mikel543

@MarkyG82 the OP has the Glow Plug light and the DPF light on. This means that the DPF is too full for a regeneration to take place, DPF light on its own means you need to drive it under load until it goes out (a gear less than you normally drive at should do it - see the manual), if the Glow Plug light is on as well then only the diagnostic tool can be used to regenerate it. If you are lucky a dealer can regenerate it using their diagnostic tool, if you are unlucky they will want to replace the entire DPF .

Thanks for the advice, the misfire followed the coil pack, so next question is where is best to get good quality coil packs on line? Are the red R8 ones any good or am I better of with OEM ones? Also, am I right that I should replace all 4 and not just the failed one as they're all likely to go soon?

I have an 09 Facelift petrol VRs Was driving home from work today and the car misfired all the way home particularly around 2000rpm and under load, eventually the CEL started flashing then the EPC light came on. The OBD only logged two faults even though it misfired all the way home, about 8 miles. Diagnostic from VCDS is: Address 01: Engine (CCZ) Labels: 06J-907-115-CCZ.clb Part No SW: 1Z0 907 115 AF HW: 1Z0 907 115 F Component: 2.0l R4/4V TFSI 0010 Revision: AAH11--- Serial number: Coding: 0203000C18070160 Shop #: WSC 73430 790 00999 VCID: 79FC6A87308BBE8AE4-802C 2 Faults Found: 000770 - Cylinder 2 P0302 - 000 - Misfire Detected Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 01100000 Fault Priority: 0 Fault Frequency: 1 Reset counter: 255 Mileage: 88091 km Time Indication: 0 Date: 2010.12.23 Time: 17:17:25 Freeze Frame: RPM: 2021 /min Load: 90.9 % Speed: 72.0 km/h Temperature: 96.0°C Temperature: 24.0°C Absolute Pres.: 1010.0 mbar Voltage: 14.097 V 004874 - Cylinder Disabling P130A - 000 - - Intermittent Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00100000 Fault Priority: 0 Fault Frequency: 1 Reset counter: 255 Mileage: 88096 km Time Indication: 0 Date: 2010.12.23 Time: 17:22:48 Freeze Frame: RPM: 4083 /min Load: 87.8 % Speed: 58.0 km/h Temperature: 93.0°C Temperature: 28.0°C Absolute Pres.: 1000.0 mbar Voltage: 13.970 V Readiness: 0000 0000 Would i be right in thinking coil packs? Thanks

Update: Car still at garage, waiting for seals to come in, so I'd still welcome your input.

Sorry for the long post, but please read as I need some advice. My 2009 VRS Facelift model with 40k miles on the clock went int for its service last week. At lunch time I got a call from the service centre to say that there was an oil leak and that it was coming from the end of the cam shaft. Now I have had to put a bit more oil into it between services (about 1L), but I get it serviced annually due to low mileage. I just put the extra oil usage down to change in use as I changed job at the beginning of the year and my daily commute is now 8 miles each way rather than 2.5 each way. Besides there was no oil underneath the car where it was parked overnight or smoke out the exhaust, so I didn't think much of it. The service centre (yes its a franchised Skoda one) is going to replace the oil seals and I should get it back later today. Having being off here a couple of years and just come back on and read the threads about 2.0TSI engine failures, I'm now worried that there is something else going on that caused the oil seals to fail and that the engine will ultimately fail, it is a CCZ engine code. To my mind these seals shouldn't fail at 40k, I've already asked to speak to the workshop foreman when I pick the car up. The question for here is what specifically should I be asking about? Obviously, why did it happen on a car thats only done 40k, but are then any specific service bulletins or campaigns I should ask about? The car has been serviced annually at this particular centre from 1 year old and they have never mentioned anything about service campaigns or technical service bulletins in the past, I feel like they may need a little nudge. The rear brake calliper has also seized, even though the car is driven every day, so I'm looking at a bill of around a grand to get all this sorted out just before Christmas.. :'( The main thing for me is that nothing else preventable goes wrong on the car and if there is an underlying cause it gets picked up before something more expensive happens.

