netgeni

Oh ok cool.. i guess ill have to buy vcds :-/ I have an old Chinese cable from a few years ago but not sure if ill be able to run that test with it. Do you know what options I need to select to run that test. Guess I should have paid more attention when replacing the led's I did put the needles back to the positions they were in but guess i moved them a bit to much when I took them off. Thank you for the advice though much appticiated!!

Wonder if any one can offer any assistance. The led on my speedo dial went out wich was a little annoying. So had a quick look about and thought well its easy enought to do. So quickly wipped out the unit stripped it down replaced the white LED's put it back in the car. And the dials are out of alignment... argh! Maybe a little silly on my part assuming they would re calibrate when you put the ingition on (swing back and forth) Is there any way that I can do a calibration on them :-( Had a look about but cant find anything on this issue..

Cheers CookieMonster - I will check for play etc So I found this.. How to remove the turbo from an AWX engine Also some other nice bits on there!!! http://elsaweb.spagh...7.89/21917884/3 Maybe of some help to me and others...

:( yep time to get dirty again!! Any tips on removing the turbo ?? I think I will stock up on cleaning products and have a good cleanup, intake etc.... (egr is filthy so I guess the rest of it is bad too) Any suggestions apart from the mr muscle.. and load of carb cleaner I guess.... ohh and the other halfs toothbrush lol

I was thinking that’s the next thing to check... The turbo! I was going to do that at the weekend but didn’t have enough time after trying different things. Checking the pipes, removing erg and intercooler (not that easy) I believe it is a variable vein turbo but need to check, which is not that easy! It’s getting dark by the time I can get round to doing anything in the evening "There are posts about using Mr muscle cleaner to clean it with the turbo still on the car” I think I will have a look at the actuator (For any play etc) and probably end up taking the turbo out and cleaning it. It’s a bigger job but probably a better result than trying to just squirt cleaner into it (Also not sure if it can be done like that on this engine) Not sure why I don’t get any error codes. Should the car not go into limp mode? I would have thought that the car would know if there is too much boost being generated and tell me to go to the “Workshop” Thanks for the input guys!

Ok so connected the actuator pipe back up and took it up the road it felt ok (engine runs fine sounds ok etc..) until the pipe came off it again. Not the end thats now screwed in but the other where the connector is good.. (little ear things) so there must be something causing it to produce to much boost for the pipes to hold or there is a blockage some where... So has any one got any ideas what i should do now??

Gonna give it a little run later and see what happens!!! If i dnt blow it up ill go and get one and see whats going on... Any ideas on the best place to tap into on these?? Done my 1.8T golf years ago will have a look at thatto refresh my memory...

Thanks for that! Maybe I am being a bit paranoid lol. Just don’t want to damage anything after hearing that initial noise. Maybe I will just try it and see what happens.. Then get a new hose....

Can u confirm for me.. It looks like i get compressed air coming out of the EGR bit (top left on my engine, where the diaphragm is) running round the top of the engine then down to the right into the intercooler round the front of the car and into the bottom of the turbo. AWX pd130 is this correct I thought it should be to other way round or an i just beeing silly again haha Cheers!!

Yep I took the whole thing out, inc the L shape pipe at the bottom (not the long metal one that runs the full width of the car). I was just wondering how compressed air runs around from the turbo, intercooler egr etc.. From what I read is seems the compressed air flow should be going the other way from what I am seeing in my car.. but that doesn’t make sense lol.. so I must be missing something.... petrol vs diesel ?? maybe I read something wrong Ie. the air is drawn into the turbo from the main air filter then pushed out to the intercooler then into the intake. is this correct?

Well I noticed that the lugs had worn out on mine (turned the pipe round and it would blow out the other end) one large self tapping screw done the trick lol My only concern now is when I rev the engine hard the pipe swells right up (really scary!!) I didn’t dare drive it like that in case the pipe exploded!!! Not sure if that is normal???? The compressed air flow was going down this pipe into the top of the intercooler so I took the intercooler completely out (looked very clean for a car that has done 240k) to make sure it wasn’t blocked or something!! Why would there be so much pressure to make the pipe swell up?? I took the vacuum hose of the actuator (seems that stops the pipe swelling) but drives with no turbo (very slow) The engine sounds ok so I don’t think it has caused any damage. Can any one explain the way the turbo system works on this car so I can understand what is going on

Thanks for the reply's I will check the pipes over the weekend but I dont think its that. I have the pipe that keeps blowing off tyed up with cable ties and it isnt coming out now. The problem is even now there is no boost from the turbo and as i heard a metallic sound (like a bit of metal flying about in the engine bay) I am a little worried to drive it in case i cause more damage.. The car runs fine no smoke sounds ok etc.. just when I drive it the turbo isnt working... Sloooooowwwww lol I was thinking if its easy enought to inspect the turbo ?? Ill have a look to see if any thing is damaged. I have no error codes or lights on the dash so I dont really have any where to start from..

