iansblackvrs

Hi everyone I have an Octavia 2 vrs 2012 not sure exactly if its the newer style facelift etc but its the one with drl s and front fogs at the bottom and weird sidelights that dont work...wired up but don't light. Only the drls go dim when you put side lights on. I need to get access to the rear parking sensors so I want to lower the rear bumper but not drop it right off. Anybody know the screw locations etc ? I cannot get access inside the boot as the bulkhead is solid but if I remove the plastic panel where the toolkit and warning triangle used to live I can see the sensors. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance

I have this function on a 2012 octavia vrs. Yes the 501 front side lights are not wired up but cable is present on the bulb holders. I don't like the fact that the drl goes dim when side lights are on. Can the non working 501 be wired or connected so they work? At least we could put led ones in. At dusk the drls are poor and I would like some side lighting at the headlamps.

Hi guys I've just upgraded from a mk1 AUQ Octy 1.8 to the above. It has a factory alarm. I know according to the manual it works on volt drop and interior sensors near the interior light. Does anyone know if it has a shock sensor and is the sensitivity adjustable? The only reason I ask is where I live my @#$*€¥ neighbours hit my old car 8 times and didn't own up. Once they completely smashed the drivers door in resulting in me replacing the whole door. There was no alarm on the mk1 and I'm not worried about theft as such. I want to know if someone reverses into my car again. I'm an electronic engineer so I can retro fit a shock sensor easily with adjustable sensitivity but do I need it? I haven't resorted to kicking the tyres as yet. Any help would be much appreciated cheers Sorry forgot to add it's still under manufacturer original warranty so I cannot invalidate it by messing with the alarm. Anything I add will be removable and probably plug in to the cigar lighter.

Cheers for that Steve, I guess I'll put it on ebay. That will teach me to check part numbers first eh

Hi folks I have the Octy mk1 vrs with the AUQ lump in it. A while back I bought a replacement headlamp but not realising it is the type without the fog. Mine have a H4 main headlamp with a H3 bulb in the glass dome fog next to it. The headlight I bought does not have a fog H3 bulb and is blanked off with a chrome fog dome and no bulb access at the back. My useless replacement is the OSF drivers side orig part no. 1U2941018N I now have the correct one but I am stuck with this and may put it on fleabay etc but does anyone know what Octy this non fog version fits? I thought all mk1 models had the fog built in. Can anyone shed any light (no pun intended)or does anyone want this one ? PS it's brand new in box. Ive never seen any Octys with fogs in the spoiler

I have this on my Octy vrs its the business and I went for the twin 3 inch pipe

Its made on a bit of veroboard and plugs into the cigar lighter to run it so not permanent. Not sure if it would work on bulbs as they switch on and off quite slow as the filament warms up. I only did it as a challenge and will probably never use it unless the D.O.T approves it for emergency use only

You are right it would possibly be dangerous to use it on the road and it is illegal to have moving lights on a vehicle unless its an emergency one. If anything you could only use it for hazard use or show cars. Its a plug in unit that goes into the cigar lighter so not permanent and I only made it as a challenge. Just to see if it would work, and it did. My mot garage works on the principle of the brake light must be brighter than the tail light and the indicators have to be bright and the correct colour. Do not make the mistake of buying amber leds as they are actually orange and the wrong colour.My leds are YELLOW and the colour is about 590-595 nanometers. This is the correct colour and the same as the coloured 21 watt bulb. The bulb has orange dye on it but it lights up YELLOW the same as the leds on an AA or breakdown truck. An amber led will light up the same colour as a RAC van which is wrong. Its a complicated thing and can get you in trouble. The ebay and Halfords ones are ok and legal(just) but they are dim. When I tested my indicators I had a bulb one side and leds the other to compare them and my leds were brighter than bulbs. The technology gets better all the time. You only have to look at traffic lights these days. PS something to make you laugh...when I filmed that on Friday night I forgot to remove the blu tak blank number plate and drove home. Could have had the wrong outcome and people following me probably were baffled

