theo_k

...a year later I have the exact same thing. Was it your window regulator at the end?

did not see this earlier, not sure who you are aiming your question to but this is for mkI Octavia. We usually change our exhaust manidfolds either because the stock ones have small runners or because the after market ones with the long runners crack. Mine was cracked open like a rose. Hope it helps

Thanks mate, I should have taken a before pic to see how bad it was (from body shop), I never thought I would manage something like that. The entire fleet?!?! I still havent finish mine, driver's door and fender still to be done

After wetsanding with 1500 and 2500 grit, then meguiars 105 and 205 with DA machine. And M21(sealant) for the end by hand. This is the boot right next to the license plate. Have a look at the bottom right hand corner, you ll see part of the stop light.

Thanks mate. It is 34.

Funny thing... I have bought them twice from different places but they dont fit, apparently they are too big, also apparently the original product code no longer exists anywhere. Hence the question if you have them

do you have the clips that hold the centre plastic trim at the very end of the headliner, right above the rear passengers heads in the middle? Have a look at the picture attached. They should look something like that: http://www.vehicleclips.co.uk/skoda-plastic-trim-clips-for-headlining-roof-lining-pillars-interior-trim.html

despite having found the correct picture of the clip on an online etka, when I search for the code it shows me the wrong thing. https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/octavia/oct/2002-252/8/867-867055/#34 I am looking for number 34 in the picture, which is the clip. However when I use the code provided it just shows the blue circle clip which I do not need. Can someone help? The code I get out of ETKA is 1U0867280 , but like I said, it is not the clip I am after,

No worries, 3B0 951 223 thats the high one. There are more clips in the front pillars for sure. Thanks and let me know when you can

any luck with the clips? also, do you have the the high horn? ( I have the low one)

Hi, I am after the clips that hold the centre plastic piece that holds the headliner at the very back in the middle, above the rear headrests. Are they available?

I used this one and it worked fine for me: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brake-Break-Caliper-Piston-Rewind-Hand-Tool-For-VW-AUDI-GOLF-SEAT-FORD-UK/142383406747?epid=1440739718&hash=item2126b65e9b:g:6KcAAOSwpbRZ4L1i just make sure it complies with your car. The one I posted above, is just for reference. It is cheap and it gets the job done. Once you have it in your hands, you will work it out, no big deal

so far I did some reading but did not find out costs, people are talking with ball park figures. On the other hand the drive-ability is a n issue that need to look into... but again, not great details on setup, tires, etc. Someone hit a nail in the head when they talked about reducing the weight, that I totaly agree. But the rest was a bit like "even with LSD it is still not driveable" which doesnt really mean a lot. I ll carry on the reading though buddy, thanks for your reply

hi guys, I have read other forums about what needs to be done to get a car to 400-500bhp, the immediate answer yes I know is rods, pistons, fuel pump etc. I read many posts but not one of them that gives a full list of parts needed. So I want to attempt writing a list of parts/mods needed. I will be updating the list along with prices and links if that post remains alive and busy. So I am looking for any guys in here than actually have gone past the 400bhp mark, just want to hear their setup, what they should have done and what they should not have done. And in general how bad or good the car is. For example I read that you can go to 500bhp with stock valves as long as you dont rev over 7200, that means a turbo with a/r 62. I made a list of things needed for the 400-500bhp setup, this one is slightly on a budget so I will have to buy as less parts as possible - not as cheap as possible. E.g. internal w/g turbo, no need for an external. Feel free to comment if you think I need (or dont need) something else. Turbo - 3076/3071 internal w/g (so no need for an external) Pistons - 81mm drop in Piston rings bearings conrods - 19mm drop in (rifled or not?) BOV 007 - can this be used on a Big turbo setup with a red spring maybe? large Intercooler intercooler piping spark plugs custom intake without MAF ECU programming (Rtech or badger 5 or anyone else?) 76mm full exhaust CAT 100 CPSI Sytec fuel pump (will it fit the stock pump housing?) Injectors (880cc?) Exhaust Manifold (SPA) 20V non-turbo cams (or can I use stock?) ARP bolts 10W60 oil Transmission Quaife differential DMF or SMF? Will the G60 that I have be any good? stock & current parts to remain on car stock inlet manifold AUM/AUQ stock valves and valve trains etc stock crankshaft stock fuel rail R8 coils metal impeller water pump changed nearly 60.000 miles ago 996 Turbo calipers + R32 334x32 discs Rear VRS break set up KW Var II suspension stock compression ratio 9.5:1

...right when I thought I got this! I ll do some research and maybe I will ask again, thanks again though

thanks mate, have to be honest I had no idea. I am guessing the right order to bleed those if you are doing all of them, is to start from the furthest caliper, then leave the ones shown above for last, is that right?

can you please post a picture with circled the bleed valves on the brake master cylinder? Some of us are daft...

What power did you get out of it? Do you also have rods?

hey guys, what about AET hybrid K03s? I am struggling to find some feedback/reviews on them.

I have that issue and it looks really bad. It is called clear cote failure. What I am planning to do is wet sand the roof, get rid of the clear cote, go down to the paint. See how the paint is, then maybe Meguiars Ultimate compound, then clear lacquer K2, 2-3 coats. Then wet sand it to make it smooth, then Ultimate compound, then wax, then seal. sounds soooo easy

surely this is a Passat

it seems as if this thread died, can I just revive it for a bit... I am after either a used K03s or a housing. Question is, if I get a housing, will it be fairly easy to change it my self once the turbo is out? I found this one on ebay... any thoughts? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/K03S-Turbo-Turbine-Wastegate-Housing-5303-970-0053-06A145704S-K03-1-8-20V-180BHP-/321867196743?hash=item4af0c7a947:g:xA8AAOSwiLdV-VRy

part numbers used: N0444115 M8x30 threaded pin - the one that is on the block N90357201 8,4X17X4 Washers N90200201 M8 copper nuts 058253039L Gasket found everything on ebay apart from the washers.

I am sure the answer is no but do we need to apply any bonding agent between the gasket and engine block? Also, I had issues with the turbo screws and then someone suggested to use M10 high tensile 12.9 hex/allen, I did and never had an issue since then. To be honest maybe a couple of times I tightened it and then it stopped coming out. One more question, should I just change the 4 screws from the downpipe as a good measure? Or just leave it as it is?

I swapped them around but nothing change. I swapped injectors around but then again nothing changed, always cyl2 or 3 misfiring. Now the car has gone nearly a week with the green spring and all the settings lowered with SPS3, car is totaly different and will only misfire if I go very hard on it. Before it would misfire very easily. Green spring plus untightening the waste gate means a lot of the gases now can escape properly and in return the pressure is lower. But thanks for your inputs. When I change both mani and coils I will update this thread.