Last night I broke down but not sure to what extent the damage is so looking for some input if possible. I Pulled away from a set of lights (road works on a country lane) and a felt like I hit a wall and a great big bang then the car sounded like an aeroplane taking off. I couldn’t stop as there was about a mile of traffic behind me and the road was down to a single lane. I continued to drive with floods of black smoke pouring out of the car there was a period just after the initial “explosion” where there was a metallic sound as if there was a bit of metal bouncing around. I pulled over a 1/4 of a mile up the road (nearest place) had a look under the bonnet the intake pipe from the intercooler had come off!! (bottom right) I managed to get it back on and started the engine and it sounded ok so I revved it up a little and bang the hose flew off again and it sounded like a jumbo jet... So I found a bit of old string in the bush and tried to strap the pipe in place but it kept blowing of as soon as I applied any pressure to the engine. So the other half came to collect me and brought some cable ties with her so I strapped the pipe in place nice and tight!!! This time it didn’t blow off. So thought I would chance driving the approx 4 miles back to my house. The engine sounded ok but there was very little if any boost (get a slight pull but drops of straight away if any) I have no error codes or warning lights nothing that would give me any clues as to what is going on.. So questions... Why would the intake pipe from the intercooler keep coming out (not falling out blasting out with a bang!) would a faulty turbo cause this? Why do I have no turbo (does the sound of metal I heard mean it has broken up inside) How easy is it to take off and have a look at it. Any other ideas would be helpfull. It is a superb I AWX with 240k :0)

All fixed !! Silly me, when I done the re wiring (water problem)I left two connections as they looked ok at the time.... I was unable to let the carpets completly dry out as the car is in constant use, I thought a couple of days would be ok sadly not! I had a lot of water under the carpets and 98% is completly dry now except for a small patch righ above the two joins I did not repair(front part by the ccm. On top of that where I strapped the loom completly up I left a small gap in the tape geuss where?? yep in the same place as the two joins lmao typical So there you have it. Learn from me if you get the water ingress issue and some of the connections look ok just re-work them any way, saves having to come back. Dont for get to tape it up nice. no little gaps.....

Im having an issue with the internal swiches on the drivers door (fuel filler cap and boot lid, not working!) Done all the usual checks swiches look good including the lock swich for the key. Removed the motor for the filler cap and that works fine out of the car. Has any one got any ideas where the central locking control module is on this car?? might be worth having a look at. also if any one has had this problem or can assist in any of the wiring I can check that would be great. Done all the usual water issues some time ago but no change to the boot lid switch not working (this was not really an issue). But now the filler flap has stopped working I now have to fill it up for the other half and it becoming a pain.......

I had a little issue the other day with the superb and thought I would share it. You dont know some one might have the same problem and have no access to vag com.... So I have a superb pd130, driving it round Hanger Lane roundabout (A40 london) and suddenly the accelerator dosent work and the car is idling just above 1k the warning light flashes up and also the glow plug light :( I roll off the roundabut and find a nice safe place to pull over without upsetting any other motorists, turn the engine off wipe the mess up from the seat and breath lol.... I started the engine and all was fine again. Thought it might have been a bit of a glitch and drove it home and it seemed ok. But when the misses drove to work it done the same thing three times on the m25. and the same in the everning. So out came vag com and I got Errors 17664 engine temp sensor 18047 accelerator position sensor 17569 manifold temp sensor 17564 manifold pressure sensor 17849 egr valve So got a new temp sensor(green one, old one was the black one) and a bottle of pink coolant. Replaced it took all the intake pipes off cleaned them up a bit. Gave the egr a clean up with a bit of carb cleaner same goes for the map sensor. Put back together and spanked the car about for 45min thought job done. Misses takes car to work, on the M25 and it does the same but without the glow plug light coming on. vag com shows up 18047 accelerator position sensor So £55 from dealer but two days to get it in. I cant wait two days so I thought I would have a go at cleaning the switch inside the pedal up. Its an easy job: take the bottom part of the dash board off (bit under stearing wheel) remove cables ie odbII and light 3 bolts and disconnect the connector on pedal. The pedal will come off with the electrical black box . Took the top cover off the top of the black box (becarefull It has to go back in the same possition look at the position of the screws!) got some electrical contact cleaner and a cotton but wiped the tracks on the PCB not to hard just a bit to take the shine off them. Put back together. A week has gone by and no problem touch wood (if it changes ill update post on how long this fix worked for) Interesting for some hopefully and not so for others.... Good luck.... Update 24/09/20010 Still working fine...

