second question is that I don't see how to get the bulb holder out. There appears to be a plastic hex socket which has a cross head screw at the bottom of the hole. I will try the pulling the whole thing out, or pull and twist a bayonet socket -as the advice above,- but it seams to be very firmly stuck . I know the garage opened it up a couple of weeks ago so it must be possible. Yes, I could take it back to the garage. (Probably will need booking in !) but it's the shame of me needing a garage to change a sidelight bulb. Amazing that the handbook says that I need to take it to a "specialist garage"

Sorry, cant help with your exact qustion, but I had the overboost problem on my B5.5 Passat 1.9TD some years ago. My point is that it was "the sensor" which cost a tenner to replace, and was not casued by the turbo. The VAG dealer replaced the turbo twice under warrenty without finding the problem. On that car the limphome mode could be overridden by switching off and restarting, which would give anything from another 10mins full power, to 3 hours full power, i.e. enough to complete the journey.

thanks tomsupurb. Yes it is the 2.0tdi. I think only this model has the bodged DPI needing the cleaning fluid. I was aware of the need to top up the fluid at 80,000 miles but thought I had a bit more time yet. I saw the earlier post, and other posts in the forum on the DPF and using adblue....or not.

I've just had the dpf light come on followed by engine workshop light and it switched into limp home mode. It took 2 minutes from first warning to limp home mode. Thanks for giving plenty of warning, Skoda. I assume from the manual that the DPF is now blocked because of the limp home mode, and I am looking at £1000 for a new DPF. Problem is that I am 300 miles from home (Newcastle) and the local dealers wont be working over the next few days, so the chance of arranging a quick squirt of DPF fluid top up is unlikely. Just in case the resevevoir is empty after 68,000 miles and I could still clear the DPF with a good 5 hour thrash home at 70mph ? So guys, should I book a 300 mile AA tow home in the hope of saving the DPF, or do I just limp home at 50 mph accepting that I will need to find £1000 anyway? My local Skoda dealer is unlikey to want to do anything more technical than replace the parts and I havent yet found an independent workshop in the Reading/Basingstoke area. (I hate this car !!!!!)

Sorry to bump this thread, but I have only just caught up. When my engine was changed by a Skoda dealer I wanted to tell DVLA of the new engine number for the registration docs. To cut a long story short, I eventually found out from several independent sources after I made a huge fuss that VAG dont stamp engine numbers into the block. The peel off paper sticker is all there is! My new engine number is exactly the same as the old one!!!!! What this means is that there is absolutly no quality control system in place. (audit trail if you want to be precise) There is no way of tracing the history of the new engine, when it was made, what series it is, has the oil pump drive been modified? Is is it a reject engine that has been lying around in the back of a Skoda warehouse for 5 years? ( Im not accusing the dealer, just commenting on the VAG attitude which means no one knows ) When I was a lad (ahem) we were always told that when buying a car you had to check the chassis number and the engine number. If either were missing, defaced or wrong it was a dodgy car. Mind you, No engine number could work in my favour becasue it will be that bit easier to clone my Supurb into a Mondao, or something more saleable.

Thanks Rotodiesel. Good tip. They havn't changed the air filter so I will do that. But they have oiled all the locks and checked the tyre pressures. But then what do you expect for only £150/hour. I am a member of the unfortunately not so exclusive club of being on my second engine. First oil pump failed at 32,000 at 2 years old.(phew) Which is partly why I am so paranoid about keeping an eye on the state of the new one. Which I have just realised has almost done 30,000 miles too

I use Pirelli 6000 and reckon to get 25,000 on the front - down to 3mm tread and 50,000 on the back - down to 1.6mm. Although I think my latest set of perhaps six sets of P6000s I have run through arnt quite as hard wearing as previous sets. Trouble is you have to shell out £400 on a new brand of tyres and then run them for a year just to see if they are any better. I probably will have to give up on "premium" tyres and look for good mid-range tyres, so this thread is usefull.