I'm at the South West of Cumbria and I've got a full version of VCDS. If you're in the Furness area I'm happy to help out.

Sounds like a bit of a weird question but here goes. My mates brother is a bit of a boy racer and he's transplanted an engine out of a MKIII golf gti into his MKII golf. Problem is that its running really rough. I've offered to have a look at it, but I can't connect my VCDS kit to it because there is no diagnostics port. Is there anything in the engine bay I can plug into to talk to the ECU using VCDS. I have a legit HEX-CAN Ross Tech lead BTW. Will I need any adaptors to connect the VCDS lead up to it? Cheers Mike

I think Vauxhall's use a different protocol that isn't supported by the VAG COM lead.

Put the screen brightness on manual and reducing it down as much as possible. Also lower the timeout on the screen so it switches off earlier after inactivity. Both of these can get you some extra battery life. Adjusting the screen brightness manually Press HOME > MENU, and then tap Settings > Sound & display. Scroll down the screen, and then tap Brightness. Clear the Automatic brightness check box. Drag the brightness slider to the left to decrease or to the right to increase the screen brightness. Tap OK. Adjusting the time before the screen turns off After a period of inactivity, the phone screen turns off to conserve battery power. You can set the idle time before the screen turns off. Press HOME > MENU, then tap Settings > Sound & display. Scroll down the screen, and then tap Screen timeout. Tap the time before the screen turns off. To quickly turn off the screen, press the POWER button.

Sounds like you don't have auto lights fitted. For C/H / L/H to work fully you need auto lights and an auto dimming mirror with rain / light sensor built in. With this setup leaving home lights won't work, but coming home lights can be used in manual mode if coded properly. To use Coming Home lights you need to leave the light switch in the headlights on position. When you turn the ignition off the headlights will go off. Pull the indicator stalk towards you once, as if you're flashing your headlights at someone. The headlights will flash and then go out again. Remove the key from the ignition and open the drivers door, the headlights will then come on and operate as coming home lights and switch themselves off after the preset time.

Do you have a light switch with the tunnel lights / auto position or one with just Headlights & Sidelights?

This is nothing to worry about. Its caused by having a 3.5mm jack lead plugged into the jack socket in the arm rest but nothing on the other end of the lead.

I think AFS is to do with the the motorised headlight aiming on Xenon equipped cars. Do you have Xenon lights per chance?

If your e-mail address is related to your isp e.g. @btinternet.co.uk, @tiscali.co.uk etc.. then the short answer is no. If you have an isp indepenent address e.g. @gmail.com, @hotmail.com account then you can continue to access it from your new ISP. I think Orange allow you to retain Webmail access if you have an orange mobile phone, but you won't be able to send from Outlook or Outlook Express as you need to be on the ISPs network to use their outgoing mail server, the reason they do this is to prevent non customers from using their servers for spamming.

Steer clear of the fleabay cable, it won't have the dongle built in to make it work with the latest official VCDS release you need to recode your car. If it doensn't come with software, you're back to VCDS Lite which won't do what you want. Save your money and keep saving up for the proper cable.

VCDS Lite doesn't work on the MKII Octavia, you need full VCDS. You need VCDS with an official Ross-Tech HEX+CAN or Micro CAN Cable. The Hex+CAN Cable costs about £220+VAT, the Micro Can is slightly cheaper but doesn't work on some of the older cars but will be fine on your MKII. Gendan and ilexa sell genuine Ross Tech cables in the UK. The cheaper option is to get someone on here who lives near you with full VCDS to turn them on for you. There are a quite a few of us on here who will do it for beer tokens :-) Check out the VCDS user list thread at the top of the diagnositcs forum. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/74720-list-of-vag-com-diagnostic-system-vcds-owners/

Chances are the Fleabay cable didn't come with the correct driver for Windows 7 or it hasn't installed correctly. Did you install the driver that came with the cable on the CD, before plugging it in? First you need to install the driver package off the CD and then plug in the USB cable and have windows go through its hardware discovery and driver install before you plug it into the car and lauch VCDS. You even have to do this with the full version of VCDS which works fine with both 64 and 32 bit versions of Windows 7.