Ill agree with you on that one. What the hell were they thinking when they made that loom its like they kept forgetting bits and just adding a bit here a bit there....... Maybe they took it from a two door vw polo and tryed streaching it, as it broke they just connected anouther bit or wire lol....

When my rear door c/locking failed I was lucky (sort off didnt need to open the door) it was down to the pollen filter leaking and corroding the loom. Might be worth checking the wiring before you take a crowbar to the door...... I did read somewhere you can try and open and close the c/locking with the remote and pull the internal handle at the same time or banging under the door handle from the outside wilst unlocking and locking with remote. might also be worth a try. Dont know if you can take the door card off with the door closed doubt it but some one might know.

Dont remember mine feeling like that mine seemed to be ok to drive but just bad vibrations and noisy maybe its not the flywheel then what.?.? it just seems funny that its not doing it all the time. I keep thinking maybe they messed something up when changing the clutch but hat would mean it would be doing it all the time. but then i think the dmf is prob bad due to milage, putting a new clutch in wont help. Maybe ill take it out tonight and see if it will play up and pay proper attention to what it does maybe take a video or something... Thats what you get for saying "I have managed to get the car all sorted" somthing will always go wrong.

Yes I know mate was thinking that my self before I got the clutch replaced. TBH I thought they would have told me once it was all out if it looked bad. I was planning to have a look myself but as i was at work I didnt get chance now iam regretting it and I should have told them to just replace it at the same time.. If that is where my fault is then its my own fault for beeing a tight ass lol What do you think do the flywheels sound/feel that bad when they go ???

Seems I may have now been cursed by the DMF problem. Question How bad can it sound when it goes? Can it be intermitant? Can putting a new clutch in make a bad flywheel worse? would it be ok to drive? Is there any way to test it? Had clutch changed on saturday and now it is intermitantly making a very bad noise and vibrating I thought they had not put the clutch in properly but it pulls well and is ok most of the time I am assuming it would have some bigger effect than an intermitant one. It has happend from just starting it up, whilst driving, in traffic, with the clutch down out of gear in gear etc??? It seems to almost shake the whole car you can feel it through the clutch pedal, gearstick even the stering wheel and it is loud sound like some one is under the bonnet with a drill. Does this sound like the DMF could be faulty. It has done 196,000 on origanal clutch, flywheel etc....... Garage is going to have a look saturday the boss said maybe its somthing loose possibly plastics. I think he will change his mind when he actually sees it (hopefully it does it when he looks at it). Any input would be helpfull.

I have managed to get so much great information from this forum its nice to think that I have been able to give a little back. I hope you manage to get it sorted and if I can help any more feel free to ask.

My lights were the same as yours "no front interior lights and the 2x adjacent map lights, no vanity mirror lights, no puddle lights", all the rear lights worked also for me and the little red lights but the passenger side puddle light still worked on mine It may be a case that the connections on your loom were not connected very well the blue wires at the rear on mine just fell out as if they were not connected at all !!! If I were you I would physically check the wires I mentioned really it sounds like a lot of work but if you just want to check them out it will prob take you an hour max to open it all up. Remove the silly VAG tape look for the plastic plugs make sure you remove them fully and check there clean you can push the plugs back on after then roughly rap it back up. 1 x philips screw driver 1 x large flat blade screw driver 1 x 13mm socket & ratchet 1 x roll of insulation tape 1 x 1hour of time Atleast that way you know the loom is 100% good then it maybe the control module (I had loads and loads of water and my module was dry as a bone inside!) Trust me I think you will be suprised its not going to be the bulbs or any thing like that if there has been no water then the control unit should be ok. It could just be dodgy VAG wiring oxiditation/moisture .

Nice one thats the next thing on the to do list. Hopefully get it done before it rains to much.. Dont want it flying off when the other half is flying down the A41 / M25 its a silver one so be on the lookout and keep your distance when its raining lol ........ Cheers for the tip Rotodiesel

Thanks for the input. I may try to tap a new thread (not done that before so something new to try) The conical part is fine the wiper is still on tight at the moment its just the threaded part that sticks up thats snapped. "quicker and cheaper to repair" sounds good to me at the moment. Just have to get hold of the right tool is it expensive do you know? just had the clutch replaced and pockets are feeling a bit empty lol.