Took my 2.0 diesel in for a variable service at a skoda dealer mostly because I assumed that they would routinely use the VAG dignostics to check engine performance such as "timing". The mpg has been dropping back recently even after allowing for winter running with headlights and air temperature. (ie when the weather is cold the mpg drops) They were somewhat nonplussed that anyone would check the engine performance at a service. It's not even on the service task schedule. Am I still living in the 1970's when the first thing I would fish out of my toolbox was my trusty old strobe lamp! Maybe engine management is all done nowadays by the chip, and it is just ignored, unless something horrible happens. At £1.35 / litre I dont want it rechipped for performance, I want it rechipped for 75mpg !

In a way, I'm glad it's not just me. Looks like I will be shopping around for an extended warrenty in January !

Very true bryanp. Also, if the oil level is too high it can seep over into the clutch in some cars. I am obsessive about oil management in my cars to get maximum engine life so it is a bit ironic that this happened. I am an engineer by training and these things do happen with even the best machinery, so I am relaxed about it. I am slightly more irritated by the apparent failure of the engine instrumentation to detect any problem. I was just my engineer's ear (he says modestly) that picked up the subtle change in engine noise. Perhaps I should have been a little bit clearer in my explanation I never let the oil level go over the top mark and if if falls more than 2mm I would top up in 1/10 litre steps at a time. Or, in practice, a "small splash" from the litre bottle I always carry. Levels are checked on a flat surface. Oil use was approx 0.2 litre over 15,000 miles using 507.00 spec. I cant honestly claim to check the oil weekly, but certainly fortnightly and if there is routinely zero oil use that seems reasonable. My check is more than just levels, but also to glance at the rate of colour change and for any signs of water in it. You might be lucky and just spot the first signs of a failing gasket, or as I spotted once on another car, a blocked vent which was causing condensation to drip into the sump. I had a Passat 1.9 TDI that had no detectable oil use whatsoever for the first 130,000 miles of my ownership.(Never needed the slightest top up between services) It then suddenly started burning oil at a rate of 0.25 litres per 10,000 miles, which was a hint to me to get rid of it. It wasnt so much the rate of use, but the sudden change. Piston ring(s) starting to give up, maybe?

Hi all, Sorry I have posted before, but I havent have any problems to report since I have been driving my Supurb during the last 18 months, (apart from the boring "dried-out sealed for life battery" failure. Ha ! ) Anyway, I've got a new and orginal fault to report to you all, and I suppose it is the Daddy of them all. A few weeks back I heard a subtle chattering or clattering noise from the engine which dissappeard above 1500 rpm. Obvioiusly a bearing I thought. Having read these forums I immediately thought of the water pump. (but water temp showed Normal) The RAC man thought of the flywheel after taking most of the drive belts off and checking everything else. (Fantastic effort, and a really helpfull guy) Turns out it was the oil pump (or its drive) and the whole engine was shot! There was absolutely no oil pressure failure warning light so I dont know when the oil failure happened. I have always maintained the oil level absolutly at the top mark within a millimetre. Car cruses 25 miles each way each day on empty A roads which I always think is the perfect type of life for a car. No towing, racing or rallying etc etc. Now the punch line:- ..... It's a 2 1/2 year old car, 32000 miles, 2.0 TDI engine. :eek: Ashmore Green Skoda-Saab in Newbury did a very good job of repairing the car under warrenty (phew) and keeping me mobile, only slighly faulted by not reminding me to update the Registration Document, and not appearing to keep any record of the new engine number so I'll have to go back so that they can crawl under the car with a torch rather than me. Anyone know where can I get a "proper" old fashioned mechanical oil temperature and pressure gauge fitted (like on a light aircraft or a racing car) so I can properly monitor the engine operating condition in the traditional way using oil T&Ps?

Having now had my Supurb for 3 whole days now, I thought I would join in this forum. I found you all by looking for tyre pressure data. The values on the filler cap lid looked a little low for such a large car. I had a 130hp TDI Passat for 6 years and wanted to replace it but was so dissapointed by the build quality on the new VW. By chance I wandered into a Skoda dealer and saw the Supurb, and realised that it had the build quality that I remembered from my old VW. Also, most of the bits are very, very familar, so I have really felt at home form the start. So far, very pleased.