allias

Need proper alignment done. Invest time and money and visit ABC at Leeds. Read review if unsure.

If you in Leeds then you should visit ABC CAR Service. Many briskodians can confirm their work. Search for reviews here on forum as well...

I bet they did bushed with removed console. Since that they changed caster and its un-even and that what cause your problem. Do you have a printout from previous alignment? If you do - post it. I will read thru it. Otherwise I would assume they done tracking only, so you wasted money insead having it done correctly.

Are your tyres directional? If not then swap them side to side. If pulls other way then you know its tyre related. If it corrects it then same conclusion but sometimes that is simple solution. If those tyres are directional I would only advice to swap left to right for test and then swap back. At least you will know what cause that problem. After dealership done work - did you align it again? Or was it just a case of driving after you left their workshop? Can you provide print out of your alignment? Can you post it here?

Add one more thing. Caster at front wheels needs to be even on both sides.

Myths: 1. VAG car pulls and its OK to do so. 2. Take steering wheel off to adjust if off centre. Could I please everyone who thinks that way to stop spreading wrong information. Each of this statements is VERY untrue. If you dont beleave than please ask anyone who had done alignment/geometry adjustment by me at our place at Leeds. Ref myth 1. I would like to explain this one more time. VAG cars do have a lot of room on adjustment on subframe and each time you loosen bolts you change caster. Caster spread is what create pull. Even 0.25 deg difference can create pull. Most places adjusting toe-only and pull that comes out after it, is result of tyre pull. Sometimes a simple tyre rotation side to side fix problem. Ref mytf 2. New vehiles comes with steering angle sensor which is very sensetive and by messing with it, you risking problems with stability systems. Removal and adjustment of steering wheel is needed ONLY and ONLY if have disconnected steering rack from column. Otherwise all adjustment shoud be done on steering rods - PERIOD! If so called specialist or stealer is looking to fix problem by removing steering wheel, then please ask for your keys back, as one last thing you need is a monkey messing with your steering system. If you are looking to sort problem at specialist garage - look for one that will look at your case like another challange not - another job, because they will fail. You already spent money with one place so I would expect 100% satisfaction promise. Simple. And reason why you might need to re-adjust after you have done a job because each car is different and best proove for that is that factory build so many cars by same robots/precedures and so many drives fine and other not. Afterall specialist is just a man and might make a mistake - re-adjustment is to make sure results suit customers expectation.

I think they need to do a job one more time. This is typical for wheels being of balance.

If its suspension noise then it must be something missed but since instaled 30mm spacers I could bet its down to wind and road noise. Each car create wind tunnel and any discurbance in it will create noise. Same thing happen when you have roof rack installed or if you stick your hand out of window. Same thing with wheels and tyres. Most of cars have wheels slighly hidden in wheel arches. That way wind just smoothly touch against your wheel. If you stick your wheel our 30mm that create different route for wind that will run thru rim and thread of tyre and create resistance. Each resistance - more noise... Tyre rubber makes noise but mostly the thread is responsible for it, because of wind running thru them. Simples...

Znajdz kogos kto ma sprzet do zbieznosci/geometri i niech to zrobi dobrze. Pan Zbyszek z mlotkiem i kilofem nic nie zdziala. Chcesz to zrobic dobrze - to naprawde potrzeba fachowca a nie nitki i temu podobne. Pozdrawiam z Leeds.

In this case I wish I never get to drive cars that come out from their hunter rig. I feel bad for their customers. What shows in your print-out is just lack or intrest to get it where REALLY should be but doing it - IT WILL BE FINE. Sorry - that is just my 2 pence.

