raedalbandak

Good morning, I have a 1997 GLX Felicia in Jordan since 2005. It is a hatchback with VIN "TMBEEA614V0433588". Mileage right now 272200 Kms. Extras on car not found on 1997 LX models: Front fog lights. Central locking. full size wheel covers. Velour seat covers. Better quality and nice looking door cards upholstery. RPM tachometer. 1/3 to 2/3 split folding rear seats. Door mirrors housing color match car body color. Dashboard, center console and door cards on my GLX are in dark blue. I noticed that many GLX models have them in light grey. Major Parts I changed during the past 10 years, cost and job difficulty: Steering rack (Not power assisted), old rack needed major repairs and rattled a lot. Got a decent used rack for a moderate price (36 Pounds). Average difficulty but a tricky DIY job for novice DIYers. Rear wheels brake cylinders, old ones were ok but suspected minor brake fluid leakage. Cheap new ones (12 Pounds for a pair). Easy DIY job. Brake Master cylinder. Old one gave up which caused pedal to reach the floor when applying the brakes and found out the cause was one worn piston of the two pistons and a worn cylinder interior surface. Cheap new part (14 Pounds). Easy DIY job and you need to renew the brake fluid which needs care not to spill too much and time to get rid of all air from all wheels brake cylinders and pipes. Water pump, old one bearing seal finished and coolant leaked continuously. Got a new pump for a moderate price (42 Pounds). Job difficulty is above average and takes time. Cooling circuit radiator, old one had many leaks. Got a new one for a moderate price (36 Pounds). An easy DIY job and recommend renewing the engine coolant too. Distributor. Old one dead. Got a new original one which was expensive (107 Pounds) but it proved cheap on the long run because I tried 2 cheap quality distributors (Chinese and Turkish brands) before buying the original one and both failed within 1 month. An easy DIY job.

The only thing that comes to my mind right now is weight reduction. Just empty the boot from everything including the spare wheel, tools kit and remove the rear seats (Very easy Job). If you're in need for even more acceleration, get rid of the passenger's seat too, the floor mats and carpets, door cards, radio and rear parcel shelf.

I do not think it will be seized. Just get the car started and please take a video of that to share with us here. Can't wait to hear the good news

A pretty interesting task to do and keep us posted with what happens with the car. I am sure you won't have much trouble starting the car following the tips that our friend RicardoM provided but I also recommend to do the following in addition to the above tips: Change the spark plugs with new ones. Check the fuses and relays in the fuse box and make sure it did not develop any corrosion or is not damp or wet. replace damaged fuses and relays etc... disconnect the HT lead feeding the coil and check it is completely dry and corrosion free. Check the condition of the distributor cap especially for corrosion. Crank the engine a few times while the coil HT lead is still disconnected to allow some oil lubrication especially for the camshaft and end bearings and oil passages. Pay attention to any weird noises, knocking, metal grinding etc... Good luck

Glad to hear the good news. I agree with you regarding changing brake oil every two years. Four years ago, I changed the rear brakes cylinders, the Master brake cylinder and renewed the brake oil with ATE DOT3 brake oil (No ABS on my car so no need for DOT4) and the braking was amazingly effective and the brake pedal feel was like brand new :yes: . Old brake oil was black just like engine oil.

Really can't link your issue with brake effectiveness difference to a single cause. to start, what are the front brakes readings? is there any difference from front right to front left effectiveness? if the front left is significantly less effective than the front right (opposite to your case at the rear) assuming everything is ok at the front brake calipers, I guess it is related to the Master brake cylinder; more specifically to the piston that feeds brake oil to the front left and rear right inside the master cylinder because the brake circuit layout type on a Felicia is (X) type also called diagonal circuit (Master cylinder has 2 pistons each feeds a brake piston at the front and another at the rear that are on opposite sides of the car). Another probable cause maybe uneven shoe pad thickness at the right rear drum which is a result of one of the shoes jamming or having limited movement therefore the drum's brake cylinder pistons will favor pushing one of the shoes more than the other (the easier to move). This reduces brake effectiveness between both rear wheels. I agree with you needing to check the rear pistons movement but maybe you better start with easier checks first. Good luck

Answer to first question: if the handbrake is correctly adjusted, one only needs to pull the handbrake lever (3 clicks) for effectively applying the handbrake. Answer to second question: raise both rear wheels at the same time, release the handbrake and check that both rear wheels turn easily by hand, then pull the lever gradually (one click at a time) and check that both wheels lock at the same click at the same time by trying to rotate them by hand after each click.

Hi all, I had this problem twice and in both cases. It was a faulty "stalk" "lights lever" whatever. I removed the lever and opened its connectors box at the end. It seemed in both cases that the cause was loss of contact from its internal copper things that switch on low and high beams. It is because of age and the spring action between low beam and flashing the high beam. Try turning on the main and dip switches with ignition on and then pull very slowly and lightly the lever towards you as if trying to flash the high beam but not enough to flash it. If moving the lever using this way turns on the low beam then your problem is as I described above.

We all should be proud of our little Felicia cars

Hello again, Just wanted to check what coolant brands, grades or pre-mixtures this forum members use for their Felicia 1.3L engines. I found that using the blue HEPU P999 concentrate mixed with distilled water (30%concentrate:70% distilled water) gives very good results in terms of protection from scaling and dirt-build up in the cooling system. Also, it is cheap. I renew the coolant every two years.

Can't decide, I used the Haynes method for many years but just out of interest, what does valve overlap mean and how can one reach it by turning the front wheels? Thanks in advance

Hello Fady and welcome to Briskoda I guess from your post that your car is multi-point fuel injection model (Engine code: 135M), right?

After fixing the mixing issue, the engine is serviced with new engine oil and filter, driven for like 2 to 3 days then it gets another fresh oil and filter change. This worked as far as I remember and nothing happened thereafter with that tough peugeot

Hello, from what I have seen before in our old Peugeot 204, after the mechanics solved the mayonnaise issue for good, my dad flushed the cooling system several times including one flush with a flushing liquid on the market then. As for the lubrication system, he idled the engine with the oil cap removed to let the remainder of the water evaporate as heat builds up inside the engine. IT WORKED

I will check tomorrow and come back, can not right now for its so windy and snowing here in my country