Each one of my indicators has about 30 5mm leds in it and they are packed tight like sardines or they are too fat to go in the back of the light unit. Trust me it wasnt easy and took months of (in the dark) testing and much cursing.Then there is the problem of indicator hazard relay fault mode which makes the bulbs flash fast.A 21 watt indicator sucks about 2 and a half amps at 14v engine running and the current sensing in the relay warns you of a blown bulb eg flashing fast. My indicators each draw about 180 mA so less than 1/10 th of the original so the relay did flash fast. I bought a new one from Graham at Jorily and modified the old one so I had a good one in case I f**d up. What I had to do was open up the hazard relay and change the flash speed so it flashed slower in fault mode. Technically it is in fault mode all the time but running at half speed.So if I put filament bulbs back in it will flash about once every 2 seconds much too slow so I have 2 relays, one for leds and one for bulbs. The hazard/indicator switch is plug in and takes 30 seconds to replace.I have a full set of lights front and back which came from a breakers. It would be easier to mod the whole light unit and just put leds on a board inside them and do away with bulbs. To make mine I had to get an old blown bulb and smash the glass off and glue my leds in place of the filament. It may have cost a fiver each for parts but in labour terms and all the cursing it probably cost me about 100 quid per corner.It really isnt worth the hastle but I guess I had too much time on my hands back then. These days the poor car is lucky if it gets washed twice a year.

I wouldnt make kits as I dont want to be responsible for any damage etc. The original exhaust had a twin pipe back box which I liked the sound of but it perished. There are not many brands available for the 1.8t and I had a hell of a job finding a replacement as I dont like the original oval pipe. The standard system cat back from Skoda was about 400 quid but I bought a complete cat back stainless steel system from Piper which was about 350 quid when I got mine but they guarantee it will outlast the car.They do a range of tailpipe options including oval, twin or big bore single. Funnily enough I just searched for it on the net and if this link works take a look. It fitted straight on with no modding needed even on the bumper. Incidentally mine is pipe option S twin 3 inch http://www.piperexhausts.co.uk/piperstore/product_info.php?cPath=464_465&products_id=4333&osCsid=66iitfflfmmch06kc8jjdjqeg1

I can do if anyone wants it. I did mine on a bit of veroboard with a lead that plugs into the cigar lighter to run it

Yes I stated in the youtube description that it's illegal in the UK to have moving lights on a vehicle but I thought you could use it for hazards. I also stated that I could do them in blue but then I really would get in trouble lol. I dare say some might use this or sequential indicators on show cars. I could use the same circuit to flash the main headlamps but then the boys in blue would definitely have a word.

Yes I am in the trade but the flasher parts are dirt cheap. The chips are about 20p each but each led indicator cost about a fiver each to make. But they will last and they have been in use for years and pass MOTs

Hi everyone, I am a bit of a newbie when it comes to blogs and posting info but does anyone like the following youtube vid. I am an electronics engineer and I make gadgets all the time so I thought I would try this. Read the youtube description first

Mine did this for ages Octy vrs AUQ engine. Ignore the secondary air pump..that causes other problems not related to yours. Take off the throttle housing and give it a good clean with Wynns carb cleaner and a soft toothbrush, theres many guides on here to do this. Guarantee this will cure the cold start running problem. Needs to be done once a year. Crap buils up around the throttle butterfly and it blocks the air flow. Hold it up to the light and look down the barrel, you should see an even ring of light coming through around the butterfly like a halo. This air flow is your cold start/choke on etc so the air flow is critical. Ignore the scare mongers regarding disconnecting the wiring to the throttle motor, as long as your ignition is off and key OUT you will not have a problem and you can wedge the throttle butterfly open with a piece of wood or a paint brush handle so you can clean around the edge of the choke flap. Use cotton buds dipped in carb cleaner. Just dont let it spring shut on your finger. Trust me it will be like a new car again.Ps as a last resort try looking at the coolant temperature sensor, the 4 pin green one is 059919501A....a 2 minute job to replace and this can cause the cold start idle to run funny as it thinks the water is hot so it changes the fuel mixture and makes it run lean/ you want it running rich when the water is cold.