Darren260403

Thanks people... At least i know what needs to be done now! Mansfield is a bit of a treck from where i live but will see if i can do it all the same! 23rd Feb as in next tue yes?

Thanks for your advice people... Am still not sure what i should do? The latest maps are what's most important to me but i'd be lying if i said i wasn't at all bothered about any of the other improvements a firmware update would give the unit? Last question i promise.. Is there any detailed threads on exactly how to create a firmware upgrade cd/dvd or even better, would any members be interested in doing the update for me? I would of course willingly pay for their time & help? Would much rather someone did it that knew what they were doing rather than myself who knows sweet FA about it? lol... Thanks again...... :yes:

Thanks for replying... So the latest version 6.1 only updates the maps, not the operating system at all... Do you or anyone else know if firmware cd's are available to buy? Prob seems like a stupid question to ask but i'm not particularly computer literate & would not trust my own competence to create/download & install a cd of my own? Would i be right in assuming that downloading version 6.1 navigation dvd wouldn't have any detrimental impacts on the current firmware installed? Apologies again for my sad lack of knowledge in this area & thanks to all who advise!!!!!

Hi people, not been on here for a while but need some advice please.... I'm looking to upgrade my V3 maps on my Columbus unit with the latest V6 maps etc... My question is, if i purchase an official V6 map dvd (Skoda) will it also update my firmware as well? I bought the unit from VRStu & have had no problems with it at all? Am just looking for more up to date maps really but it would be cool to see what other improvements have been made to the navigating experience? I bought the bluetooth kit from Stu as well & it works perfectly with the unit as is... Just wanna make sure i'm not gonna regret updating it really? Any help, thoughts, suggestions would be greatly appreciated, Regards.... :yes:

Will hook out the details buddy & get back to you on it... I know you can get a fairly decent r/o system for a couple of hundred quid, quite a bit of an initial outlay but the resin lasts ages & when you think about all the other things it can be used for i think it is a good investment....

Also ideal for iron water, drinking water, car batteries etc etc & if you make a cup of tea/coffee with it the taste is undeniably better! IMO i will add...

If you can afford it i can't recommend an R/O kit (reverse osmosis) water filtration unit highly enough... Bought mine a few months ago & there's just no comparison compared to the normal hard, chalky, calcium etc etc stuff found in most tap water? Drops the PH levels too & even AG shampoo conditioner foams up well when using it! Black Range Rover on a hot day never used to be my idea of fun but now i dont even have to dry it after washing because all the impurities in the water have been removed allowing for a spot free finish...

I have got a Mytee hot water extraction carpet & upholstery cleaning machine that cost £1700 which i use most of the time, i have also got a Numatic wet/dry machine as well as Henry's etc... Comment was made because a lot of people have a Henry vacuum cleaner so it's a lot cheaper than going out & buying something you may only use now & then, than use something a lot of people have already got? Been valeting/detailing for over 5 yrs now & the Henry's work really well not just for vacuuming but upholstery too!!!!

If you haven't got a wet /dry cleaner a Henry unit makes an excellent alternative! As long as you remove the paper filter (of course) & don't absolutely drench the seats in fabric cleaner it is more than capable of sucking up all the dirt & water in a 5 seater car! I use Autoglym super interior cleaner & have had no problems with it leaving any marks or sticky residue that some cleaners leave, it also deodorizes the fabric too!

Unless i am blind i can't see on any of the posts what colour your car is? If you aren't too fussed about the ultimate wet look finish you will find that a decent wax (like collinite or high def wax) will be much more durable! General rule of thumb is "The wetter the look, the less durable it will be" Wet look glazes look wet because they usually are wet, the downside is that they usually don't last as long? I don't know if Baker has found this at all but i think you can put too much wax on a car? There really seems to be no point in re-applying wax too often or spreading it on like butter as it (IMHO) will be a complete waste of time & product? A thin layer applied correctly will look better too, apart from being easier to buff off, you will notice less of a smeary reflection which is caused by too much product? Am very happy with the durability & shine of my vRS & now i've got it protected to a standard i am happy with i can pretty much do a touchless wash on it all of the time! Above is just my opinion...... Regards....

It's not the silicone blades that do the damage? It's the grit that does! The whole idea of the blade was just to get the initial sheet of water off the car, using the minimum amount of pressure to take the water off! Great on windscreens, windows etc but unless the car has been thoroughly washed, rinsed etc there is always the danger that some grit will remain on the car? Another thing worth noting is that a lot of the local "wash for a fiver" centres dont rinse the blade out after every swipe? I think if the wash process has been done correctly & the blade rinsed after every stroke AND mimimal pressure is used on the paintwork itself, it can definately speed up the drying process & can help to prevent water marks etc! The idea is to get rid of most of the water, not all of it? If the blade screetches as you run it along the paintwork you are either pressing too hard or that panel is already sufficiently dry to MF or chamois! Personally..... I wouldnt use one as the damage that can be caused doesn't really merit the possible time saved to dry the car properly anyway? Also, there seems to be a huge difference in the flexibility & quality in blades?? Question you gotta ask yourself is... Is it worth the risk??? Personally i think not!

Even if i wasn't in the valeting/detailing business there is absolutely no way i would take my car to any of them????? If i had an old banger then maybe i'd consider it, if the car was worthless & meant nothing to me i mean? I saw an Aston Martin queing up for a car wash the other day.... £90+K car???? Felt it my duty to stop & plead with the owner not to do it? Fortunately he saw sense & has now booked me in for an initial assesment followed by remedial work to rectify the damage that was already evident! He honestly thought he was doing the right thing by getting it washed in the local petrol station? :confused:

Cheers people, am gonna give one of the scuffed wheels to a guy i know who has said that for £50 per wheel he can get the alloy to a standard nobody would ever know damage had been done? Am happy to risk £50 to see what the end result would be, and if it looks as good as he says he can get it & the colour match is pretty close to an original i will then set about getting the others done! Thanks again everyone....

Very sneaky but i like it!!!!! Am wondering just how much difference we could be talking? If it's a case of having to put an original alloy right next to a refurbed one to be able to see a slight difference, i'd definately go for it!