blackspaven

Will see over the course of the week as the weather looks pants! Should be a good test.

Will probably do a sealant fix in time but in the meantime I'll try using some small oval two core jammed under the card, same type used with the old radio plug cord, quite small, cheers tilt. Can also see how punching a few holes right through the rubber would work too so it just drains straight out. Would the holes in the rubber not close/crimp when the door compresses it?

Edit: should have read that link FlyFisherman put on, but nice to think I'm along the right lines if that's what I wanted to do!!

Lol, I understand what everyone's saying... now. So in summation, SlowNick cut extra holes in the rubber door seals, NOT the doors themselves, which is what I thought it read hence the rust comment (thankfully, not the only one so I'm not that big an idiot!), and Tilt has effectively put wedges in between the bottom of the door card and where they meet on the rubber seals so that the water flows down those newly created areas instead of sitting up on the top of the inner seal and overflowing. Correct so far?? Couple of questions then: 1. Where did you cut the holes SlowNick? 2. Do your plugs push the door away slightly and that's what leaves the gap for the water to run down and out, and if so does it create any noise from outside as that's partially what the seals are for? 3. It's only 3 or so screws, 5 minute job to get the door cards off... what's people's thoughts about just running a bead of sealant around the metal frame that's rivetted in underneath the card and hold all the working gubbins? If it was screwed instead of rivetted, I'd be tempted to undo and silicone it up so it squashes togther but wondering if I can do that and just put screws in where the rivets are at the moment? Thoughts?

Ooh, brave, hope you don't get any rust issues.

Hi guys, Whenever it hammers down, I get a water leak on both sides of the rear footwell, slightly worse on the driver's side, and can't quite work out how to stop it. I've pulled the trim off and just drive around with the carpets slightly up and paper down there to avoid leaving with soaked underlay, and allegedly it's been discussed on here loads that the door cards leak, but I'll be buggered if I can find it, can anyone help?! Whenever it's rained hard, the top edge of the bottom of the inner door seal is wet on top and there's water in the lip that folds over and I guess is meant to prevent ingress. Obviously, once that's breached, the water can go into the footwell and the carpets just underneath/behind it. Also, the bottom of the door card has a few drops on it generally when this happens, but wondering if that's a leak there or if capillary action caused by the door being shut is a possible cause? The holes in the bottom of the door don't appear to be blocked. So, can door cards leak that easily and if so does this sound about right as to what happens? Without stripping it down and guessing, is there something that can perish in the door that's causing the leak and if so how hard is it to fix (I'm aware the inners are rivetted, annoyingly)? Had experience with VAG cars of them designing awful water protection for the doors so wouldn't surprise me. Hope you guys can help?

Cheers guys, all sorted. One scan cleared it, said something about improper voltage I think and another about the detonator. I'm thinking now that I might have taken it all out to dry the carpets (joy of a sunroof!) but put the seats back in temporarily to drive with just the metal chassis without carpets, hence the ignition wasn't turned the last few times I've done it. 👍🏻

Sent to ecutuning, fault found, back in the car, lights off. Lifetime warranty on the unit now so hopefully that's sorted it. 😊

I've worked how to perform alchemy too. That's all I'm saying. 😁

Anyone experienced this happening??

Yeah, fingers crossed. It was previous experience which is throwing me.

Had quite a bit of water ingress a last week so took my passenger seat out to dry the under carpets, obviously the airbag fault light cam on the dash as it wasn't there to sense it, but I've just put it back in and it's still lit. Positive I've done this before and it's just gone out/off when you clip it all in, does it sometimes need a clear on vcds like some other faults or do people think it could be worse and therefore more annoying and expensive?! 😕 Checked the connection, Can't get to a reader until next week, can't see what else it might be and it'll annoy me over the weekend.

