fionny

Hi, I guess that couldve fried itself alright. If i press the lock button in the car all the other doors lock not the drivers.. The window motor in one of the doors is still clicking away... I guess I will go to an auto electrician now and say that im relatively confident the issue lies in the drivers door unit.

Well managed to clean the connections and dry it all out sprayed with silicone grease etc... The windows now all work and the locks bar the drivers door works. However I can hear the windows motors going again now.... at least its a stop gap fix... maybe that whole box unit needs to be changed.

Well its deffo the box in the drivers door... I have the panel mostly off the door and as I was even touching the box the doors started going... then the windows went back up (after opening earlier today, luckily first dry day in ages) Right now just trying to figure out how the hell to get the plug bit out... seems quite stiff. EDIT: pried the latch back using a screwdriver handle as a level... pulled down plug... water poured out... problem identified.

Hi Paul, Thanks where is that do I need to take the inner panel off to get to it?

To be honest this sounds likely for me. Especially seen as the rain has been lashing down for a few weeks now here... Is it difficult to get to or just a matter of pulling up the trim? Any chance you might have a pic handy of what im looking for. Thanks again!

If it is the microswitch would that affect the windows etc... does everything route through it?

Thanks again folks!

Thanks, Ill take a gander this evening to see if I can spot anything funny.

My 2001 Occy VRS is driving me mad... no sooner did I finally get a MAF sorted and still stuck with a fault regarding Bank 1 Too Rich which my mechanic cannot figure out too easily, now the door electrics have gone haywire. It all seems tied to the drivers door and its intermittent... it started out with me noticing the immobiliser light was staying on when driving... then one day I got in to the car and could hear the front passenger door motor clicking.. another time it was the back passenger door. Then yesterday all the other doors stopped working... the drivers door unlock but the rest remained locked... the drivers window controls didnt work on any windows but its own... I opened my drivers window to let any moisture out.. only opening it a crack at first to make sure it would close again which it did... so I opened it a bit more but by the time I got home it wouldnt close... After slamming the door a bit (seems to help for some reason) and then leaving it a bit the drivers window closed. All the doors started working fine again then, but this morning once more I could hear more than 1 motor clicking when I opened the drivers door for the first time and also amusingly the drivers side back window opened itself a crack... (I was able to close again thankfully) My instinct is that its moisture related as there was a bucket of water inside the windscreen yesterday and I also suspect that seen as it all triggers when I open the drivers door it might be originating there? I also noticed that when I pulled off the boot panel (as that motor had been sounding sick for a while) the hose onto the rear washer pump had fallen off which explains why it wasnt working (i thought the pump had died) and I realised I must have been spraying the lock with water when trying it? Any idea's? Fortunately the other electrics such as radio fans and more importanlty lights all seem fine. Thanks,

I got the MAF off ebay, bought an offical part from a scrappers... will do the job for a while... saved myself 80GBP Wonder would it be vacumm / breathers for my car too, given I dont have an rev issues.

No the car drives just fine to be honest I did have a faulty MAF before which caused some revs issues but thats sorted now.

Annoying... would a garage with VAGCom get a better idea?

So finally got an offical VW MAF for my car reset the fault codes... the ASR light went off and I drove around 100miles without any fault coming up... then today the dreaded engine light is back on: P0172: System too Rich (Bank 1) I have no idea what part to look to next? Anyone help out? Thanks, Fionn

So turns out the new MAF wasn't playing nice.... mechanic put my old MAF back in and the low idle emissons (and high idle too) went away but it then triggered a lambda sensor error which wasnt their with the newer MAF.. So it seems both of them are faulty... or dont play nice with the car... I think i read here somewhere that non genuine MAF's dont play nice?

Spoke with my mechanic, he reckons its possible that as its only on the low revs it failed it could be a misfire spitting fuel in the the catalytic converter.