Yes I was. It might be me that edge of rim is visiable or edge tyre protector sticks out. Either way to me (based on that picture) that tyre might be 10-20 mm to narrow tyre pressure or damage to tyre caused to look like that. Its hard to tell without seeing life. On other hand I got accross customer with damaged tyres caused by incorrect pressure as they goes what on door. People need to get to their had - car modiified - spec goes out of window. That rules apply in case you have lowered vehicle - alignment, bigger or wider rims/tyres - tyre pressure, Also alignment spec from Skoda might be good for one driver but with moddifications, I cant understand how come alignment places are setting suspension to factory spec - they got to be out of their mind. It work the same way as when you change turbo to different spec - do you leave same tune-up? No as it will be pumping different amount of air in different conditions. Same about alignment and suspension. If you customize your suspension - You need to customize your settings. Maybe 5-10% cars will accept "factory spec". Goingback to those tyre faults... it all depend on condition of suspension, was it modified, was it hit? Or something different...Tyre manufacturer means nothing in this case.

Thats the problem... "within spec" - how about understanding what is what and how does it effect your driveability. Within spec is not enough.

Caster and camber on front wheels are any adjustable in way by finding "happy middle" for both sides. That is all whats needed for good technician to make it right for vehicle with alignment issue. Its only a case of someone with equipment and will to do a job.

That caster is fine dispite red colour. As long its even - nothing to worry. Colour depend on settings choosen at the begining and might differ from car to car and trim to trim. I think rear toe could be set a bit better. To much toe on left and not enough on right. Thats way thrust angle is 0,07 instead 0. Desent but not perfect job.

Those problems are not down to tyres types or alignment but very simple mistakes: 1. Wrong width of tyre to rim. On both pictures is noticeable that rim sticks out further then edge or thread. 2. Wrong tyre pressure. First pic shows more wear on edge and then ripped part is result of damage/impact and them additional wear to open "wound".

Looks like to much negetive camber. Needs setting it properly on good 4wheel alignment rig. 70-100quid.

Buhaha... good one. First of all Skoda dealers never visited ABC (unless incognito) and havent seen the equipment. Second - setup is 1 year old so it comes with newest vehicles setups. It also require to understand alignment facts and figures not just DO JOB to spec. While back we wanted to discuss option of co-operation with Skoda - we never had an answer from Skoda local dealer. Even after few emails and phone call attempts. Nothing. On other hand... despite so many Skoda with alignment problems I dont see this as a problem. How come other cars with same suspension setup dont have those problems? Its more then just one factor and you have to look at those cars individualy. On other hand - Im glad we can be at help with solutions for those problems

Topic was covered few times. If you dont have long drive to Leeds I would suggest to visit us ABC Car Service. Read reviews of few members here on forum. Worth a check of your suspension. I bet you have alignment issue - maybe something else as well.

That will create inside tyre wear. I would suggest in range between -1.1 to -1.5 deg in neg camber depend on how aggresive driver you are. Toe set between +0.3 to +0.6 on each side accordinly. That will create good grip in corners and a little bit positive toe will compansate for negative camber so your tyres will last longer.

It does look typical for Fabis after lowering sustension fitted. But I can see few mistakes. First of all they havent check caster on front (despite no adjustment) but its good to know if there is anything wrong with subframe. Second problem and I think it is a problem that rear thrust angle. -0.10 is very high and will create big sawtoothin on left rear tyre and excesive inside wear on right right. To me it looks like it was damaged on left side or something made impact on left rear hub. Worth getting second opinion on that. Front toe set alright. Overall to me it seems as they done a job worth £25-30 on equipment worth doing better job.

We had 2x R32 with "1 finger" gap on 18" wheels and those drove on with no problem. With our ramp extensions we were able to sort all lowered vehicles so far.

Glad to hear about your positive expierience.

Can someone expalin to me why dont alignment shops check suspension condition first before alignment????!"£$"!"£" WTF!?!?!? They rip money off for adjustment - then tell you need to change parts and then charge you for second alignment. Those guys are waste of time and money.

Its not adjustable on Fabia's neither on Octavia's so its only to check for bents. ...but by shifting subframe you can make slight adjustment.

Glad to hear, you can feel difference. Just curious - any increce in MPG as well?