Car is going to a local ext week for the abs ecu to be sent off for repair, and they use both so can specify either if I like... What are people's experiences, good and bad? Personally, heard ecu can sometimes do a bit of a dodgy sales bit once they've checked your part, but equally, after thinking they might be better, bba have a horrific trust pilot rating but not sure if that's for the UK franchise... Can't ask them as they don't answer their phone though. 😕 Heard good things about both as well, just wondering how skodaites have found them...

Car is going to a local ext week for the abs ecu to be sent off for repair, and they use both so can specify either if I like... What are people's experiences, good and bad? Personally, heard ecu can sometimes do a bit of a dodgy sales bit once they've checked your part, but equally, after thinking they might be better, bba have a horrific trust pilot rating but not sure if that's for the UK franchise... Can't ask them as they don't answer their phone though. 😕 Heard good things about both as well, just wondering how skodaites have found them...

How have you managed to get what sounds like the same or very similar car as the op at such a hugely increased value? Makes me. Feel good about how much my l&k might be worth.

Can that code possibly be a sensor problem as that's what skoda guess without looking, surprisingly?

Ta, that's what I thought looking at the pics beforehand but wasn't sure. Is it possible just the pump can fail then or are they calling it all that as a generic term you reckon?

They've said about 5-So, the Xmas tree lights have come on my dash and it's showing the 01130 implausible signal fault which clears but comes back about 15 miles later (twice now). Had a garage recommended by my one man band mechanic cos it's who he sends it to for ecu stuff, they cleaned a bit of corrosion on the fuses and thought it might be that but wasn't. They said if it didn't work they're pretty sure it would need the ABS pump changing, of which they said they send off to be rebuilt. Couple of questions... Are the pump and ecu module two totally separate things or all one unit, as I'm aware of ecu rebuilds but know little of the ABS system, just don't know if they're calling it something different to what I've been reading but in reality it's the same thing? They've said about 5-7 day turnaround... Does that sound about normal for a pump rebuild cos it means being carless possibly for a fair while? Apart from being fleeced for a fortune by the dealer, just not sure what to expect when normally I've got a fairly good handle on what things are and how much they should be costing to fix. Cheers.

And never did!

My 2008 L&K has just popped up with this 01130 fault. Local mechanic cleared it, but came back about 20 miles later. Any thoughts, and if it's a new module does anyone know if it's an easy local mechanic fix or is it a dealer job, and thereofre how much are they likely to spoon me for?? 🤔 Would the G201 failure show up independently, and therefore would it be obvious and hard not to see at the same time as the 01130? Was literally the day I was taking it in for it's MOT... should have gone the day before! 🙃

Previously Ridgeway before the buyout. I have no idea what the sales side of this is like but wiht the exception of Jon who is very knowledgable and excellent, their service side is now one of the worst I've ever dealt with!! Used to be run by a guy called Jason who was very helpful & friendly, but now he's been replaced with a lady who obviously tows the company line and doesn't have a clue what she's talking about as well as underlings who are pretty rude. I phoned to ask about something in my service manual to which I was told they didn't know and I would have to ask SUK. Knowing what a chore this can be at times, I asked them if they could do it for me, the customer, and get back to me. They outright said they would not do that. I tried to complain to the head of service who had an attitude of she's worked in VAG for 7 years and therefore there is nothing that a customer knows more than her despite being pulled up on a few things she couldn't answer. On top of this, I was in Garland in Aldershot a few weeks ago waiting for some work to be finished on my Octavia and got chatting to another newer octy customer. Said he'd driven from the other side of Reading to Aldershot because it was his next nearest dealership because when Marshall took over they had lost his service agreement in the IT switchover and despite him having paperwork to prove it had been taken out pre-buyout, they refused point blank to honour this paperwork in front of them!! He was furious but came across as fairly inexperienced with cars so simply didn't know what to do which is why he'd just conceded and ended up 20 miles away. Would now not touch this place with a bargepole, atl least for anything servicewise other than parts and that's as long as Jon is doing it, so if you do, good luck!