eddies

problem sorted . Fuse # 29 in the fuseboard beside A-pillar was faulty. 12v supply now restored to MAF sensor and P0102 fault code cleared with Elmscan 5 interface and OBD Wiz software. Thanks

My 2008 Tdi does not have 12volts on pin 2 of the MAF plug (Black with green stripe wire)but it does have 5 volts on pin 4. I traced the wiring down to the main harness and it headed back inside the car ....BUT where it goes from there I have no idea. Does the 12v come from one of the many pins on the ECU or somewhere else. Haynes manual does not show this detail. A friend looked up Autodata 2007 but again no detail on where the wires go ....just the pins in the MAF and the voltages that should be on each pin. A wiring schematic of the sensors or just the MAF sensor would be appreciated if anyone has one out there to share please? Thanks in advance Fault code is P0102 (MAF) with engine management light on........but car is still running fine ....not in limp mode.

I am using V-Com 409 ......can you point to the menu to erase learned values Thanks

I read somewhere that when you replace an injection pump, or replace an engine (inc. Pump) on a VAG car that you have to reset the pump electronics with VAG COM.... Does someone on the forum have the procedure available as I cannot find it on Ross-Tech or Wiki? Thanks

It is not that difficult a job - but you will need a helper, trolly jack, axle stands, spline keys, and approx. 4 hours min. as you have to disconnect the drive shafts. I had to remove the drive flange on the driver's side of the gearbox to get the box off the engine...even though others say you can do it qithout removal. The drive flange is held on by an allen screw in the middle of the flange. Also this car has a DMF and they give trouble - so you may want to change to a solid unit or replace with a new DMF rather than have to do the job again in teh future.

I took apart the starter motor and greased up teh gears in teh small gearbox between teh motor body abd the nose of the starter itself. Job took approx. 30 minutes total. Fix the problem with my 110 bhp TDI. Cheaper than a battery ..worth a try.

I removed the starter motor, split the motor body from the solenoid / pinion assy by removing the two long screws, popped the plastic cover off the small bearbox that sits between the motor body and nose of the motor, lubed gears with grease, re-assembled and since then ...no probs starting the car.

Fixed by lubing the gears in the starter motor instead - all working well since then Thanks for the help

Removed starter motore, and greased the gearbox between the motor body and starter pinion. Car starts without problems as the cranking RPM must be high enough (supposed to be 260 RPM) to allow injection to commence.

I was having start problems when my TDI was hot.......possibly because of slow cranking speed as advised above. My starter started to make an odd noise when it dis-engaged, and a fellow mechanic saidad it was dry gears in the motor assy. Removed the starter, took out the two long screws that hold teh saay together and pulled (gently) the freont off the motore body. The gearbox cover (plastic) was pryed off and the four gears inside greased up inc. the plain bearings. Since I did this no more starter squealing when it dis-engages and the engine starts no problem when it is hot...

You can cheat (short term) if you have an old key by tying it up behing the trim around the key barrel.....to trick the immobiliser ....and use the un coded key to turn the ignition on and start the. VAG Tacho would probaly allow yopu to recode keys using the diagnostic port on the dashboard RHS.

:)Reading through the Octy 1 forum I found information about HOT STARTING problesm with Tdi 110's due to a requirement to achieve 260 RPM during starting before teh injector Pump will allow fuel into the engine. Is there a way to modify this parameter using VAG-COM or other to get around this problem?

Weak signal is typically caused by the wiring from the keyswitch to the instrument cluster. I repalced this with a piece of "twisted pair" cat 5 phone cable with a foil shroud around the twisted pair of wires. The tricky part is opening the connector from the back of the instruments to repalce the cables into the pins of the multi-pin connector. Fixed the problem for good.

The doors can self lock if the micro switch on the back of the door lock mechanism breaks or goes faulty. Important to fix as you can easily get caught out when it self locks!!

Suggestion...... 1) Buy a cheap generic VAG COM cable from ebay 2) Download the (V409) shareware software from ross-tech & check that it works for you 3) purchase the "software only" product from Ross-Tech as this will allow you to code extra keys 4) Go to your "friendly" locksmith or local diagnostics (non-dealer) garage and pay them a fee to retrive the 4-digit Security Cide using their Immo Code Readers. that way you don't have to figure out dash type / cable vagtacho versions that may or may not work with your Make/model/year of car ?

Had a similar problem that turned out to be the switch on the back of the wiper motor assy which stops the motor at the PARK position. Because the mechanism was faulty the motor would over-run the PARK position and keep running. I replaced mine with a motor from an old Mk 3 golf I had lying around

No difference with temp sensor disconnected. Mileage does not appear to be as good as it should be so I suspect the injection pump may be faulty / worn.....so I may have to take it to a diesel pump expert.

A friend's car overcooked the electrics due to a faulty alternator regulator. Had to replace Battery, Alternator, ECU and the radio. No fuses blew. WIth the new ECU in place (50 euro from breakers yard) and teh \lternatro replaced the car would turn over and start............run for about 2 seconds and then quit. This last probelm was sue to a mis-matched Immo. The dealer (did not have VAG COM) charged 70 euro to recode. SO it's woth buying V-C just for this functionallity.

Torx screws hold on around the perimeter of the door card. You will also need to pry off the cover from the door grab handle - it pushes directely on to the door handle main section and is held at the top and bottom. With this off you can see two large Philips head screws at each end of the handle which need to be removed as well. Lastly there is a small philips head screw that holds the door card which is in the araea where the door release lever is mounted. WIth all removed - pop the door card out at the bottom and then push it up to release it from the window edge. You will then be able to access the door release cable and disconnect this from the the door handle. Torx bolts x 3 hold the regulator / mechansim to the door. When you lower the window mechanism you can see the two 10 mm clamps that grip the mechanism to the window glass.. The mechanism is normally the piece that fails on mark 1 octys

The top rubber is probably shot. Took a strut out of older scrapped OCTY to see how to install a replacement rubber.....but it looks like I need spring compressors as the assy has to be taken apart to fit the new top rubber part. Not sure about the bearing part.

I would pop the mirror glass off first and check that you have power going to the heated mirror connections first. Could be just a faulty heating element in the mirror glass. Replacements available from GSF for a reasonable price.

I have replaced a few .....use a knife CAREFULLY to remove the badge which is stuck on with adhesive. I sourced the aftermarket part from JHM Butt (Bawtry) www.jhmbuttco.co.uk

When replacing the bottom arm on my year 2000 Octy Tdi I noticed that I could move the strut up approx. 25mm. I did not take the strut out of the car. How much play should there be in the top mounting?

Unfortunately did not have VAG COM back then .......DAMM the deal sure knew how to make a killing !!! I will know next time I come accross this

Removing and installing cylinder head Don't have a Haynes Manual for this car - BUT FOUND THIS LINK ON THE WEB. Thanks for all help