I would check the amount of memory in the Garmin UK version, is it enough to hold the Europe maps? Got caught out with a Tom Tom One UK edition quite a few years ago, paid 40 quid downloaded the Europe maps and then found it only had 256MB of memory and had to fork out for a 2GB SD card which I hadn't bargained for. Although SD cards are a lot cheaper now than they were then, but still worth checking.

When an active DPF regen is taking place the DPF light does not come on as the DPF is working normally and doesn't need you to change your driving style to assist with the regen. The DPF light only comes on when the active regen fails and the ECU needs you to drive the car at constant speed of about 3000 rpm to help it regen the DPF.

Yeah its normal, they put 10 electrodes on you in total (even though they call it a 12 lead - haven't managed to work that one out yet), including arms and legs. If you're a hairy bloke they have to shave little bits of hair off you too so the electrodes make contact. Have them done every year as part of my work medical. The modern machines don't even have a print out they log to a little black box that they plug into their laptop and view it on screen. Basically data logs the elecrtical activity in your heart over a short period of time from lots of different point in your body. The 3 leads and the beepy effort you seen on casualty is a cardiac monitor used by Critical Care staff to look for signs of a patients condition changing not an ECG test.

Mine's the same and I have a non-maxidot FL Octavia with factory fit cruise control. I think you only get the set cruise speed on the dash pod when you have maxi-dot.

+1 for the sticking VNT Vanes on the turbo. Think somebody attempted DIY cleaning on here in the past, but can't find the post, IIRC correctly it had piccies as well. Might be worth checking that hose again, maybe it came loose due to the overboost. Worth getting someone with VCDS to reset the fault codes and then do some logging on requested boost vs actual to aid in diagnostics before you shell out for a new turbo. As an afterthought could be a stuck N75 valve, does the MIL come on as soon as turbo spools up or does it give some boost and give up? Worth a look at the N75 though as will be a lot cheaper than a recon turbo.

According to Ross Tech Wiki, http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/17549/P1141/004417, its flagged when the MAF / MAP read different values to what the ECU expects. I would start by looking at the MAF sensor if I were you.

Yep, you're correct the PCI 2.1 32 bit card will work in the 64 bit PCI-X slot, it will just take up the first half of the slot rather than the full length that a 64-bit card would. I think some of our LSI logic SCSI cards are like this in our Proliant DL380 Boxes. One thing to watch out for if you are planning to run Windows 2008 on the new box is that not all of the older PCI Cards have driver support in 2008, you would be surprised at what doesn't work (3C905 Network Cards), some Adaptec SCSI Cards. Worth checking if your old card has 2008 drivers first.

1)Coming Home / Leaving Home: Depends whether you have auto lights and the auto dimming rear view mirror. If the answers is yes you can have automatic lights when you lock and unlock the car. If the answer is no, you can have manually operated coming home lights, which stay on for a period of time after you open the car door. In manual mode, you need to leave the light switch in the Headlights postion and flash your headlights before you get out of the car. Leaving Home lights that come on when you unlock the car cannot be switched on without the auto lights and auto dimming mirror. The time lights are on is configurable in VCDS too. 2) Cornering Fogs / Adaptive Fogs: Yes - 2 modes available, one operated purely by turning the steering wheel and a second mode where the lights will also operate if you indicate or engage reverse gear (both fogs light up in reverse). 3) Emergency Breaking Lights: Yes - 2 modes available, auto brake light flash or auto hazard light flash, 4) Other useful things are: Auto locking where the car locks itself when you go over 10mph and doesn't unlock unless you take the key out of the ignition. Car will automatically unlock if you crash or one of the internal door handles is pulled twice in rapid succession. Can also enable /disable locking beeps when you arm / disarm the alarm. Remote unlock operation: Open all doors when you press the unlock button, or just the drivers door and a second click is required to unlock the rest. I'm sure there are more but these are the main ones I can think of at the moment,